phoenix gold sound system

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=94850
Printed Date: April 18, 2024 at 7:25 PM

Topic: phoenix gold sound system

Posted By: hub_n_hun
Subject: phoenix gold sound system
Date Posted: June 16, 2007 at 3:33 PM

I am putting my previous system into my new car and need some opinions.

This is what my system consists of:

Alpine IVA-W205 Head Unit (haven't yet but am considering it)

x4 Phoenix Gold X5.0 Components (150wrms)ea.

x3 Phoenix Gold X10D4 Subs (450rms)ea.

Phoenix Gold X1200.1 Amp (1200wrms)

Phoenix Gold X200.4 Amp (200wrms/ch)

I also have 2, 1 farad Caps but after reading that debate on them I think I am going to go without them. What I would like to know is the wiring part and fusing. I have read the sticky's and other post but am very confused. Let me know what you would do with this exact system, ie. wiring, how many batteries, alt. upgrade, etc?

Also, my subs can be wired into 1 and 4 ohm. Which is preferred and why?

Anyways, if this isn't making any sense or if there is anything else I need to inform you on (about this system, lol) let me know.

Thanks,

Corey

Replies:

Posted By: hub_n_hun
Date Posted: June 16, 2007 at 3:41 PM

Sorry forgot to mention this. Would it be better off that I go with 2 subs oppose to 3. That way I am overpowering the subs rather than underpowering? Another question, how do I know if my amp is putting out its rated 1200wrms? Do the gains and bass boost have to be cranked to achieve the full power?

Thanks again

Posted By: aznboi3644
Date Posted: June 16, 2007 at 3:52 PM

First thing you should to to your electrical system is upgrade your BIG THREE

three subs will be fine...I always like the look of three sub setups.

No...the gains and boost do NOT need to be cranked. They are not volume knobs. To correctly set your gains you'll need a DMM, clamp meter, and a oscilliscope. Or you could take it to a shop that has those things and have them do it for you for a small price

Posted By: hub_n_hun
Date Posted: June 16, 2007 at 4:27 PM

aznboi3644 wrote:

To correctly set your gains you'll need a DMM, clamp meter, and a oscilliscope. Or you could take it to a shop that has those things and have them do it for you for a small price

Thanks for the quick reply, aznboi. I have never heard or the above mentioned so I think I will have to get a shop to do that for me. My 3 subs have a combined power rating of 1,350 wrms and my amp only puts out 1200, is that not bad for the amp? Is it possible that I could run one power wire for the 2 amps? If so, what gauge and how far from the amp should it be split? Also, do I use only one fuse for the 2 amps? This is what really is confusing me right now since I have never wired up 2 amps with one wire.

I had asked a buddy at work about a line drive? He said I wouldn't need it, is that true? What does that do exactly?

Posted By: hub_n_hun
Date Posted: June 17, 2007 at 8:29 AM

Still need some questions answered..... anyone?

Posted By: kamberkash
Date Posted: June 17, 2007 at 10:54 AM

you certainly can wire two amps with one power wire, but in order to get the power to each amp you need a distribution block. you run the power from the battery to the block, then the block will divide that power to the two amps. does this make sense?

Posted By: hub_n_hun
Date Posted: June 17, 2007 at 11:32 AM

kamberkash wrote:

you certainly can wire two amps with one power wire, but in order to get the power to each amp you need a distribution block. you run the power from the battery to the block, then the block will divide that power to the two amps. does this make sense?

I already knew that, what I need to know is what guage would I run from the battery and then what guage wire should I use when I split it? As well, do I still fuse it by the battery or does it get fused in the distribution block? Or both? Since I am putting out 2000wrms should I use a 200a fuse? Thats what I need to know. And if anyone could answer my question about wiring my subs into a 1 or 4 ohm load, which is better and why?

Thanks.

Posted By: aznboi3644
Date Posted: June 17, 2007 at 5:27 PM

I would use atleast 2 gauge or bigger for the main power wire...then split it off with 4 gauge...then 4 gauge grounds will suffice

You still need to fuse the wire near the battery...every power wire coming from the battery should be fused for safety.

Fuse size is determined by the current handling of the wire.

make sure to read the ground stickyPower and Ground link on the left blue column

I always recommend a good fused distribution block using wafer style fuses. AGU fuses suck.

It really doesn't matter what load you wire the subs to that amp...they will be getting the same power.

Posted By: hub_n_hun
Date Posted: June 17, 2007 at 8:21 PM

Thanks alot aznboi!

I just have a few more questions just clear things up. What size fuse should be used for the dis. block? And, since there are going to be more than one fuse should all the fuse ratings be added together to equal the proper fuse rating? Again, thanks alot.

Corey

Posted By: aznboi3644
Date Posted: June 18, 2007 at 12:46 AM

You can do that....but since the runs will be short from the d-block to the amps i'd start off with a 60 amp fuse for the 4 channel with 8 gauge and a 100 amp fuse for the mono amp with 4 gauge coming out of the block

Posted By: smgreen20
Date Posted: June 20, 2007 at 8:02 PM

Both those amps are power hungry. Use 0-guage to a distro, then 2-guage out, The 1200.1 will do about1250 wrms at 4 ohms. I'd wire each sub in series to itself, then parellel the tree togather for a 2.66 ohm load. These amps are loosey regulated, so they'll actually increase about 15-20% at 2 ohms, so you'll be fine on the power to each sub. I believe you need 80 amp fuses for each amp.

I'm a PG freak, come join us and post all your PG Qs here.

Along w/this set up.