subwoofer, what do i choose
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=92277
Printed Date: April 28, 2024 at 7:47 PM
Topic: subwoofer, what do i choose
Posted By: upzaw2000
Subject: subwoofer, what do i choose
Date Posted: March 29, 2007 at 11:07 PM
i am trying to find the best pair of 12 inch subwoofers that are under 250 a piece and can stay under a total of 1500 watts rms, i can find an amp fairly easily i just can decide on subs, i hear type r's alot but i dont know just yet. i just want them to hit hard as heck, dont really care too much about the quality of sound. i just want a huge punch!!!
Replies:
Posted By: sedate
Date Posted: March 29, 2007 at 11:20 PM
upzaw2000 wrote:
i just want them to hit hard as heck, dont really care too much about the quality of sound. i just want a huge punch!!!
Haha.
Your budget seems a bit high for this goal. If you really only care about punch, your actual driver choice doesn't really matter all that much. You need to be thinking about your enclosure. This is the critical componet for this goal. Besides, your guidelines for selecting a driver are so absurdly broad (>750wrms, >$250) that they literally fit 99% of 12's on the market.
What sort of amplifier are you considering? ------------- "I'm finished!" - Daniel Plainview
Posted By: upzaw2000
Date Posted: March 30, 2007 at 7:26 AM
if its 1000 watts then jl 1-1000 easily. if its will be higher than that then i would either go with a kicker block, or mtx block depending on efficiency, unless anyone has any opinions that differ. **obviosuly i will be more picky about the block other than just effienciency but i need to find subs first, obviously ohms, who makes it, the quality all effects my choice also and other things.*** i am not an idiot. Right now i am running two e12's (yes i know pretty weak) with a alpine m605 in a sealed box custom made for my car. i have had this set up for about 3 years now, it has been fine for me, but its getting real boring now. i dont wanna drop 600 bux on the big jl's i dont need anything that rediculous, i am not entering any comps or anything.
Posted By: aznboi3644
Date Posted: March 31, 2007 at 2:03 AM
upzaw2000 wrote:
if its 1000 watts then jl 1-1000 easily. if its will be higher than that then i would either go with a kicker block, or mtx block depending on efficiency, unless anyone has any opinions that differ. **obviosuly i will be more picky about the block other than just effienciency but i need to find subs first, obviously ohms, who makes it, the quality all effects my choice also and other things.*** i am not an idiot. Right now i am running two e12's (yes i know pretty weak) with a alpine m605 in a sealed box custom made for my car. i have had this set up for about 3 years now, it has been fine for me, but its getting real boring now. i dont wanna drop 600 bux on the big jl's i dont need anything that rediculous, i am not entering any comps or anything.
Blocks?? monoblock amps are just single channel amps...there are monoblocks that only push out 100 watts rms. Elemental Designs 9.1 amp is good...I just bought one. Very nice and has tons of power
Posted By: kfr01
Date Posted: March 31, 2007 at 11:53 AM
I'm always very confused by these sorts of posts that don't mention the box or the volume of trunk space available for a box.
The box and space available will have a large impact on (a) the subwoofers you pick, (b) the power you pick, and (c) any number of other important variables (efficiency, peak power, etc.).
If you are not interested in spending a lot of money on this project and you are primarily interested in "hit" over sound quality, I would direct my search to efficient 12" drivers well suited for ported applications in box sizes you have the space for. Alternatively, I would think about going with some efficient 15"s.
A good box and efficient drivers makes "getting loud" pretty easy in a car.
-------------
New Project: 2003 Pathfinder
Posted By: aznboi3644
Date Posted: April 01, 2007 at 1:40 AM
kfr01] wrote:
I'm always very confused by these sorts of posts that don't mention the box or the volume of trunk space available for a box.
The box and space available will have a large impact on (a) the subwoofers you pick, (b) the power you pick, and (c) any number of other important variables (efficiency, peak power, etc.).
If you are not interested in spending a lot of money on this project and you are primarily interested in "hit" over sound quality, I would direct my search to efficient 12" drivers well suited for ported applications in box sizes you have the space for. Alternatively, I would think about going with some efficient 15"s.
A good box and efficient drivers makes "getting loud" pretty easy in a car.
agreed...I had an old jl 15 W4 in a custom ported box I built...off of 300 watts rms it was LOUD
Posted By: sedate
Date Posted: April 02, 2007 at 12:04 AM
kfr01] wrote:
'm always very confused by these sorts of posts that don't mention the box or the volume of trunk space available for a box.
When I meet people that are into this stuff these days I'm not. The marketing machines surrounding this stuff have very successfully convinced the majority of consumers that big amplifiers and brand name woofers matter far more than basic physics questions like vehicle type or enclosure type.
I mean listen to this guy talk about the JL1000/1... he's clearly not looking carefully at the differences between the JL and MTX when it comes to things like input-voltage/RMS power and onboard xovers.
Yea there upzaw2000, spending JL1000 money when you just want some subz is really out of line. Here you say,
upzaw2000 wrote:
i dont wanna drop 600 bux on the big jl's i dont need anything that rediculous, i am not entering any comps or anything.
What? The JL1000/1 is a $750 amplifier, if you can find a good dealer, and nevermind the subs you want as well.
