Print Page | Close Window

how do you identify blown speakers?

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=94200
Printed Date: April 27, 2024 at 2:01 PM


Topic: how do you identify blown speakers?

Posted By: dk77
Subject: how do you identify blown speakers?
Date Posted: May 23, 2007 at 11:30 PM

OK...so I've got a '91 Nissan Maxima with a cut harness.  Put everything together (used two 8-pin Deutsch DT connectors) and no sound.  Identified the amp wire and connected to remote.  The back speakers sounded terrible (they're the amped ones, I believe) and the fronts sounded fine - for a couple of moments.  The right front quit working after a couple of moments.  The front left is the only one putting out decent sound.  Checked the connections of the right front and everything checks out OK. 

I'm sure the rear noise is due to the speakers being amped, but I haven't seen any bypass harnesses available.  I must say I'm a little perplexed.  I'm going to the dealer to get the wiring diagram for the Bose system to ensure I have connected everything properly.

Anyone have any experience with this year/model?  Any input would be appreciated.




Replies:

Posted By: dwarren
Date Posted: May 24, 2007 at 12:05 AM

Often times Bose amplified systems place the amp right next to the speaker. I just did a Pathfinder today that required an amp bypass. The two front door speakers had separate amps in the doors. The amps were bad, but the speakers were fine (like you described they sounded terrible). I however was unable to locate the amp for the rear speakers, but they worked and sounded well enough.

Other wise, a meter set to read ohm's hooked up directly to the speaker will do the trick.



-------------




Posted By: DYohn
Date Posted: May 24, 2007 at 3:43 PM

You can also sometimes tell if a speaker has been blown by the look of satisfaction on its face and if it has a craving for a cigarette. posted_image



-------------
Support the12volt.com




Posted By: dwarren
Date Posted: May 24, 2007 at 3:57 PM
DYohn] wrote:

p>You can also sometimes tell if a speaker has been blown by the look of satisfaction on its face and if it has a craving for a cigarette. posted_image


Wow, quite a bold statement although pretty funny. I think your membership may be suspended for a little whileposted_image



-------------




Posted By: DYohn
Date Posted: May 24, 2007 at 5:31 PM
You are right.  I will ban myself.

-------------
Support the12volt.com




Posted By: capt_james
Date Posted: May 25, 2007 at 7:52 PM
dwarren - that WAS the Moderator.  LOL




Posted By: dwarren
Date Posted: May 26, 2007 at 2:19 AM

capt_james wrote:

dwarren - that WAS the Moderator.  LOL

I know. That was why I said it.posted_image



-------------




Posted By: KarTuneMan
Date Posted: May 27, 2007 at 10:36 AM

listen to all this jiborish..... with a marginal disreguard for the poor boys question.... At least dwarren attempted to answer.

GUY'S    can I play too?posted_image



-------------




Posted By: dk77
Date Posted: May 28, 2007 at 10:07 PM

Got the system functioning correctly today.

The rear speakers had an amp right next to the speakers.  I removed the speaker inputs to the amps and connected them directly to the speakers.  The front speakers have the amp located inside the ported enclosure for the speakers.  I reconnected the inputs directly to the front speakers, and everything sounds fine.  No wonder a bypass harness isn't available.  You can't bypass the amps using a harness as there are no connectors between the speakers and their respective amps; it's a hardwired connection. 

The only thing I found odd was the resistance of the coils.  The resistance of the speakers was only 1.2 ohms each.  They work fine, but that seems to be pretty low.

The only look of satisfaction was on MY face.  But I don't smoke.





Posted By: soultinter
Date Posted: May 29, 2007 at 8:48 PM
supposedly not uncommon for bose to have a weird resistance figure for their speakers, I thought it was usually @ 2 ohms. Are you installing an aftermarket deck or reinstalling the factory or other?




Posted By: dk77
Date Posted: May 29, 2007 at 9:16 PM

Aftermarket.  When I got the car it was missing the whole center section.  Gone were the center bezel, radio, radio pocket, radio/radio pocket mounting brackets, and all hardware.  The harness/antenna for the radio had been cut.  I asked the previous owner about the missing components (thinking the radio had been stolen).  The radio wasn't functioning properly, so the owner had a neighborhood teen who "knew something about car audio"  take a look at it.  The teen broke the center bezel when trying to remove it (didn't see those screws above the radio) and then cut the harness (guess removing the connectors from the radio was much more difficult).  To make matters worse, the owner threw the radio in the trash (along with the radio pocket and mounting brackets), thinking the radio was faulty.  I got a good chunk taken off the car due to the gaping hole in the center of the dash. 

I called the local Nissan dealer, and all the parts I needed totaled over 350.00, Bose radio not included.  This is pretty steep, considering the cost of the missing items is roughly 1/4-1/5 of the cars value.  I went to a pick-and-pull salvage yard and obtained the center bezel, radio pocket (upgraded cupholder-style pocket...Bonus!!), mounting brackets, all necessary hardware, and a few extra switches (tranny shift mode and hazard) for a cool $20.00.  All the components were in great shape with no UV damage. 

Now that I had the components to fill the void, I had to work on some tunes.  Driving an hour and change each way to work sucks without something to sing along at the top of your lungs to.  I installed an aftermarket Sony deck.  It wasn't bad after I rang out the fourteen severed wires in the dash and bypassed all four amplifiers.






Print Page | Close Window