improper grounding causing other problems
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=93767
Printed Date: May 07, 2024 at 9:03 AM
Topic: improper grounding causing other problems
Posted By: caddy16s
Subject: improper grounding causing other problems
Date Posted: May 09, 2007 at 5:57 PM
Have any of you heard of improper audio equipment grounding ruining other vehicle (not audio related)components? I've got 2 L5 15's, a brutus 1600D, 6 kicker 6.5's, 6 kicker tweeters and 2 kicker 6x9's. the 6.5's and 6x9's are powered by a 1000watt 4channel. Now I have a small whining noise only with the engine on and the amps on, attribute this to ground loops. Im sure I can solve this thru checkin my grounds and getting better rca's and such. My problem is that my coolant temp sensor went out a month or so ago, I replaced it and now its gone out again after a month. I heard that ground loops in the sound system can cause some type of voltage (small amount, but still present) flowing through the coolant in the cooling system, and can damage the heater core and other things. Has anyone heard or know about this? Also any links or site where I can learn about it. ------------- 01 Lumina
2 L5 15's
Brutus Bxi1600D
Kicker Mids/Highs
Kenwood 1000 watt 4channel
Replies:
Posted By: haemphyst
Date Posted: May 09, 2007 at 9:25 PM
BS. What you described DOESN'T happen.
What CAN happen though is this: you are trying to pull WAY more current from your alternator than ANY stock alternator was (pretty much) EVER designed to provide. This could be (is likely) causing low voltage conditions, and the coolant temp sensor is (apparently) more sensitive to that condition in YOUR car than others.
With two instances of one sensor going out that close to each other, I'd REALLY consider looking into a high output alternator, and QUICK. You're trying to fry more than that next time.
-------------
It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."
Posted By: caddy16s
Date Posted: May 09, 2007 at 11:22 PM
haemphyst thanks for the reply. check this out though. The sensor was not working all day. I decide to turn off all my equipment. I have a 150amp breaker feeding the system instead of a fuse, so I switch this breaker off (which shuts the amps off and also kills the whining noise). I let the car sit for maybe 15minutes at the most and I start it up and the sensor is working again. I don't understand this. Do you think this could be attributed to the problem you stated before? Also I forgot to mention I have a 5 farad capacitor in back and a new battery. I dont get any signs of excessive current draw like dimming headlights etc. ------------- 01 Lumina
2 L5 15's
Brutus Bxi1600D
Kicker Mids/Highs
Kenwood 1000 watt 4channel
Posted By: haemphyst
Date Posted: May 10, 2007 at 12:34 AM
caddy16s wrote:
haemphyst thanks for the reply. check this out though. The sensor was not working all day. I decide to turn off all my equipment. I have a 150amp breaker feeding the system instead of a fuse, so I switch this breaker off (which shuts the amps off and also kills the whining noise).
Well, sure the whining will stop, the amps are off! 
caddy16s wrote:
I let the car sit for maybe 15minutes at the most and I start it up and the sensor is working again. I don't understand this. Do you think this could be attributed to the problem you stated before?
Yes, I DO think it's still attributable to your other power issues.
caddy16s wrote:
Also I forgot to mention I have a 5 farad capacitor in back and a new battery. I dont get any signs of excessive current draw like dimming headlights etc.
The cRap is possibly hiding the poor electrical system issues. Caps don't create power - they STORE it for quick release. If the system is slowly dropping in voltage, the cap (can) will hide the dimming headlights. What is really important here is the AVERAGE system voltage. If it drops slowly, you'll never see it, the dimming headlights is a manifestation of DRAMATIC and dynamic overloading of your electrical system. A cap will NEVER fix an overloaded system issue, it's merely a band-aid on the still bleeding bullet wound. ------------- It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."
Posted By: caddy16s
Date Posted: May 14, 2007 at 2:11 PM
After much research I have a probable answer. Some of you who replied in this forum and in another one felt as though I was totally off base with what I thought was going on, you may want to reconsider. I found information from multiple sources including jasperengines.com, and the repair manual from my 87 Eldorado that state that the condition I am referring to is called electrolysis. "electrolysis involves an ion exchange between the coolant and the heater core," and other items. Also quoted from Cadillac and jasperengines, "verify proper grounding of aftermarket electronic equipment, as improperly grounded electronic equipment can cause electrolysis." This can harm other elctronic components that come into contact with the coolant. The temp sensor is electronic and works on the basis of voltage difference. I stated that I KNOW I have ground loops previously. The same ground problems that are causing the whining noise thru my speakers are causing my temperature sensor to fail repeatedly. I will verify by checking for stray voltage in the coolant with a VOM to be sure, anything more than .2volts can be damaging. I don't think my amps drawing too much current would cause this problem as there are a multitude of other electronic components on the car/engine that would also be suffering. Thanks for the replies tho.
-------------
01 Lumina
2 L5 15's
Brutus Bxi1600D
Kicker Mids/Highs
Kenwood 1000 watt 4channel
|