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sealed enclosure

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=92310
Printed Date: May 15, 2024 at 5:52 PM


Topic: sealed enclosure

Posted By: mansue
Subject: sealed enclosure
Date Posted: March 30, 2007 at 5:54 PM

If i wanted to make my own box how can i assure that it will be sealed? is there anything that i can put on/or in it?

Thanks.
mark

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Mark Tran



Replies:

Posted By: supradude
Date Posted: March 30, 2007 at 6:07 PM
I use Liquid Nails, and make your cuts straight. If this is your first box, and I assume it is by your question, make sure you build it to the specs of the sub you are going to use in it.

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'85 Toy




Posted By: aznboi3644
Date Posted: March 31, 2007 at 1:56 AM
I hate liquid nails...too messy.

Seal up all the seams with silicon caulk




Posted By: roo-dog
Date Posted: April 02, 2007 at 3:42 PM
  liquid nails will also add to the strength of the box.  silicone will only seal it. 

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(4)g5-1244, (4)gtr12, (2)ppipcx2400, (1)pcx4125, (1)pc4800.2, (3) pair mb quart 6.5"Q, (4)optimas, alumapro (1)5 and(1)15 farad cap, premier deh-p860mp, pioneer xm -dual H.O. alternators




Posted By: ra0062
Date Posted: April 02, 2007 at 8:05 PM
I use gorilla glue, it expands as it drys. It strengthens and seals. It's kind of a pain if you get it on your hands, and you have to sand it off the outside the joints. It's surprising how it can expand so much.




Posted By: DYohn
Date Posted: April 02, 2007 at 8:33 PM
Another vote for silicone sealant along every seam.  If your enclosure needs something like liquid nails to give it strength, it must be very poorly constructed.  IMO.

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Posted By: ra0062
Date Posted: April 02, 2007 at 9:11 PM
I always go to a lot of extra effort to make a box solid as possible. I always use dado, rabbet, or lap joints. I know this is all more than necessary, but thats the fun part for me. That way I can buy more tools and router bits.




Posted By: aznboi3644
Date Posted: April 02, 2007 at 11:12 PM
DYohn] wrote:

Another vote for silicone sealant along every seam. If your enclosure needs something like liquid nails to give it strength, it must be very poorly constructed. IMO.


agreed...your cuts must be pretty sloppy....with a clean cut and tight fit up...any wood glue will do perfectly fine and easier to clean up and finish.

Anyone here try to sand liquid nails before??? yeah not so easy




Posted By: stevdart
Date Posted: April 03, 2007 at 5:36 AM
Other considerations in making an enclosure:  mount the driver using foam speaker gasket, against the bare wood (not against carpet).  If using screws in the construction, also use glue.  Caulk wire openings all the way through the wood.

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Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.




Posted By: sedate
Date Posted: April 03, 2007 at 10:44 AM

I always fiberglass the inside of all my boxes.

I use 1/2" MDF (everyone always says use 3/4", I cannot hear a difference and extra weight and volume it takes up simply isn't worth the stuff), then, depending on the box size and what sort of power I plan on using, 2 - 4 coats of fiberglass resin all over the inside.  Maybe 3/4 ~ 1 liter of resin in total.

The Liquid Nail and Silicone and what-not are all fine and good, but I have to reiterate what aznboi said... Liquid Nail on the outside of your box is impossible to sand away and seriously screws up a paint job.  Really irritating stuff to work with if it starts seeping through joints.



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"I'm finished!" - Daniel Plainview




Posted By: aznboi3644
Date Posted: April 04, 2007 at 12:05 AM
for sealing the speaker I just go to lowes and pick up a roll of window gasket sealer stuff...I got some of the 3/4" stuff...covered the back of my license plate and the rattling there stopped.

Much cheaper and effective solution than buying the Dynamat "license plate" thing for 40 bucks or whatever...mine costs I think 3 dollars





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