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which two subwoofers with 2000 watts?

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=91672
Printed Date: November 26, 2022 at 3:33 AM


Topic: which two subwoofers with 2000 watts?

Posted By: ct34hale
Subject: which two subwoofers with 2000 watts?
Date Posted: March 13, 2007 at 6:36 PM

I have a class d amp that is 650 rms @ 4ohms, 1300 @ 2, and 2000 @ 1.  I was looking at getting 2 fosgate 15" power series stage 2 subs, because they will work in a ported box with 2.3 cubic feet of air space per sub and also because I see I can get them on ebay for around $350 each, but now after reading comments on various post on different sites, these subs don't sound like such a good choice.  I want to wire the subs so that I get a 1 ohm load.

I have been looking at jl 13w7's also, but the cost for 2 is kind of high in my opinion.  I have read some favorable comments about resonant engineering xxx model subs, but wow what high price.  Also, have read some comments in support of adire brahma subs.

What I would like to know is what 2 sub combination(can be other brands) would give me great sound quality and high spl using 2000 watts and not a huge amount of air space, if I decide to compete?

Thanks!




Replies:

Posted By: ferretvw
Date Posted: March 13, 2007 at 8:38 PM
First of all is this a true 2000 watt amp by a reliable brand? if not then more often than not you may get 500 or so watts out of it a quick way to figure it out is to multiply the fuse in the amp by 14.4 then multiply that by .8 this will give you a realistic rating based on 80% efficiency of the amp (I know someone will have an issue with this but I'm just being quick). Then before deciding on subs if this is a real 2000 watt amp your current draw on the car could be up to 150 Amps or so This is quite a large load which a stock charging system will have trouble with you should look at upgrading the big 3 (do a search here to find out what that is) and also look into a high output alternator to keep up with that current demand.

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2008 Scion xB
Pioneer AVIC-D3
RF 3Sixty.2 sound processor
Stock speakers (for now ;))




Posted By: aznboi3644
Date Posted: March 13, 2007 at 11:02 PM
IMO....more realistic is taking the total fuse X 13 X .8

14.4 is hard to keep stable without some heavy upgrades




Posted By: haemphyst
Date Posted: March 14, 2007 at 12:47 AM
Also, are you REALLY looking to compete? If you were, you'd be willing to give up VAST amounts of space - (generally) necessary for huge output, especially with two woofers and "2000" watts. (What amp did you say it was, again? Audiobahn?) 4.6CuFt is a "not a huge amount of space" enclosure to you? In a '92 CIVIC!?! Did you know that the difference in output (SPL) between 2 ohms and 1 ohm will be less than 3dB? Did you know that 3dB is a barely discernable difference in either lowering or raising a system's output? By making that amp work as hard as it can, it's whole life, it's not going to last nearly as long. It will run hotter, it will make more distortion, it will have less control over the woofer cones by virtue of lower damping factor. Are you wanting vented enclosures? I see that you are... This'll REALLY come into play there... You want the DF to remain as high as possible.

Also, if you're gonna compete, you're gonna HAVE to get an HO alternator.

Just my two cents!

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It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."




Posted By: jmelton86
Date Posted: March 14, 2007 at 2:03 AM

What kind of amp did you say?



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2013 Kia Rio -90a alternator
DDX470HD GTO14001 GTO1014D (x3)
Big3 in 1/0G
1/0G to GTO14001




Posted By: ferretvw
Date Posted: March 14, 2007 at 4:26 PM
Good call Azn 13 is probably more realistic.

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2008 Scion xB
Pioneer AVIC-D3
RF 3Sixty.2 sound processor
Stock speakers (for now ;))




Posted By: ct34hale
Date Posted: March 14, 2007 at 9:54 PM

It is a Hifonics Brutus 2006D, which from all reviews I have read on sound domain, it does output what it claims to in wattage at each given ohm rating.

My other 2 amps are a PPI pcx2200 and a PPI pcx480.

Thanks guys for the helpful comments!





Posted By: arrow12
Date Posted: March 14, 2007 at 10:03 PM
I don't want to be a a nay-sayer, but I don't think that Brutus amp puts out 2000 amps.  I am not saying it isn't a good amplifier, but Hifonics amps don't always seem to put out the described power.  Well atleast in my experiences.  The give you a good bang for the buck though.

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That's my opinion. Take it, leave it, or correct me.




Posted By: coppellstereo
Date Posted: March 14, 2007 at 11:46 PM
how much do you want to spend?

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Posted By: aznboi3644
Date Posted: March 15, 2007 at 3:45 PM
yeah Car Audio Mag revieved the Colossus I think and said it does put out rated power....AT ABOVE 10% distorion. But at 1% distortionit does not put out rated power




Posted By: ct34hale
Date Posted: March 15, 2007 at 7:02 PM

I really don't want to spend more than $1200 max on a pair of subs, but really I would perfer something of good quality for under $1000.  I will go with one sub, if you guys can convince me it is good quality and will move a lot of air?

Also, I have an Audio Control DQXS digital processor, so I am hoping it will help me talor the sound to achieve a good quality setup.

Thanks!





Posted By: arrow12
Date Posted: March 15, 2007 at 8:25 PM
The Image Dynamics ID MAX12 is a nice sub.  Two of those would both require about 2000 watts of power total.  You can get 2 of them for under $500 a pop.  Those are definitely not to be over looked in the SQ department.  They get pretty loud too.

