I'm looking into setting up the configuration of my amp and HU properly with respect to the filters and gains. I do not know which way is the best way. I'm not feeling the bass I think I should with this setup, and I don't want to say the amp is too small if it's just the way I have it set up.
Nissan '03 Maxima
Kenwood KDC-X689 HU (22 watts RMS)
RF Punch 450.2 Amp (450 watts RMS x 1 in bridged mode (4-ohm stable in bridged mode))
Two 12" RF Punch P212S4 (50-200 watts RMS) These are SVC.
-------------
The head unit has a few options on it,and the values I'm using:
SW Level: 11 (Max 15)
EQ: Bass +3, Mid +2, High +6
HPF (Front): 150
HPF (Rear): 120
LPF: 100
The amp has a
Gain knob: (no markings) I have it at 75%.
Frequency knob: 40 (40-400hz)
--------------------------
Subs were wired parallel from Amp + to woofer1 + to woofer2 + and then Amp - to woofer1 - to woofer2 -. This reulted in the amp cutting out and getting too hot. With this wiring, the amp should be at 2ohm, yes?
I just wired them from Amp + to woofer1 +, woofer1 - to woofer2 +, woofer2 - to Amp -. Does this wiring give me 2ohm as well? I didn't run it long enough to see if it cut out, I'm in my driveway...
Are these settings about what would be expected? I'm not sure about the HPF/LPF settings, does HPF limit frequencies above or below the value? What about LPF?
I just had a flash of bad omen...Crutchfield's site has the amp listed at 4ohm stable bridged...I don't think I can use this one in any 2ohm setting, eh? IS this the case? If so, if I replce the amp with a 2ohm-stable one, are these settings still ok? Which of the two wiring schemes I described is better?
Thanks!
I can't edit a post? Forgot a
link for the subs.
Do you want more bass? You can use those subs with the amp. Simply wire one woofer to each channel. Set your headunits subwoofer level to 0 (to start). Now make sure the gain on your amp is turned all the way down (counter clockwise). Now turn the headunit's volume up to where you like to listen to it. Next slowly turn the gain up (clockwise) until you begin hearing distortion. After you hear some distortion, turn the gain back down alittle until the distortion goes away. Now your amp is set. From then on, you can simply increase the headunit's SW level, but chances are you will hear distortion so keep it at 0. Then listen to your subs and see if you like them. If not, then your amp isnt powerful enough. Now onto your frequency knob. Make sure you have the crossover to low pass filter. Next turn the frequency knob to about 200 to start. If you have it at 40, (which by what you have said) then you hardly have any mid to high bass going to your subs. Start it at 200. Listen to it and if you hear alittle treble going through your subs, then slowly turn it down until you only hear bass. That is basically what your amp can put out without including EQ's and external crossovers.
you will have to run those subs stereo off of that amp. if you bridge em, you will end up with a 2, or an 8 ohm load. 2 is too much for that amp bridged, 8 may be ok, but won't necessarily push the amp. stereo 4 ohms will probably give you pretty good sq, and should be ok for those subs, you'll have to try it out.
what kind of box- to mfgrs specs? also, how is it placed? i find that most boxes sound best (to me) firing back at the trunk, or down.
also, assuming all power wire, connections etc. are ample for your load(?)
frequency knob, i believe, is your crossover on the amp. if that is set at 40, then it should make no difference in sound if you change the crossover setting on the deck to 100- the subs will still only see 40 hz and below. i usually start my adjustments on low pass crossover at 80-100hz. that is usually a good starting point for twelves.
-------------
(4)g5-1244, (4)gtr12, (2)ppipcx2400, (1)pcx4125, (1)pc4800.2, (3) pair mb quart 6.5"Q, (4)optimas, alumapro (1)5 and(1)15 farad cap, premier deh-p860mp, pioneer xm -dual H.O. alternators
I don't think this amp is strong enough to run stereo...I got it with the express purpose of bridging for the higher wattage. I don't believe I didn't notice it was 4ohm only. I'll wire it stereo and see if it's worth anything, otherwise, I'm taking it back today. This is what I get for trusting the salesman to know what components go with what.
My wiring is ok, I'm runing 2 gauge everywhere.
yeah, if i was in your situation, i would opt for a mono-block amp and run at 2-ohms. if you can find/ afford a two channel that is stable into 2ohm mono (will probably be listed as "stable to 1ohm stereo"), then that will suit your purpose also.
otherwise, you are probably going to need an 800-1000 watt amp to get them to push at 4 ohm stereo-but the sound quality will be alittle better. just keep in mind that a lot of amps out there are overrated. just because you see a 2000 watt amp on e-bay for $100, doesn't mean it will sound any better than a $400 amp that is only stated to have 500 watts. a lot of companies are fudging the stats to look better.
-------------
(4)g5-1244, (4)gtr12, (2)ppipcx2400, (1)pcx4125, (1)pc4800.2, (3) pair mb quart 6.5"Q, (4)optimas, alumapro (1)5 and(1)15 farad cap, premier deh-p860mp, pioneer xm -dual H.O. alternators