Printer Friendly Forum Posts - 2002-2007 Trailblazer Remote Start Pictorial

2005 Trailblazer Remote Start w/Keyless Pictorial

Notes:
2002 - 2007 Trailblazer are the same. This vehicle was a 2005 LT with factory alarm.
Due to the alarm, Passlock2 and door lock system, it is easiest to use a full featured bypass module like the Fortin INT-SL. This
module will handle the Passlock2, locks, factory alarm, parking lights and supply a Tach signal, door pin status & turn on heated
seats / mirrors and defroster if the engine temp is below 32 F.
This vehicle has "one touch" starting. As such, there is no need for an Anti-grind circuit.

Below is the R/S and bypass bench prepped in the W2W mode. Only 14 wires to connect to the vehicle including the extra relay
for the ACC2 wire ( not shown ).

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Disassembly:
Remove the two Phillips screws at the edge of the under-dash panel. Remove the two Phillips screws retaining the ODB2
connector. Pull the panel down slightly ( clip at center ) and then pull the panel towards the rear of the vehicle. Feed the
OBD2 connector through the hole and release the trailer controller ( if equipped ).

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Remove the four Phillips screws retaining the lower dash panel and pull panel staright away at top ( 3 clips ).

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Remove the two 10mm bolts retaining the knee plate and remove plate.

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There is no need to open the steering column, all of the necessary wires are now accessable.

Here is a picture of the Brake wire. Alternate location is at the connector at the top of the brake pedal.

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Here is a picture to the under steering column ignition connector, left side.

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Here is a picture of the under steering column ignition connector, right side.

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Here is a picture of the OBD2 connector.

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Not shown is hood pin wire. Firewall pass-thru is at the large grommet in center area of drivers-under dash that contains the
main engine harness.

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Soldering is fun!

Is the Brown- ACC 2 even necessary on this vehicle? I never hook this circuit up. Sounds like a wasted relay to me.

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I drink current, eat ohms, and bleed voltage

What does the brown control? If only radio and windows you're absolutely right.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

While I did verify the Brown wire is an Accessory wire, I did not check to see what items were actually supplied with power
by this wire. Powered it up for two reasons. First, it's there and I like to duplicate the regular key functions ( a relay only costs
$2.25 ) and second, this note in the DirectWire info, "Must be powered up. If not, the vehicle will crank as soon as it sees Ignition".
Sorry, I did not check to see if that really happens. While the Starter wire was used, I think GM was in the cross-over period of getting
rid of the Starter wire.

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Soldering is fun!

Kregg, sorry I confused it with a Nissan X-trail. Got to cross the puddle and look at some GM stuff in the flesh!
I should have sussed it out from the single violet data wire, GM system, a Nissan would have had CAN Hi and Lo.
I believe there will be transmission problems and DTCs being thrown if the brown isn't powered up.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Yes brown needs powered . If not it will crank immediately after seeing ignition.

Actually, it depends on the year of the car. I definitely know that a 02,03,04 does not need the brown 2nd accessory hooked up unless doing a XK01 bypass module with window roll-up. Even then its not the remote start powering it, it's a dedicated output from the XK01 using a relay. I'm not positive when the truck started needing the 2nd accessory... but I'm pretty sure it was 07.

kreg357 wrote:

While I did verify the Brown wire is an Accessory wire, I did not check to see what items were actually supplied with power
by this wire. Powered it up for two reasons. First, it's there and I like to duplicate the regular key functions ( a relay only costs
$2.25 ) and second, this note in the DirectWire info, "Must be powered up. If not, the vehicle will crank as soon as it sees Ignition".
Sorry, I did not check to see if that really happens. While the Starter wire was used, I think GM was in the cross-over period of getting
rid of the Starter wire.

Ya a relay may cost $2.25, but for us small retailer's doing 50-100 r/s in this vehicle a year thats saving $112.50-$225 a year on one car. This isn't required just like a lot of GM's around this era

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I drink current, eat ohms, and bleed voltage

Cost ALL parts into a job quote as miscellaneous or sundries then make the customer happy if you knock $5-20 off at payment time.
It doesn't stop at relays, think of all the other consumables, I've noticed that solder for instance has quadrupled in price over the last three years, tape, sleeving, wiring, write down of tools, I wouldn't worry too much about $225 on that basis, it pales into insignificance.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I agree with the OP that we should be duplicating ALL of the key functions whenever possible. I typically do Audiovox units in these and the keyless models don't require any additional parts. I have had to repair way too many GM vehicles that didnt have the Brown ACC wire hooked up, to not do it myself.

When in doubt duplicate everything you can!

Another note, the brake and parking light + wire can be found in the large loom running Drivers side to Passenger side, directly behind and under that large square Ignition connector. Usually it has a silver tape band that says FAP FAP FAP on it. They are usually the largest (besides the Accessory wires) White and Brown wires in that harness.

Also, as most of us know there is another dash version in that vehicle where there may be plastic covers on the very top two 7mm bolts, and a half round metal support that requires four 10mm nuts to be removed.