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That's my opinion. Take it, leave it, or correct me.




Posted By: haemphyst
Date Posted: March 15, 2007 at 10:43 PM
Never to be overlooked, take a gander at the TCSounds stuff... AWESOME sound quality through the line, with better efficiency and power handling as you step up in the models. You'll not be able to find ANYTHING better for the pricepoint, either.

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It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."




Posted By: caraudioguru
Date Posted: March 16, 2007 at 8:10 AM

Actually to calculate current draw of ANY amplifer in ANY system simple take Total power X 2 (assuming a Class A./B amplifier) divided by DC volts (lets use 12 as we haven't t measured anything yet.)

So it would be 2000 X 2 /12 =333 amps.  If you are using a Class D amplifier than take that number times 0.7 (for 30% better efficentcy) which is 233 amps of current draw, full power at 12 Volts DC.  And that is just for the sub amplifier.  Add you other amps in.  You'll REALLY need to upgrade the alternator in this system.  Otherwise you cannot get full power continously (peaks, yes)

And adding capacitor(s) will NOT help as they don't do what you think they do :)  And fuses don't protect what you think, and don't work they way you think they do.

Physics.  Gotta love it!!



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The more you know...the less you know




Posted By: haemphyst
Date Posted: March 16, 2007 at 10:06 AM
caraudioguru wrote:

Actually to calculate current draw of ANY amplifer in ANY system simple take Total power X 2 (assuming a Class A./B amplifier) divided by DC volts (lets use 12 as we haven't t measured anything yet.)

So it would be 2000 X 2 /12 =333 amps.  If you are using a Class D amplifier than take that number times 0.7 (for 30% better efficentcy) which is 233 amps of current draw, full power at 12 Volts DC.  And that is just for the sub amplifier.  Add you other amps in.  You'll REALLY need to upgrade the alternator in this system.  Otherwise you cannot get full power continously (peaks, yes)

And adding capacitor(s) will NOT help as they don't do what you think they do :)  And fuses don't protect what you think, and don't work they way you think they do.

Physics.  Gotta love it!!



Huh... never made the connection. Mr. Obvious? Thanks. You're a lifesaver.

The QUESTION at hand was about which woofers he should use. There are other places all over this forum regarding figuring the efficiency of amplifiers. I, myself, have a sticky.

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It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."




Posted By: Paradigm
Date Posted: March 16, 2007 at 3:46 PM
haemphyst wrote:

caraudioguru wrote:

Actually to calculate current draw of ANY amplifer in ANY system simple take Total power X 2 (assuming a Class A./B amplifier) divided by DC volts (lets use 12 as we haven't t measured anything yet.)

So it would be 2000 X 2 /12 =333 amps.  If you are using a Class D amplifier than take that number times 0.7 (for 30% better efficentcy) which is 233 amps of current draw, full power at 12 Volts DC.  And that is just for the sub amplifier.  Add you other amps in.  You'll REALLY need to upgrade the alternator in this system.  Otherwise you cannot get full power continously (peaks, yes)

And adding capacitor(s) will NOT help as they don't do what you think they do :)  And fuses don't protect what you think, and don't work they way you think they do.

Physics.  Gotta love it!!



Huh... never made the connection. Mr. Obvious? Thanks. You're a lifesaver.

The QUESTION at hand was about which woofers he should use. There are other places all over this forum regarding figuring the efficiency of amplifiers. I, myself, have a sticky.

Silly haemphyst...pining for the Bozo button again posted_image



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VEHICLE: 2002 GMC Sonoma ZR2
Alpine CDA-7940
AudioControl EQT x2
JL Audio 1000/1
JL Audio 10W6 (originals) x3
Kicker ZR120
Kicker ZR460
Polk GXR-6 x4
Polk GXR-4 x2




Posted By: ct34hale
Date Posted: March 17, 2007 at 2:16 PM

I was looking at the TC Sounds web site and I see that in the TC-5200 series they have an 18" sub that requires a ported box volume of 5^3 ft. or a sealed of 1.5^3 ft., those are some small enclosures for an 18.  Opinions; do you guys think 1-18in sub is a good idea or should I go with 15's or 12's even for my civic?

Thanks!





Posted By: jmelton86
Date Posted: March 17, 2007 at 2:21 PM
It still would have a smaller box than 2 15's.

-------------
2013 Kia Rio -90a alternator
DDX470HD GTO14001 GTO1014D (x3)
Big3 in 1/0G
1/0G to GTO14001




Posted By: ct34hale
Date Posted: March 18, 2007 at 9:57 AM

Wow, the LMS-5400 subs look like they would be kick azz.  I am curious though on the TC Sounds site, they show enclosure sizes for sealed, ported, and passive radiator.  I perfer ported boxes, but I am wondering how well a pr would work???

This series of sub look great too because for a 15 the enclosure requirement is only 2.2^3 ft ported and same with pr.  The 18 enclosure is 3.5^3 ft ported and same with pr; that is just incredible.  These subs are really power hungry though, 2500 rms.  I am wondering if I wire it so that my amp is operating at 2ohms, that will only be 1300rms, will it be good enough for these subs???

Thanks!






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