Printer Friendly Forum Posts - whats more powerful, kinetik or optima?

Well, the Kinetik is DESIGNED for that, but the Optima is designed to last longer. The higher number of plates within the Kinetik GUARANTEE higher (far higher, I might add) current capacity, but the fewer rolled plates in the Optima guarantee longevity. Better vibration resistance, as well...

I would also recommend NOT using the yellow-top, but going with a red-top. Even better current capacity, with longer reserve time than the yellow, but less than one HALF the price of the Kinetik. You can put two of the red-tops in place for the cost of one Kinetik. This will last longer, for the same money, and offer even MORE current capacity than a single Kinetik.

Below are some of the differences between the two Optimas, read and yellow, and the Kintetik

(2) Red Top: around 1600CCA, 2000CA, and 220 reserve minutes
(2) Yellow Top: around 1500CCA, 1740CA and 240 reserve minutes
(1) Kinetik HC1800: around 1900CCA, 1350CA, and 81 reserve minutes

I know what I'd use. But then, it's your money...

I think the point you are missing though, is that the current to run an amplifier DOES NOT come from the battery. What are you doing to address the source of ALL electrical power in the car - your ALTERNATOR?

-------------
It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

I believe my vehicle came with about a 140 or 150 amp alternator stock so I didn't really think it required an upgrade.

Ummm.... Yeah, if you're looking for a battery that "will laugh in the face of current draw from a large amplifier", you will have to upgrade your alternator. Stay with me here...

Most manufacturers already load their alternators to around 80%, just for "reliability" purposes, and in the heavily accessory laden world of the 'Calade, you're EASILY at that point already.

150A X 80% = 120A, already being used from the stock alternator.

150A - 120A = 30A to supply your "current draw from a large amplifier".

30A X 14.4 = 432 watts

432 watts * 80% efficiency = 345 watts worth of usable amplifier power.

I don'tknow YOUR definition of "large amplifier", but 345 watts DOESN'T fit my definition. You have to upgrade. Period.

-------------
It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

Interesting. So back to the red top for a moment, I read the post and starting doing some research on these batteries. If they are better than Yellow Tops then how come they are cheaper? Also one of the descriptions I read for a red top actually said right in the description "not recommended for high performance car audio applications"??

If you read ALL of the Optima disclaimers, they all say there is no warranty when used for high-performance car audio applications (at least they USED to), whether "recommended" or not. There ya have it.

Cost means nothing to the performance factor. Also, in my book, they are better, for the above listed reasons. I am just laying out the facts, provided by the manufacturers, so you can make a more informed decision. There is SO much out there, with so many advertisers/manufacturers/advertising departments, sometimes you just need somebody else to lay it out for you - a second pair of eyes, as it were. Performance per dollar, the red-top is the best performer, overall.

Marketing departments are the reason that SACD (went) and Blu-Ray (is going) as well as it (they) did. Both inferior formats, (Sorry, DYohn...) and that's not just me saying that, Sony's advertising is as good as they come, when "telling you what you want", next to Bose. Blu-Ray is outselling HD-DVD 2:1, here in the 'States, but in the REST of the world, HD-DVD is outselling Blu-Ray 3:1.

-------------
It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

Well you 2 guys sure seem like the most well informed so I am willing to just take what you say on blind faith LOL. So is there any particular model number of the red top Optima I should get? I need a side terminal that is why I was looking at the D34/78 in the yellow top which has both top and side. Thanks guys. You rock!

If you were going to use the D34/78, the red-top number is the 34/78

-------------
It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

I found out that the Reds are better than the Yellows after I laid down $120 for 2 of 'em.

At least I got them for half price!

-------------
2013 Kia Rio -90a alternator
DDX470HD GTO14001 GTO1014D (x3)
Big3 in 1/0G
1/0G to GTO14001

The reds do kick some butt, I have really taxed mine very hard with my Jeep and a 8000LB warn winch. Although not warranted for it most most people use them over the yellow. There is no amp out there that will tax a battery like useing a winch.

I traded in my Yellow top(s) for Odyessy 1500's and have been very happy. The Odyessy has a six year warranty. My sales expert says he has stopped recommending the Optima due to poor customer service with warranty issues.

Wrong spelling: odyessybattery.com

Just as a follow-up I went an ordered a Red Top Optima for the Escalade. We'll see how well it plays with the JL 1000/1, if having issue's I guess I'll see if I have to upgrade the alternator too.

Good to here, if your pushing it hard the altenator will be the biggest help, that is the next thing on my long list of stuff for my Jeep to help with the loads that my winch puts on it. Let us know how it works out.

I may do the alternator anyway, I saw one for my Caddy on Ebay for like $200 and its a 200 Amp. I think my stock alternator is somewhere between 135-150 amps so this would be quite an increase. The way I figure is I got a real good battery in the way and if the alternator is having a hard time keeping up with the draw from the amp I'll just be reducing the life of the battery if its not being kept fully charged.

