battery/alternator
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=97488
Printed Date: May 07, 2025 at 6:45 PM
Topic: battery/alternator
Posted By: ~pj~
Subject: battery/alternator
Date Posted: September 27, 2007 at 6:40 PM
I have a 2000 Chevrolet Suburban. I am putting about 7000 watts of speakers in it. I have a 2.4 Farad capacitor but I am going to upgrade that to a 10 Farad capacitor. I bought another battery to put in the back of the truck for extra power. The battery is an INTERSTATE MEGA-TRON II. It has 700 CCA and 875 CA. Now how exactly do i hook it up to my main battery, I was thinking of using 4 guage power connected from the positive terminal under the hood to the positive terminal of the secondary battery, and then 4 guage ground wire to the chassis- would that power it and will it stay charged by the primary battery without draining them both? Do you think i need a battery isolator? If so, what is it? What is a good kind? And how do i hook it up? Am I going to have to upgrade my alternator, and if so to what? Now if I can hook the battery up like i planned on, can i build a box of 3/4" plywood and paint it and silicone the corners so its air tight, or will the acids from the battery eat the wood? If I can build a box for the battery like that will a 1/2" vinyl/plastic tubed material be enough to ventilate the gases out? And do i need a fan to force it out or will it go through the tube by itself? -------------
Replies:
Posted By: jmelton86
Date Posted: September 27, 2007 at 7:07 PM
'7000 watts of speakers' -This means nothing. What amp(s) will you be installing? Upgrade the alt first. Only add a second battery if it's the same as the one up front, within 3 months old of it also, after you upgrade the alt. No isolator if the alt is sufficient and the batteries are identical. The battery box will need a vent tube (2, 1 on each side if possible) that exits to the outside of the vehicle. Forget any number of farads (cRapacitors). They only stress your alt more as it's just another thing its' gotta keep charged, beside the fact that they don't do what the salesman told you. Update with ALL the equipment you'll be installing and we can help you better. ------------- 2013 Kia Rio -90a alternator
DDX470HD GTO14001 GTO1014D (x3)
Big3 in 1/0G
1/0G to GTO14001
Posted By: jmelton86
Date Posted: September 27, 2007 at 7:09 PM
Also, with alternator upgrade you'll have to do the Big3 upgrade; https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~73496~PN~1 ------------- 2013 Kia Rio -90a alternator
DDX470HD GTO14001 GTO1014D (x3)
Big3 in 1/0G
1/0G to GTO14001
Posted By: audiocableguy
Date Posted: September 27, 2007 at 10:16 PM
"7000 watts of speakers"?
How many Jambs Per Channel is that?
Posted By: audiocableguy
Date Posted: September 27, 2007 at 10:31 PM
Your other post said you would be using Lanzar amps and Audiobahn Subs. (I will be kind and not flame his bad choices). Sounds like you want to mix 10" and 15's. Why?
It is impossible to get 7K watts out of those amps. You would need a bit more than 4 AWG and 2 batteries. Hope you plan on buying some fuse holders for this install. Dump the Caps and spend the money on some better gear.
Posted By: ~pj~
Date Posted: September 28, 2007 at 12:05 AM
n how is it impossible? i had the two 15"s hooked before with and amp that could even push 2800watts and the subs reached a decibal level of 127. n i got a 300 amp anl fuse n im usin 0 guage wire
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Posted By: sarcomax
Date Posted: September 28, 2007 at 11:06 AM
I have to go check out this "other thread"... I thought that we were not supposed to have multiple threads on the same topic? I guess I should have all of the information before I post, but hey, why should I follow the rules. There is a reason that the chosen brands are known as lamezar and audiobling... News flash...The numbers that are provided with those products are not true real world numbers... I can scream louder than 127db, and am available for competition... The power that you speak is not coming from the speakers, it is coming from the amps. Actually it is first coming from the alternator, which is probably weeping softly right now at the additional amperage that it is being forced to try and produce. I agree with everyone else... alternator first, larger than 4ga wire if you add another identical battery to what you have up front. you mentioned the acids from the battery...Are you planning on using a non sealed battery? -------------
Posted By: audiocableguy
Date Posted: September 28, 2007 at 11:22 AM
Fine lets say those amps can do 7 KW.
1000W @ 50% = 160 Amps per amp
7 amps X 160A each = 1120 Amps
1/0 AWG @ 350A = X4 1/0 AWG power cables
X3 Kinetik HT-2400 Batteries
You will need X2 240 amp Alternators.
"The battery is an INTERSTATE MEGA-TRON II. It has 700 CCA and 875 CA. Now how exactly do i hook it up to my main battery, I was thinking of using 4 guage power connected from the positive terminal under the hood to the positive terminal of the secondary battery, and then 4 guage ground wire to the chassis"
This ain't going to cut it . . .
Posted By: audiocableguy
Date Posted: September 28, 2007 at 11:42 AM
Real world numbers out of those amps would be more like 2KW, still maybe.
1000W @ 50% = 160 Amps
160 Amps x2 = 320 Amps
X1 1/0 AWG @ 350 Amps
x1 Kinetik HT2000 battery
x1 240 Amp Alternator
Caps will be no help. No matter what manufactures claim, the truth is in the math.
Posted By: CapSS92
Date Posted: October 01, 2007 at 3:18 AM
Geez you are gonna need one of those group 31 18 wheeler batteries and 1/0 cable with that setup.
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