high output alternator
Printed From: the12volt.comForum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=97285
Printed Date: April 29, 2024 at 7:01 AM
Topic: high output alternator
Posted By: still_walkin
Subject: high output alternator
Date Posted: September 20, 2007 at 2:53 AM
Replies:
Posted By: haemphyst
Date Posted: September 20, 2007 at 9:45 AM
I had reasonably good luck with some of them, I've installed several on Civics and Accords, but mine, when it finally DID die, their customer service sucked azz. Not to mention the fact, that they SWORE to me that it was a drop-in replacement... It wasn't - I had to bodge some brackets. I called several times to confirm that it was, (during the installation, of course) again they said "Yep..." Then when it died, they said I "mis-applied" it, because it wasn't for that car, so there was no warranty.
It did seem to have decent power for the money, but I only need to get bit hard once to start bashing!
Overall, though, I have learned that it is better to spend the money up front - it'll save you in the long run.
Another option, HOAlternators. Expensive, but built that way. They actually get YOUR alternator from a supplier, gut it, and rewind it, (my thicker stator was re-wound with 12gauge wire, the OEM is 16gauge, possibly smaller
) so it is an EXACT, and real drop-in replacement. Ask for Philip at extension 126. Nice guy, and quite knowledgeable, too... I like the warranty on these alternators, as well: 1 year unlimited and unconditional, lifetime rebuilds after the first year for (around) $50.00 plus freight. Stinger offers 90 days, and nothing more (I believe), and it has to be installed by your Stinger dealer to get that, even...
Here's your alternator...
-------------
It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."
It did seem to have decent power for the money, but I only need to get bit hard once to start bashing!
Overall, though, I have learned that it is better to spend the money up front - it'll save you in the long run.
Another option, HOAlternators. Expensive, but built that way. They actually get YOUR alternator from a supplier, gut it, and rewind it, (my thicker stator was re-wound with 12gauge wire, the OEM is 16gauge, possibly smaller
) so it is an EXACT, and real drop-in replacement. Ask for Philip at extension 126. Nice guy, and quite knowledgeable, too... I like the warranty on these alternators, as well: 1 year unlimited and unconditional, lifetime rebuilds after the first year for (around) $50.00 plus freight. Stinger offers 90 days, and nothing more (I believe), and it has to be installed by your Stinger dealer to get that, even...
Here's your alternator...
-------------
It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."
Posted By: supradude
Date Posted: September 20, 2007 at 12:40 PM
Posted By: ExitVector
Date Posted: September 20, 2007 at 10:09 PM
Posted By: still_walkin
Date Posted: September 20, 2007 at 11:13 PM
Posted By: haemphyst
Date Posted: September 21, 2007 at 1:55 AM
Posted By: throwback2332
Date Posted: September 21, 2007 at 3:15 AM
Posted By: still_walkin
Date Posted: September 21, 2007 at 6:40 AM
Posted By: haemphyst
Date Posted: September 21, 2007 at 7:53 AM
throwback2332 wrote:
First why do you need a new alternator??? 1600rms+ 200rms+ 200rms= 2000rms and assuming 1600rms is your sub amp the other 2 pull very little current.
What the hell kind of question is that? I'd recommend upgrading the alternator ANYTIME you put even a moderate-sized system in a car. And what difference does it make what the amps are rated? Do the "smaller" ones need current any less than the sub amp?
Most cars come from the factory with the alternator BARELY oversized for the devices in the car that it already has to power, this means that the manufacturer wasn't PLANNING on any new accessories being added, especially a high current device like an amplifier.
Let's say you have a 105A alternator, typical for many GM products. At (about) 80A of continuous designed load, this only leaves 25A of additional capacity for the alternator to produce.
25A * 14.4V = 360W of additional capacity.
360W * 80% efficiency = 288W of Class D amplification
This means that, for an OEM alternator, as supplied from the manufacturer, and in the case of an alternator as large as 105A, (MUCH smaller in many cases - my 2001 Civic came with a 55A!)you would only be able to put a 288W amplifier in, as an additional accessory load, WITHOUT overloading the alternator.
He has 2000. Do the math. If they were all 100W amplifiers, (let alone a 1600, and a pair of 200's) he'd be overloading right now. The 200's by themselves should have an alternator upgrade.
-------------
It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."
Posted By: still_walkin
Date Posted: September 22, 2007 at 1:17 AM
Posted By: haemphyst
Date Posted: September 22, 2007 at 9:19 AM
Posted By: still_walkin
Date Posted: September 22, 2007 at 10:52 AM