electrical system, ho alternator?
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=96246
Printed Date: May 12, 2024 at 11:22 AM
Topic: electrical system, ho alternator?
Posted By: idigmusic
Subject: electrical system, ho alternator?
Date Posted: August 08, 2007 at 4:24 AM
I've got an '05 nissan pathfinder that comes stock with a 130A alternator. I'd like to replace it with something a bit beefier, but they seem hard to come by for my car (and it's a nightmare to install). Anyways if I'm running an Alpine PDX 1.600 (600W) and PDX 4.100 (400W) for a grand total of 1000W does anyone think it might present a problem for my electrical system? I've got the big three upgraded except for the wire to the alternator from battery positive because of the predicament with getting to the alternator; I know it should be replaced, but I can hardly even see the connection to the alt. in my car (bottom corner, and blocked by the frame when looking under the car) It's all connected to an optima yellow top. Any thoughts? Thanks
Replies:
Posted By: xtremej
Date Posted: August 08, 2007 at 9:20 AM
I personaly am a fan of always having more than I need, less problems in the long run. Now remember I said personaly, I would upgrade the alternator. I am running a 210 amp in my shop vehicle, I am running a total of 1100 watts rms. There are other factors to look at also, extra lighting, screens, radar detecors, other misc. accesories that all draw more current plus the stereo. I would upgrade the power wire from the alt. to battery at the time of the alt. change.
Posted By: DYohn
Date Posted: August 08, 2007 at 11:20 AM
Finish the Big 3 upgrade first, even if it is hard to get at. Upgrading your alt is never a bad idea, assuming you can locate one for your vehicle. But if it's difficult to reach the power connector what makes you think replacing the alt will be any easier?  And the advice above is always the case: if you replace the alt ALWAYS upgrade the wiring. ------------- Support the12volt.com
Posted By: idigmusic
Date Posted: August 08, 2007 at 1:01 PM
Thanks for the advice. If I find an alt. to upgrade then I'd definitely put in the upgraded cable too at the same time; I already have the cable set up and ready to go in. Do you think 1000W would be too much for my system if no further upgrades are done though?
Posted By: DYohn
Date Posted: August 08, 2007 at 1:33 PM
It'd probably be OK. 1000 watts can require 100 amps or so, but that would only be if the system was running full-out. Give it a try. If you notice lights dimming or voltage drooping too muc, then go for the HO alt. ------------- Support the12volt.com
Posted By: haemphyst
Date Posted: August 08, 2007 at 6:37 PM
I'm running (1) PDX1.1000 and (2) PDX4.150s in my 01 Civic, and because I don't ever really run it WFO, I am getting away with the stock 75A alternator, for now. My "Big 3" is full-blown and redone with nothing smaller than a #4 anywhere under the hood, and a red-top. I do have a 200A alternator on the way, but it'll just be more than I need, so it should last "virtually forever".
As DYohn sez, it's only pulling 100A when it's running full-out.
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It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."
Posted By: idigmusic
Date Posted: August 08, 2007 at 7:00 PM
Thanks for all the help, it looks like I really just need to dive into that mess and finish up the big three install.
Posted By: csnut18
Date Posted: August 11, 2007 at 6:23 AM
Well just to give you another reference point, I have a 2006 acura rsx type s with the stock 110 amp alt. I have a jvc kd-avx33 driving a polk momo c400.4 and a c500.1. Because it is a leased car, I didn't bother doing any big 3 work at all. Everything is stock under the hood. I do have a tsunami 40 farad capacitor with the voltage and amperage displays on it. I mainly got the cap for the displays and the nice distribution block it has on it. I get some light dimming only when the system is really played towards it's upper end. The 40 farad cap doesn't get rid of the dimming completely although it does minimize it. So there you have it. C400.4, c500.1 and a 40 farad cap with no big 3 done at all plus 40 farad cap gets some dimming on a 110 stock alt.
Posted By: CTOH
Date Posted: August 11, 2007 at 11:11 PM
Buy a $49 "Amp Clamp" and see for yourself if you need one or not,,,it doesn't sound like you need one but I'd double check what is being loaded on the system,,,
Posted By: aznboi3644
Date Posted: August 12, 2007 at 10:23 PM
amp clamp isn't necessary...just see how low your voltage drops
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