This is one vehicle where no two techs will use the same location for their hookups. Many different ways to get it done.

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To master and control electricity is perfection. *evil laugh*

howie ll wrote:

I wouldn't worry too much about $225 on that basis, it pales into insignificance.

I was just pointing out one small piece to the puzzle in the small business world. I'm not gonna nickel and dime a customer for tape, wire loom, solder, diodes, resistors, etc. If they wanna get itemized pricing they'll go to a big box store. I just price r/s a flat rate on easy, medium, and hard. That's one of the reasons my customers keep coming back. My customers like it cause its simple and saves me time from answering unneeded pricing questions.

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I drink current, eat ohms, and bleed voltage

Yes but that argument pales into insignificance if you cost in tool write downs and sundries.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Apologies, I meant DON'T cost in etc.
Or as a small business, I do know where you're going, I tend to base each job on its profit so maybe our thinking is along the same lines anyway.
A year ago a 528T cost me $7.5, doubled and yes I've checked US trade (wholesale) against UK. The only things cheaper in the US are quality tools and Scotch 33+.
59XX series aren't available here, the 57XXs are and the wholesale price is the same.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Hey can anyone provide clarification on the brown wire ACC2.
I have a Viper 5704 do I just hook this direct to the appropriate wire on the Viper unit or do I need to wire in a relay?? If a relay is required can someone provide guidance please.

Here are the systems the brown accessory 2 wire feeds by years

2002 - 2003
Windshield wiper motor
BCM
Outside moisture sensor
DVD player

2004
Windshield wiper motor
BCM
Outside moisture sensor

2005 - 2006
Windshield wiper motor
BCM
Outside moisture sensor
TCM (5.3L)

2007
Windshield wiper motor
BCM
TCM (5.3L, 6.0L)

I would recommend connecting this wire regardless of year.

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This information is provided only as a reference.
All circuits should be verified with a digital multi-meter prior to making any connections.

For your 5704 Viper, you will be already be using all the H3 leads for IGN1, IGN2, Starter1, and ACC1. You will need to add an external relay for ACC2.
Here is how to wire it up : 30/40 Amp SPDT Bosch style relay
Relay Pin 85 to Viper H2/22 Orange (-) 200mA Accessory Output wire.
Relay Pin 86 and 87 to +12V constant fused at 25 Amps
Relay Pin 30 to truck Brown ACC2 wire.
Relay Pin 87A not used - insulate

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Soldering is fun!

This was so helpful when doing my install

Nice write-up on the R/S...I'm doing a 5704 with xk06 on my 05 tb ls...little confused on some of the connections from the 24 pin harness
any insight or forum links anyone knows of?
I've searched and searched, can't seem to find anything on that~
Getting a bit frustrated with it

While I am not a big user of XPressKit modules, it appears the XK06 w/PLXR firmware only does the Passlock2 bypass. Considering that you are installing a remote start, keyless entry and alarm system ( Viper 5701 ) it would seem to make sense to go with a module like the Fortin INT-SL+.

Making the manual connections to the door locks and door triggers can be a challenge. Here is some some basic help with the H2 connector :

H/1 PNK/WHITE (-) 200mA FLEX RELAY CONTROL OUTPUT            Not used
H/2 BLACK/ WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY INPUT         To Chassis Ground ( auto trans only )
H/3 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS /REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT     Not used ( unless you want to add Rear Defrost )
H/4 GREEN/ BLACK (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM DISARM OUTPUT Not Used
H/5 RED / WHITE (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT        Not Used
H/6 GREEN (-) DOOR INPUT
H/7 BLACK / YELLOW (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT OUTPUT
H/8 EMPTY ----------------------------------------
H/9 DARK BLUE (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT To XK06 in W2W mode - XK06 Brown wire
H/10 PINK (-) 200mA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT        Not Used
H/11 WHITE/ BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 3 OUTPUT             Not Used
H/12 VIOLET (+) DOOR INPUT
H/13 WHITE/ VIOLET (-) 200mA AUX 1 OUTPUT            Not Used
H/14 VIOLET/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 2 OUTPUT           Not Used
H/15 ORANGE / BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 4 OUTPUT        Not Used
H/16 BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT White @ Brake pedal switch
H/17 GRAY (-) HOOD PIN INPUT (NC OR NO) to supplied hood pin
H/18 VIOLET / YELLOW (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT              Not Used
H/19 BLUE* FACTORY HORN INPUT (Use jumper to set polarity)    BLACK / YELLOW to black (-) horn switch or BCM, tan plug, pin E12        H/20 GRAY/BLACK (-) DIESEL WAIT TO START INPUT          Not Used
H/21 WHITE/ BLUE ACTIVATION INPUT            Not Used
H/22 ORANGE (-) 200mA ACCESSORY OUTPUT        Used to control additional relay for Brown ACC2
H/23 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT                  white (ac) instrument cluster or PCM/ECM, blue plug
H/24 GREEN / WHITE (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM ARM OUTPUT     Not Used

If you need more help, try making a post in the Car Security and Convenience section with your specific question. There are many forum members that are familiar with Viper and DEI products.

