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2008-2011 Dodge Caravan Remote Start Pictorial

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Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience - Alarm/Remote Start Pictorials
Forum Discription: Installer submitted Alarm, Keyless Entry, and Remote Start Pictorials from our Car Security and Convenience forum.
Printed Date: October 17, 2021 at 6:17 PM

Topic: 2008-2011 Dodge Caravan Remote Start Pictorial

Posted By: kreg357
Subject: 2008-2011 Dodge Caravan Remote Start Pictorial
Date Posted: January 11, 2012 at 8:48 PM

This is a How To Pictorial for Remote Starter w/Keyless Entry installed in to a Dodge
Grand Caravan / Chrysler Town & Country mini-van for the 2008-2011 model years.
It is specific with respect to the bypass module used and the necessary vehicle wires.

Any quality remote starter can be used with the iDatalink bypass module when wired in
the W2W mode.  While this install was done with the ADS AL-CA module flashed with
the ADS ALSL CH4 firmware, the DIYer will find it easier to obtain the ADS ALSL CH or
ADS DLSL CA2 modules that come pre-loaded with the correct firmware.

Make the necessary connections between the R/S and the bypass on the bench following
the iDatalink install guide.  For the basic install, only 9 wire connections to the van will
be required ( including the optional Horn connection ).


The bypass module will control the door locks, both power sliding doors and factory alarm.
It will supply the R/S with a Tach signal, Brake signal, EBrake signal plus door and hatch
status signals.  It also handles the Transponder bypass, ignition MUX control, Parking Light MUX
and RAP shutdown ( if required ).  ( Newer iDatalink modules will not need the Parking Light MUX Relay.)

Vehicle Disassembly :

Remove the drivers side dash panel using non-marring tools.


Remove the drivers lower dash panel by removing three Torx T-20 screws, one at the side and
two at the bottom edge.



Remove the knee plate by removing four T-20 screws marked.  Lift the plate up slightly and remove.


Here is a picture of the Ignition Harness connections. Harness continues to the right, to the back of the ignition switch.


Here is a picture of the Horn wire.  Ignition switch harness in background.


Here is a picture of the Parking Light MUX wire.


Here is a picture of a convenient firewall pass thru grommet ( Hood Release ) for the Hood Pin and +12V constant wires.


While the battery is preferred, here is a picture of a +12V constant source. ( Fuse down the R/S to a total of 20 Amps.)


Optional connections:

Drivers door pin for RAP shutdown.  Connect to R/S Arm (-) output wire.


Rear Defroster :


Soldering is fun!


Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: January 11, 2012 at 9:49 PM
nice pictures kreg, i did one of these a week ago and it was easy with the evo-chr.

2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Posted By: xchrisx
Date Posted: January 15, 2012 at 10:03 AM
Extremely helpful as always. We need more pictorials on the forum!


Posted By: houseofska
Date Posted: January 06, 2014 at 2:27 PM
Hello, I know this is resurrecting an old thread, but I am stumped and looking for assist. I have a 09 Chrysler T&C and am having trouble with the remote start my "friend with install knowledge" and I installed. I put that in quotes because I quickly found out I knew just as much as him by reading from online sources.....

Anyway, I have a Viper 5704V and a idatalink ADS-AL CA.
I can arm, disarm, and do everything I am supposed to with the remote except start the car. I suspect I must have pre-wired some wires in the wrong spot. Appreciate any help I can get.

The car starts fine with the original key, factory as well as viper lock and unlock work as well.

Posted By: smokeman1
Date Posted: January 06, 2014 at 5:16 PM
Might want to start a new thread for your Chrysler.
It would help if you could list all of the connections made from the Viper 5701, the ADS-AL CA, to the car.

When all else fails, Read the Instructions
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Posted By: mydden
Date Posted: November 16, 2014 at 3:47 PM
Did pretty much everything here. remote start would beep/instrumental panel lights up, can hear fuel pump on. But the vehicle wont crank.
prostart with dball.
I install a few of these on Hondas, Toyotas no problem, But for some reason this caravan is been quite a pain.

Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: November 18, 2014 at 7:22 AM

I've had really good results with Avital, Ultra Start and Compustar system on these mini-vans.  I have never used a Prostart product, not too available in my area.

I've also had great results with iDatalink and Fortin modules.  I usually go W2W mode, too.  Never tried a DB-ALL or DB-ALL2, so can't comment or provide much assistance with them.

Soldering is fun!

Posted By: pentavolvo
Date Posted: November 18, 2014 at 7:40 PM
Just did a Caravan with avital one button unit and dball with zero issues

Posted By: tccustoms
Date Posted: October 04, 2015 at 6:28 PM
Hey guys, I have an 09 Caravan and they installed the OMEGALINK OL-RS-CH4 and they never hooked up the corner lights and I want to do so since they are yanking me around about doing it...can I just tap the WHITE/ brown wire add shown here?

Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: October 05, 2015 at 7:39 PM
Yes.  Use the WHITE/ Brown wire from the OMEGALINK OL-RS-CH4 T-Harness 1 to the van's WHITE/ Brown Parking Light MUX wire.

Soldering is fun!

Posted By: tccustoms
Date Posted: October 05, 2015 at 10:36 PM
That was the ticket....MUX it is, lol. Thanks alot!

Posted By: ccomm911
Date Posted: November 13, 2017 at 5:52 PM
I have a 2008 Dodge GCV, the Cargo Version. I am adding extra interior LED dome lights. The existing interior dome lights slowly fade out after the doors are closed. This has already burned out one (cheap/China) LED dome light, because the slow voltage drop caused the LED dome light to flicker very fast. Does anyone know of a work around for this? I tried a relay, and same thing, the relay contact flutters, essentially the same result as when the LED is wired directly to the existing dome lights. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

Posted By: geepherder
Date Posted: November 13, 2017 at 9:09 PM
You could try a BJT (transistor) in place of the relay.

My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.

Posted By: ccomm911
Date Posted: November 14, 2017 at 7:30 AM
What size/value? And what would the connections look like?

Posted By: geepherder
Date Posted: November 14, 2017 at 8:14 AM
Value shouldn't be a huge concern, since it won't need to dissipate much power. If your trigger is positive, use an NPN. For a negative trigger, use a PNP. It doesn't need to be a Darlington, but you'll want something with relatively high hFE (gain). An hFE of 200 or more would be plenty. Couple that with an appropriate resistor, and you'll be in business.

Here's a link to a good website:

search "the transistor amplifier"

Once you understand the basics, you should be able to find something locally that'll work.

A basic circuit would be fused power to your LED's, from the LED's to the collector of an NPN. The base would be connected to your positive trigger through a resistor. (I usually cut the minimum gain in half, and do some math to find a resistor that'll work for me.) Connect the emitter to ground.

My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.

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