2 12" Kicker 4 ohm DVC CVR, 800.2 Kicker Amp(3-40amp fuses) Each sub wired in parallel o present 2 ohm to each channel. Honda Accord 2002 LX. My rebuilt alt puts out about 80 at idle and 130-140 at high rpm.
When doing bat+ to Alt+ do you need to fuse it if your leavin OEM? I fused mine with a 175 watt fuse? Yay or nay?
Can I replace my OEM fuse with higher fuse and remove new fuse?
If im driving, should my volt gauge be going up and down depending on the rpm? Seems like when im driving and im above 2500 rpm then it will stay a constant 13.8 but then when i go to stop and im at idle then it will read close to 12.5.12.6 then when i go to accellerate it goes back to 13.8. Is this normal? Before i Upgraded the big three it would jump all over the place and pretty much stay at 12.5. Now that they are upgraded its doing this.
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Yours Truly
aznboi3644 wrote:
a fuse is not NECESSARY if the new wire is safely ran and double loomed.
175 WATT fuse???? do you mean 175 AMP fuse??
175 watt fuse would be a 12-14 amp fuse depending on voltage
if you really want to use a fuse than fuse shortly near the battery's terminal AND the alternator terminal
My alt charges around 13.8-14 volts at idle...yours seems a bit low...check back with whoever rebuilt your alt
I meant 175 amp.
If my amp is pullin 120 or needs 120 and i would say the basic pull from car would be 30-40. Would it be plausable to upgrade the OEM fuse or use the 175 amp fuse. Is this helping at all?
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Yours Truly