Listen there upzaw, that Alpine amplifier you have is actually *perfect* for your goals. Indeed, I imagine the 12's you have are probably quite serviceable as well. Your first step here would be to revaluate your enclosure and see if perhaps porting the 12's in a larger enclosure would provide you with the *omph* your looking for. If you post back the subs you have .. i don't know what an 'e12' is... we could help you design a proper enclosure with WinISD or another tool like that.
If you really want bigger/better subs, I these are *SICK* when paired to a few hundred watts in a ported box. Very reasonably priced too, eh?
Keep that amp you have you don't need a JL1000. ------------- "I'm finished!" - Daniel Plainview
Posted By: aznboi3644
Date Posted: April 02, 2007 at 12:12 AM
Sounds like he means the Alpine TYPE E subs....not e12s...that is incorrect
Posted By: coppellstereo
Date Posted: April 02, 2007 at 12:35 AM
Good call on the 13W1. They dont need much power or a huge box.
Ive never heard the type E subs in a ported box, but it is worth a shot. I wouldnt waste a 1000/1 on some mediocre subs meant to add a little punchyness w/ no regard to sound quality
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Posted By: upzaw2000
Date Posted: April 02, 2007 at 11:04 AM
Wow, wasn’t expecting to get the bashing I got, but I suppose it was deserved. I drive a 2006 HHR, I have a enclosed box 3 feet wide - 1.5 tall – and 1 foot deep at botton and and 6 inch deep at top. FYI the chevy HHR is a hatchback. When I say I want punch I am really just wanting a Higher SPL (at low hertz). I know car audio fairly decently, I don’t do installs for a living or anything but I know enough to get by. But I still need to ask questions. I don’t really wants a ported box because I am afraid that it will just be louder instead of just getting low hertz. Plus I currently have 2 bazooka 8’ subs hooked up also to a alpine 350 mono block (discontinued.) Those are open ported. SQ isn’t a big deal but if it comes in the package then that’s a plus. The alpines I have now have the ability to get “loud” at a higher hertz, but then they stop losing there use as a subwoofer and become just a really large mid-low speaker. The alpine 605 gives you great control over the subs, hertz and all but the alpine type e’s cant handle the lower hertz. Am I just talking crazy talk, is any of this making since??? I may be going crazy. trya nd help me out if anyone would, i am not here to look dumb and i am sure this forum isnt for that purpose. sry for not being clear enough i was in a rush before
Posted By: upzaw2000
Date Posted: April 02, 2007 at 11:06 AM
i was made an example huh, will fix later
Posted By: the12volt
Date Posted: April 02, 2007 at 11:16 AM
upzaw2000 wrote:
i was made an example huh, will fix later
?? -------------  the12volt • Support the12volt.com
Posted By: upzaw2000
Date Posted: April 02, 2007 at 11:41 AM
weird, i was looking at the post from work and it all looked like html srcpt and then sd a msg at the bottom that said, please dont copy and past from micrsoft word...... lol i dont know but it isnt showing up like that anymore.
Posted By: the12volt
Date Posted: April 02, 2007 at 2:46 PM
I fixed your post. Anyone that pastes formated HTML from Word into their post will see what you saw. Please do not repost your message. ------------- the12volt • Support the12volt.com
Posted By: sedate
Date Posted: April 02, 2007 at 2:50 PM
upzaw2000 wrote:
Wow, wasn’t expecting to get the bashing I got, but I suppose it was deserved.
I'm sorry there ace. I didn't attack you directly... pardon the assault on the neophyte question. I'm very helpful, just kinda smug about it. 
upzaw2000 wrote:
When I say I want punch I am really just wanting a Higher SPL (at low hertz).
Oh we got that part.
upzaw2000 wrote:
I don’t really wants a ported box because I am afraid that it will just be louder instead of just getting low hertz.
Right see that is exactly backwards. If you want subs to 'drop' then you *want* a ported box. If the enclosure is constructed properly, the benefit is not one of volume, the benefit is in extended bass-response. The port is tuned to a certain frequency, and that frequency determines the overall response of the speaker system... in the case of a sealed box you place a defacto 6db/octave slope on entire response curve, so you really *do* lose those low frequencies you're looking for. Only an improperly constructed ported enclosure will produce *less* low end than a sealed enclosure. Any given pair of 12's will have great low end if you stick them in a ~2.5 cft box and port it to 35hz.
upzaw2000 wrote:
I have a enclosed box 3 feet wide - 1.5 tall – and 1 foot deep at botton and and 6 inch deep at top.
You didn't provide enough information for this to be useful..i.e. telling us how thick the wood is that was used to build the box... and that is an awful lot of boring math to do.
upzaw2000 wrote:
The alpines I have now have the ability to get “loud” at a higher hertz, but then they stop losing there use as a subwoofer and become just a really large mid-low speaker.
The alpine 605 gives you great control over the subs, hertz and all but the alpine type e’s cant handle the lower hertz.
I'll tell ya what. If you go out and post a link to the owners manuel/pdf for those Alpine subs, I'll graph the subs for you in WinISD and show you some possibilities.
------------- "I'm finished!" - Daniel Plainview
Posted By: aznboi3644
Date Posted: April 02, 2007 at 11:19 PM
My friend had a couple of the older white cone Type E subs in a big prefab ported box and a Coustic 400DB amp...400 watts to those subs and they were banging..cept for the crappy high tuned ported box.
Type E's like big ported boxes..like 4-5 cu ft for a couple 12's
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