all my batteries in the trunk possible?

Here is my problem.  I bought 3 optima red top 75/25 batteries to power my system.  I was planning on buying 2 of the 34/78 but when I looked at my car I realized that the 34/78 batteries would not fit under the hood.  Then I bought the 3 75/25 since they are alittle smaller.  However they are still too big to have one under the hood of my 93 civic. 

My question is.  Can I have ALL the batteries in the trunk, and if so is this how I would connect them?  If not how would I do it?

If so I will return the 3 smaller batteries and pick up 2 of the bigger optimas instead.  I would assume that I would have to attach the power that usually attaches to the positive post of the battery to the 0 Guage Power wire Via a distro block or something and then would I just ground the negative wire to ground?  Should that also be 0 gauge to chasis or could I just snip off the old connecter and crimp on a new one and screw to ground?

That power wire would run to the back and attach to the battery + and then from that batt + to the other batt pos.  Then the battery - would be connected together and then from one to ground correct?  Where would I have my 300 amp fuses?  I assume one within 18" of the first battery from the front of the car.  Where else would I need one since the batteries are so close to the amps?

Just trying to make sure that I read the first paragraph right...I should run two wires to the batteries in the back one being a #4 from the alternator but since I will have a 200 + amp alternator probably use the 0 guage correct?  and then also a 6 guage from the fuse block under the hood to the battery.  Is this correct?

then when its all done get the car aligned and place fuses pretty much everywhere im going off the batteries with more than a couple feet.  If my batteries are side by side do I need to fuse that wire if its a really short wire say 8 inches or is that only necessary if they are farther apart than that?

Thanks alot for the tips.

haemphyst wrote:

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As long as you allow for adequate power demands, both to the rear from the alternator, and the back to the front to the main fuse block, electrically the car will know no difference. I'd recommend a #4 or better back, and a #6 or better back to the front. If you upgrade your alternator to anything larger than a 150A, then you will need a cable that is larger than a #4.

The weight of the system in the back, as well as the additional weight of the batteries in the back, will affect how the car handles... It will. I speak from experience with Civics... this is my second one, and the rear suspension in them really ISN'T designed to handle all that weight on a permanent basis. It may or may not affect the steering geometry, but I can fairly assure you that you will want to have the car aligned after you move everything to the back.

As far as actually connecting them? A (FUSED, PLEASE!!!) distribution block would certainly make it easier, but it's not really necessary... Just a simple, heavy gauge jumper between positive terminals, with individual grounds to the chassis, to INDIVIDUAL ground points will be the best option.

Yes, you will still fuse within 18" of the battery bank, both in and out. Any cable that is longer than a couple of feet, should have a fuse in it as well, (fused for the gauge of the wire) even the wires between the batteries.

Hope this answers some of your questions...

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Just to clarify, you want to still have a fuse under the hood, on the power wire going from the alt. to the batteries, & a fuse at the batteries on the same wire. Reason being, with the car running, & IF somehow the wire going the the batteries grounds out, you big $$$ alt will be toast.

Also, check the requirements for the alt., as my 250 stinger alt, stated no more the 5 foot run of 0GA (both power & ground) to the battery.