easy way to add mid bass?

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to add mid-bass to my setup? I'm talking 100 hz or so. My idea consists of one 8-inch in a ported box right behind rear seat facing forward. Just a new idea, I think it would work but i'd like some input. (my subs are in the trunk facing rear) Thanks for any input.

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Clarion DXZ665mp,Lanzar 2000D,2 Powerbase Extreme 12",Pioneer 5.25" - TS-C503
JL Audio e4300,Fosgate Power 6x9,5 Farad Cap,2 Optima Yellow,205 Amp Alt

Get some midbass speakers and add them up front.

Bring the low pass x-over on subs up to about 90-100 hertz with shallow slope of about 12dB/octave and see what happens.

Adding dedicated mid bass drivers is a bit more complicated than one thinks. You will need a band passable dedicated channel of amplification, as well more processing for the current speakers. Essentially you will need to go to an active three way system. Do able yes, complicated yes, but try other solutions with your current gear first.

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dwarren wrote:

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Bring the low pass x-over on subs up to about 90-100 hertz with shallow slope of about 12dB/octave and see what happens.

Adding dedicated mid bass drivers is a bit more complicated than one thinks. You will need a band passable dedicated channel of amplification, as well more processing for the current speakers. Essentially you will need to go to an active three way system. Do able yes, complicated yes, but try other solutions with your current gear first.

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He didn't mention anything about sound quality or anything...so I suggested the easiest route..lol

It may sound like crap but will have more midbass lol

  yeah, i don't think you will get what you are hoping for out of 1-8".  and your crossover points will need to be adjusted, as well as more channels/bandpass crossovers to run the 8's.  it gets alittle more tricky when you go this route.  but, if you have time and $ to play with- once you get it all tuned out, it will sound much cleaner, and fuller.  you would be best to run a pair of 8's (or 6's) up front.  i have done just a pair of rear 8's bandpass before in my other car, and it did add alot and sounded great, but didn't put you "in the middle" like it does when they are up front.   

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(4)g5-1244, (4)gtr12, (2)ppipcx2400, (1)pcx4125, (1)pc4800.2, (3) pair mb quart 6.5"Q, (4)optimas, alumapro (1)5 and(1)15 farad cap, premier deh-p860mp, pioneer xm -dual H.O. alternators

Get some better 5.25" speakers -with good excursion- up front. Poly-bag them. This will probably do it.

1 8" won't do any justice either. You would need 2 8's to get stereo sound. You said you'd put the 8" behind you, facing forward? This would do no good for imaging in the first place...

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2013 Kia Rio -90a alternator
DDX470HD GTO14001 GTO1014D (x3)
Big3 in 1/0G
1/0G to GTO14001

jmelton86 wrote:

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Get some better 5.25" speakers -with good excursion- up front. Poly-bag them. This will probably do it.

1 8" won't do any justice either. You would need 2 8's to get stereo sound. You said you'd put the 8" behind you, facing forward? This would do no good for imaging in the first place...

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jmelt, you know what poly-bagging is also???

Not many people know what that is haha...it is too old of a trick from back in the day

Yeah, I actually heard You talking about it in a diff. post and figured it's about time I give some good info.  You don't like have that word copywrited or anything, do you?!

J

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2013 Kia Rio -90a alternator
DDX470HD GTO14001 GTO1014D (x3)
Big3 in 1/0G
1/0G to GTO14001

Most major improvement in midbass response will be achieved by doing a complete job on the front doors.  All areas of sheet metal with a layer of damping;  that is, both the outer door skin metal and the inner panel.  Mount the midbass woofers onto custom MDF baffles, not directly to the door.  Screw the baffle firmly into the sheet metal of the panel.  Seal that baffle and all other leaks in the door panel with duct tape and caulk.

Second, improve the front midbass drivers.  Move up to a higher quality grade of components with 6.5" mids.  Those 5.25 Pioneers are likely falling short of achieving a strong <100 Hz region.  With a strong output at near 80 Hz, the mids will blend with the sub output for the impact of front midbass that you are now lacking.

Third, and least likely of the three to make a difference, is to increase power availablilty to the front soundstage.

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Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.

Ok. so what exactly is poly-bagging?
Beah wif me, dis is aw pot uv twaining, danyo sun...

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Clarion DXZ665mp,Lanzar 2000D,2 Powerbase Extreme 12",Pioneer 5.25" - TS-C503
JL Audio e4300,Fosgate Power 6x9,5 Farad Cap,2 Optima Yellow,205 Amp Alt

Any suggestions of a good pair of 6.5" components without totally breaking the bank? I'm personally looking for a pair between $200-$500 but I'm sure there are more people like me who will read this.

