3 wire turn signal replacing 2 wire

I just installed aftermarket 3-wire turn signals on my Honda VTX1300R, replacing the factory signals. The 3-wire signals are dual element, where one element works as a marker and both work as a turn signal. Two of the wires from the 3-wire are direct swap, but the instructions call for the third wire to be connected to the bike's "marker" lights. Since the bike didn't have those, I connected the third wire in parallel with the license plate light, which comes on with the ignition.
Everything works properly, sort of. The turn signals glow when the bike is started, then flash more brightly (and more quickly than the factory signals) when the turn signals are engaged. But after a few minutes, they get too hot to touch.
Obviously I'm drawing too much current to the turn signals. I could just disconnect the third wire, but why won't they work the way I've installed them? Will installing a load resistor in line with each signal work to reduce the current draw?
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks.

A dual element bulb is not meant to burn both elements constantly.  They will overheat.

Thanks for the reply, but I don't think both elements are being lit at the same time except when the turn signal is activated. They seem to be wired correctly, but I have read that when turn signals blink rapidly, they are drawing too much current, and mine now blink rapidly and overheat.

Which element is lit all the time, the dimmer or the brighter of the 2?   Fast blinking usually indicates not enough current draw.  It is a safety mechanism to alert you that there may be a blown bulb.  If you caught the dimmer element for blinker, it may not be ienough of a load, hence the fast blinking.  The higher wattage element being on steady could also explain the heat buildup.   When you said you wanted them both to blink, that is why I thought you had them both on.  If you find out that the elements are backwards and correcting that resolves your heat issues, we can make them both blink for you.  It may take 2 relays per side of bike to accomplish that, but if you have the space, we can make it happen.

The dimmer element is the one that stays on as a marker, and the brighter element comes on as a blinker. The wiring instructions were very clear and easy, as far as doing a 1/1 swap for the 12v and ground. The extra wire from the 3-wire turn signals was supposed to go into the "marker light" circuit, but since that didn't exist on my bike, I paralleled the light for the license plate. That light comes on with the ignition and I figured it was sort of a marker light. Obviously, I've overlooked something. Thanks again for your help.

Does it overheat with just the marker light lit?  

Yes, it overheats with just the marker lights lit.

Sorry for the long delay. It's just been too cold to work in the garage.

if they are overheating with olny the marker lights lit, and you are sure that you have the dimmer of the 2 elements as the marker lights, it has to be a faulty designed Light housing. 

any updates on this? My turn signal light seems to be having the same problem, what was the culprit? Was it the light housing?

i think this has something to do with my relay, is there a relay checker tool that i could use to check if my wires are letting current pass through?

If you are talking about a 3-wire flasher can etc, the 3rd wire has to go to its own dash bulb to indicate that it is indicating.
You should be able to leave it disconnected if you have left & right dash indicators tat are wired to the respective sides.

To connect the 3rd wire to another powered light means you may be injecting power into the can.

As to dual-filament bulbs, although headlight bulbs (like H4 etc) should not have both filaments on long-term, the smaller stop/tail or parker/indicators are ok - that is common on older vehicles. (EG - a 4/21W or 7/21W dual filament bulb.)

Thanks for the post.
Hi guys, Im a newbie. Nice to join this forum.




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