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building a passive crossover

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=94512
Printed Date: May 05, 2024 at 5:39 AM


Topic: building a passive crossover

Posted By: dderekd
Subject: building a passive crossover
Date Posted: June 04, 2007 at 1:10 PM

I understand this is basic, just trying to build something that will work. I would like to build a low pass crossover for an 8"  4 ohm sub with a cutoff of 80 hz.  This sub is only going to be powered by the radio.  21W RMS. The crossover would attach to the speaker wire.  First of all is this possible? If it is, I am not sure whether to use a LC or RC ciruit,  I have found diagrams showing you could use either the resistor or inductor to make one. It seems easier to find the resistors than inductors at the local ratshack.  But my question then becomes,

do I use this schematic with 80 Hz cutoff. L2= 11.25 mHy  C2= 351 uF.

posted_image

or this one.

where R= 20 ohm  C= 100 uF

posted_image

I that wasn' t enough- how do I know which resistors or inductors to buy, they may fit into the right ohms or millihenries but how do tell which watt and q ratings, respectively.

Thanks from a newbie with little knowledge and little research.




Replies:

Posted By: DYohn
Date Posted: June 04, 2007 at 1:13 PM




Posted By: dderekd
Date Posted: June 04, 2007 at 1:23 PM
I have been there.

But it does not tell me which is the right coil to buy.

I can find similiar mHy ratings but not sure about the Q min. current ratings.and dcr and other properties





Posted By: DYohn
Date Posted: June 04, 2007 at 2:41 PM

You do not want to use the RC topology.  A simple 1st order crossover A 80Hz for a 4-ohm woofer is to simply place a 7.96 mH inductor in series with the driver.  Use the lowest DCR rating you can obtain (or should I say, afford.)  You are not likely to find audio-quality crossover inductors at Radio Shack.  The best bet is to order parts from www.partsexpress.com or www.madisound.com

You probably don't want to try and build a 2nd order passive at 80Hz as the component values (especially the capacitor) become quite huge at that frequency. (the 321 uf value in your initial post, for example.)



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Posted By: dderekd
Date Posted: June 05, 2007 at 12:49 AM

Thank you for the information, especially where to find these parts.

One more thing.

With the setup above, how would I figure out which amp rating to use for the inductors.

8 mH 100 mA ?    8 mH 1A?      8 mh 6A?

Not sure if that makes a difference. But would like to understand for future knowledge.





Posted By: haemphyst
Date Posted: June 05, 2007 at 10:47 AM
Since you are only using deck power, even the 100mA version would be adequate, BUT it will allow you NO headroom, so I'd recommend the 1A version, minimum. I'm willing to bet that the 6A version is only a TINY bit more money, and will allow a forward upgrade path, if desired, so... I say get the 6A version... It will probably sound better too, as you will be running MUCH further from it's non-linear range, with such a small amount of power.

If the two smaller ones are iron cored, (or even if they are ALL iron cored) ABSOLUTELY get the biggest one. Hysteresis distortion is NASTY sounding, and very noticeable, and it sets in immediately, as the iron core saturates, magnetically. Always avoid iron cores in audio circuits, and if you can't find one to meet your needs, get the HIGHEST CURRENT RATED ONE one you can find, always.

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It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."




Posted By: jmelton86
Date Posted: June 05, 2007 at 7:41 PM

I was told by a Radioshack guy that they don't even sell inductors.

I just ordered 2 of these https://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=255-026&Cfid=454888&CFTOKEN=53922125 (6db octave, 3500Hz @4ohm) for the 4x6 woofers in my front doors. They will ultimately be bandpassed as they are highpassed from the HU. -The 4x6 woofers are running off HU rear channels, 18wrms. Highpassed @180Hz.

Q: I didn't see any kind of amperage ratings for the inductors. They claim 200wrms, will this be adequate?



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2013 Kia Rio -90a alternator
DDX470HD GTO14001 GTO1014D (x3)
Big3 in 1/0G
1/0G to GTO14001




Posted By: stevdart
Date Posted: June 05, 2007 at 8:35 PM
jmelton86, it is perfectly fine and better than any inductor in typical packaged car audio component systems.  I use the 18 ga variety of this brand in my home midrange speakers.

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Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.




Posted By: jmelton86
Date Posted: June 05, 2007 at 8:51 PM

I actually am (eventually...) planning on building this: https://www.partsexpress.com/projectshowcase/tritrix/index.cfm I just got a new house and currently have no audio system for the living room. I figure I can build a pair of these for $100, get a 200wrms x 2 @ 4ohm home reciever, add a 10" powered sub, and party on! -This's prolly plenty for me in a quiet setting like my house.

stevdart, thanks. So then the 20g's i'm using do handle 200wrms like they claim? Any hysteresis distortion with these? What about the amp rating mentioned before, do the air core inductors have this? Only iron core?



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2013 Kia Rio -90a alternator
DDX470HD GTO14001 GTO1014D (x3)
Big3 in 1/0G
1/0G to GTO14001




Posted By: stevdart
Date Posted: June 05, 2007 at 10:44 PM

Oh sure, they'll handle 200 watts.  Figure amp rating, if you want to, using Ohm's Law.  Generally, it's watts rating that is used.  What's hysterectomy distortion?  Oh yes, that's with iron core inductors, not air core.

Those speakers look like the top half of the main speakers I built for my system.  The bottom houses a 6.5 Vifa woofer that takes care of the range of 80 Hz to around 450 Hz.  I've never attempted a TL design.  Good luck with your speaker build!



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Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.




Posted By: jmelton86
Date Posted: June 05, 2007 at 11:53 PM

Yeah, I'll eventually get around to it. We're just now getting the New house so there're a lot of other projects that need to be started...I mean done.. Total cost with parts is about $100. About $60 for all drivers and xover parts -which use janzen coils.. and then wood and a finish. I read (the project start to finish is in PE's lastest salesflyer) that the instructions enabled the choice of either sealed, ported, or the TL that is featured. Not bad! Thanks for the input.

Could a similar comp. set be use in the automotive-world? I mean, the same driver and xover setup?



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2013 Kia Rio -90a alternator
DDX470HD GTO14001 GTO1014D (x3)
Big3 in 1/0G
1/0G to GTO14001




Posted By: dderekd
Date Posted: June 06, 2007 at 6:28 AM

I will definitely be buying the parts you guys suggested.

I have read most of the information out there, but it never gets into detail about how to buy components besides just C and L values.

So thank you for helping me understand the other info about these parts.





Posted By: jmelton86
Date Posted: June 06, 2007 at 7:10 PM

Yeah, just use this: https://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/cross.asp and select 2, 4, or 8ohm chart depending on the inpedance of your woofer/tweeter. Have Fun!



-------------
2013 Kia Rio -90a alternator
DDX470HD GTO14001 GTO1014D (x3)
Big3 in 1/0G
1/0G to GTO14001





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