I know "go around and listen to what sounds good to you" but I'm pretty sure if you like it, then it's good enough for me

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jettagli03,

Maybe I'm easy to thrill, but I picked up a pair of CDT's on a closeout special that I got a tip on from DYohn, who used them in one of his family cars.  This model uses the silk tweeter.  I've been happy with them for two years now.  My thing about damping all the metal in the doors and using a baffle for the mid mount goes with anything you use, though.  If I didn't do all the preparation, I can't say how I would like these components.  Oh, and I used the swivel mount for the tweeter instead of flat mounting them into a preselected space on the door.  A contour in the door panel allowed for this so that the tweeter still remained nearly flush with the mid driver.  It doesn't look like a cool finished piece of work like a lot of glass projects do, but it has allowed for some very fine adjustment of the front soundstage.

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Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.

That works. The only reason you didn't flush them in the door is cause you didn't know how you wanted them pointed? Very smart! Looks good.

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2013 Kia Rio -90a alternator
DDX470HD GTO14001 GTO1014D (x3)
Big3 in 1/0G
1/0G to GTO14001

jmelton86 wrote:

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Yeah, I actually heard You talking about it in a diff. post and figured it's about time I give some good info. You don't like have that word copywrited or anything, do you?!

J

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nah I don't care...tell people about it all you want...it is a cheap and easy solution.

To the OP...polybagging is making these yourself.

Do what Steve said about making MDF baffles...then use 1-3layers of plastic sheet...you can use big ziplock bags...this is what I'm using for my doors

Lay the sheets over the speaker hole and make a pocket...stuff some polyfill in there...you can cut a small hole for the speaker wire and seal it up with some caulk but is not totally necessary.

Then mount up the speaker and trim the excess sheeting from around the speaker frame...get the idea???

jmelton86 wrote:

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Yeah, I actually heard You talking about it in a diff. post and figured it's about time I give some good info. You don't like have that word copywrited or anything, do you?!

J

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nah I don't care...tell people about it all you want...it is a cheap and easy solution.

To the OP...polybagging is making these yourself.

Do what Steve said about making MDF baffles...then use 1-3layers of plastic sheet...you can use big ziplock bags...this is what I'm using for my doors

Lay the sheets over the speaker hole and make a pocket...stuff some polyfill in there...you can cut a small hole for the speaker wire and seal it up with some caulk but is not totally necessary.

Then mount up the speaker and trim the excess sheeting from around the speaker frame...get the idea???

Would it be better to use something that won't flex? I doubt the foam things crutchfield do too much. Is this a factor when doing this or does it not matter as long as it's 'airtight'?

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2013 Kia Rio -90a alternator
DDX470HD GTO14001 GTO1014D (x3)
Big3 in 1/0G
1/0G to GTO14001

Why do you want to do that? 

Dude I've used those XTC foam baffles in cars and they sound absolutely horrible.  They made the midwoofer get all tinny and totally attenuate the output.  Seriously those things are horrid.  I'm sure a plasic bag of all things isn't going to sound any better.  Those bags, however many you use, are going to move in and out like a lung... I couldn't imagine how weird that will sound.

Car speakers are NOT meant to be run in little enclosures of like 1/4 of a liter okay?  They're infinite baffle speakers designed to be mounted in a door with the airspace of a door.  Seriously, do what stevdart said about the MDF baffle and then LEAVE IT ALONE.

stevdart wrote:

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It doesn't look like a cool finished piece of work like a lot of glass projects do

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Are you kidding?  That install looks awfully clean and slick.  It looks like it sounds *great* ... I really like that angled tweeter to, it looks really cool.

Those are CDT Classic series comps eh?  I ran those speakers in an active setup for awhile.  They sound awesome like that.  Can't say I was too fond of the CDT passive xover though.. 

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"I'm finished!" - Daniel Plainview

Nice Stevdart. Im my Monte Carlo my tweets are on the A pillars and on the outside of the front seat rails pointed up and rotatable. SUPER WIDE STAGE!

Back on topic... If you want more mid-bass and want it up front (timing and all), as suggested, raise your crossover up. And to add try reversing the polarity of your subs. Might set your lower end right on the dash where you want it. You'll have to play with it though.

Dave

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David Fancher
USACi World Finals 2006
4th Place SQ PRO 601+