Anyway I am glad I picked up the battery, the Escalde is a 2002 and I think its the original battery so it probably didn't have much life left in it anyway. I was doing a project a few months back and had the doors open for a couple hours (interior light on) and couldn't start her after that, had to put the charger on it for a bit, so that tell me it was pretty weak.

haemphyst This topic interested me and I as well value your opinion greatly. You confused me though when you said Optima doesn't warranty there batteries when used for high performance car audio applications and you said "So there you have it". Sounded like you were saying there not good for our applications and there admitting it but, then you go on to say the red top is the best choice? Could you clarify this?

Thanks,
Anthony (MECP certified Basic, 1year in the industry) yea a newbie...:O)

No, they are FANTASTIC (especially the red top) but the OP was using the Optima warranty as a reason to get the yellow top (or NOT get the red top... whichever.) I was just saying that that was not a strong enough argument to get the yellow top.

-------------
It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

So I might as well get your opinion for my Alternator upgrade as well. I'm looking at 2 different companies on Ebay, both are fairly evenly priced, one is a 200 amp, I think the company is Alterstart, and I asked them what it puts out at idle and they said about 75 amps. There is another company I think its like Boss Load or something like that. Their alternators have a bigger case (supposed to still just bolt right in) and are also 200 amps but they claim 110 amps at idle, they are a little more expensive. Do you think it would be worth the extra dough for the one with higher output at idle? Anyone know what the stock unit puts out at idle? Thanks!

Load Boss is Alterstart. While mine lasted, the alternator was pretty nice. Decent performance and cheap enough...

Call Phil at H-O-Alternators.com Significantly more expensive, but after seeing the build quality, I can completely understand why.

-------------
It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

I have a red top in my G35 and I'm on my second one. My first one didn't last very long (maybe a year). I have an OEM stereo in the car, too, so it wasn't from high current draw.

I had absolutely NO problems getting a new new one for free though, so I'm not sure why anyone would have any issues with Optima's warranty. I didn't even have my reciept. The shop I bought it through new that it was still within the warranty period so they swapped it out no questions asked.

-------------
Kevin Pierson

haemphyst wrote:

Load Boss is Alterstart. While mine lasted, the alternator was pretty nice. Decent performance and cheap enough...

Call Phil at H-O-Alternators.com Significantly more expensive, but after seeing the build quality, I can completely understand why.

After I posted I went back on to ebay and saw that. The other company I was referring to is Eagle Auto Electric...which sound like a bunch of clowns, check this out, I send them a message saying that I am on the fence about whose alternator to get, their's or Alterstarts, I tell him what Alterstart had to say and then ask him to sell me on theirs, to give me some examples as to why I should choose their alternators. His reply was basically, I don't think they can do 110 amps at idle but do what you want, get theirs and see. LOL Now what kind of sales pitch is THAT???? I'm asking the guy to sell me...and what does he do..tell me to buy the other guys, that is the poorest salesman on the face of the earth!

I used to use a Kinetik HC 1400, and I was going to go with an 1800 in the trunk till I decided to shell out some money for some Odyssey batteries. I don't have any experience with the Optimas, however, the Kinetiks are better as reserve batteries. If you're going to play your audio system while the vehicle is off, the Kinetik will be more suitable. The Odyssey (same as Stinger and Hawker, just different names) are much better for being used in daily driving conditions. I have an Odyssey PC1200 and it slightly outperforms my HC 1400. I have check voltage drop and compared the two and the Odyssey was the winner. Once I decide on my substage, I will be putting in the Odyssey PC2150 in the trunk. This beast is known to be much better of a battery than a Kinetik HC 2400. Another battery to consider besides the ones I mentioned is Northstar. The NSB's are great batteries as well.

someone go some # messed up ca are higher than cca on any battery. red tops are NOT better than yellow top for audio. if you dont believe my as scottie johnson on termpro.com or email at www.powermaster.com. i recomend kinetik's...

splaudio wrote:

someone go some # messed up ca are higher than cca on any battery. red tops are NOT better than yellow top for audio. if you dont believe my as scottie johnson on termpro.com or email at www.powermaster.com. i recomend kinetik's...

For SPL use I would also, but for daily, I wouldn't per the recommendations I made in my previous post.

well im tryin to make my car an SPL car and im tryin to figure out if i should run a kinetik 2400 or a optima, idk im gettin opinions straight donw the middle. which would be better if its running as my secondary and not my primary. my alternator is 170 amps i think and theres no way to do anything to it cause my car is so new. basically i just want to know what is the best choice is all. ill be running 2 3000 rms amps. right now im running 1 off my stock electrical system and i have almost no dimmin at all.