(i posted this in the wrong forum before by mistake, sorry, it should be in the correct place this time....)
Ok, so I'm looking for some help with installing this system in my car. I'm not a pro so I'm not 100% sure what I'm doing. Not really looking for criticism, i know the two brands aren't top of the line, i was just looking for some help if you've got it.
I have two Audiobahn AW1200Q 12" subs both rated at 700RMS and 1400peak (by Audiobahn). And I have a Power Acoustik SL-3400D amp rated 1400RMS(@4ohms which i plan on wiring subs at) and 3400peak (by P/A). I know they're probably both over rated but I hope that they'll still work out.
I'm trying to figure out what kind of setup i need to do and I have a couple Q's. My first question is wether or not my electrical system can take these. I'm sure I'll have to upgrade a few things. My alt is just a stock 90amp alt and my bat is a basic 12v. I haven't wired this at all so i don't know how this will pull on my electrical system. I'm wondering what you would suggest to make sure my car's not going to get sucked dry. Should I go for a better alt or bat, or would a nice size cap be enough?
Another question is about the wires themselves. What gauge wire should i use? I've heard both that the wire size is based on the watts and on the amps. Which is right or better to base it on? And what size would you suggest? Is a 2awg good enough or should i go for the 0awg? Also, what size fuse would you suggest?
I'm sure there's more I'll have to ask but I think this will give me a start. Thanks a lot.
atsand wrote:
(@4ohms which i plan on wiring subs at
Aren't those subs single voice coil 4 ohms? If so, you will be wiring them for 2 ohms. Post and let the forum know the coil configuration. But even if so, it doesn't really matter if that is a mono amp, and the model number with the D on the end makes it appear to be so. It would handle a 2 ohm load. Look at the wiring app to the left under "woofer wiring", enter your sub type and you will get diagrams to choose from.
What are you doing about an enclosure for these subs?
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Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.
the subs are dual 4ohm vc's. i've checked the wiring choices and i'm going with the 4ohm option instead of the 1ohm. the 1ohm would be too much from the amp.
as for the box, i haven't gotten that yet. i'm actually waiting on the amp and subs to come in still. i'm thinking of just buying a ported dual box. i'd do a custom box but i go back to school this weekend and i don't have the stuff there to make it.
Okay that wiring for the subs. The amplifier will thank you in the long run by performing at its best that way.
If you go with a premade vented box you will likely end up with about a 2.5 cu ft box tuned to 40 Hz. Sound will be extremely peaky at ~60Hz and will be difficult to enjoy. The most you could claim with this setup is loudness. I suggest you look for a sealed box for these subs as they model best for a sealed enclosure. Size is important, so get one that has, at a minimum, 3.5 cu ft. I'm sure somebody makes a dual box that size that is solidly constructed. Look at the construction: it's important that the box is built with 3/4" MDF, not particle board and not thinner. A major bonus, and an important consideration, is that the box is built with internal bracing.
Your gear can be set up to make a really good sounding sub bass system. Couple that with some attention to the main speakers, mains amp and source unit, and you'll never need to apologize for your choice of brands.
Make sure your car's battery is new or almost new. A three year old battery is at life's end. You'll need some basic upgrades to the car's electrical wiring...see the Big Three sticky above on how to approach that. The alternator will let you know if it needs to be upgraded. The symptoms of power starvation will clearly show when you are running headlights and music system at the same time. Capacitor - no use for that.
Use this site's extensive help section found over to the left in the blue column. You'll find a section on power and ground cable requirements. With that you can select wiring and fusing.
With all that, buy damping liner too. There will be sections of car sheet metal that will literally groan and rattle when bombarded with high level low frequency tones. Quieting the car's body will make the system louder and sound much better.
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Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.
thanks a lot for the help. this should be enough to get me started. when everyting's here and put together, i'll post an update. thanks again.