The Viper 5701 is a robust, full featured system designed for DEI trained professionals. The Trailblazer has some non standard wiring that can be difficult for the novice installer. While the pictorial system was not an alarm unit, the Fortin INT-SL+ does supply the door status signals.

Good luck on the install.

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Soldering is fun!

Thanks for the reply, but I'm seeing a slight diff in the wiring between my supplied 5704 guide, and the schematic you gave?
24 pin connector
H2/1 pink/white (-) 200mA ignition/flex relay control output
H2/2 BLACK/ white (-) neutral safety input
H2/3 blue/white (-) 200mA 2ns status/rear defogger output
H2/4 GREEN/ black (-) 200mA OEM alarm disarm output
H2/5 RED / white   (-) trunk release output
H2/6 green       (-) door trigger input
H2/7 BLACK / YELLOW(-) 200mA dome supervision output
H2/8 BROWN / black (-) 200mA horn honk output
H2/9 dark blue   (-) 200mA status output
H2/10 pink        (-) 200mA ignition 1 output
H2/11 WHITE/ black (-) 200mA aux 3 output
H2/12 violet      (+) door trigger input
H2/13 WHITE/ violet(-) 200mA aux 1 output
H2/14 violet/black(-) 200mA aux 2 output
H2/15 ORANGE / black(-) 200mA aux 4 output
H2/16 brown      (+) brake shutdown input
H2/17 grey       (-) hood pin switch
H2/18violet / YELLOW(-) 200mA starter output
H2/19 blue       (-) trunk pin/instant trigger input
H2/20 grey/black (-) diesel wait to start input
H2/21 WHITE/ blue (-) remote start/turbo timer activation input
H2/22 orange     (200mA accessory output
H2/23violet/white (tach input)
H2/24 GREEN / WHITE (-) 200mA oem alarm arm output

Hopefully you did the same thing I did...one eye still half closed when reading this lol
::fingers crossed:: I'm partial to all those "not used" wires, and for whatever reason, it hadn't crossed my mind that I wouldn't need them.
I don't mind taking the time to do the extra work, and make sure it's right/clean...just want to get her working first.

Thanks again for the help, if you think I need to post in another section after this, I'll be sure to do so~
Chris

Sorry, I used the 24 pin H2 harness from a 4704. Viper has been shuffling around the wires and connectors recently. Usually the color and name remain constant.

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Soldering is fun!

no worries, I have the xk06 wired up...car cranks with both the bypass immobilizer and passlock II wired cut and in/out to the bypass module...but I can't seem to get it to program? Hold programming button, crank vehicle, led should flash x3...but no flash? already reset xk06 and tried again

First, did you use the XKLoader cable to flash the XK06 module with the correct PLXR firmware? If not,
is there a sticker on the module with a check mark next to PLXR? Just making sure the module is OK.

In the install guide I have, you should be using the Installation "D" diagram on Page 4. There is no cutting of
any vehicle wires in that install mode. It does show some extra connections for VATs and Passlock1 that aren't
required for your Passlock2 system. The Starter & Ignition connections can be run to the Vipers' H3 wires
( that end up going to those vehicle wires ).

As I mentioned, I'm not a big DEI user and have never used an XK06 for Passlock2. What are you planning for the
door locks?

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Soldering is fun!

...that's why fresh eyes are always good to have around when it comes to something you've been working on for hours on end...
xk06 preloaded with PGK7...gonna make a run to the audio install shop ((that quoted me $850 for the viper 5704/xk06/install)) posted_image

HEECCCCCCCCKKKKKKKKKKK no lol hell ebay and a few burn marks from my cheapo soldering iron ::battle scars...one day a story to tell::
so hopefully, after flashing the bypass in the a.m. everything will be working *fingers crossed*

HUGE thanks to Kreg357, you sir are a lifesaver~

btw...what about the door locks? the xk06 handles the front doors and the liftgate through the OBDII wire, right?

::edit::
ok after looking over the install guide for the PLXR firmware, there's no connection to my OBDII wire...that doesn't seem right to me?

As mentioned earlier, the XK06 w/PLXR firmware only handles the Passlock2 engine immobilizer system in your 2005 Trailblazer. It is not the same module as the Fortin INT-SL+, nor does it have the same capabilities / functions. The Trailblazer is easy to do with the correct bypass module, but without a full function bypass module, extremely difficult. Stated more bluntly, the XK06 w/PLXR is not the best module to use on your Trailblazer when installing a remote start, keyless entry, alarm system like the viper 5704. Hence my question about how you were planning to handle the door locks.

Terminology note : A "bypass module" is capable of bypassing the vehicles ignition immobilizer system during a remote start. A "full function bypass module" handles the immobilizer system and other functions. "Other functions" vary by the bypass module and the vehicle. They range from interfacing the door lock system, supplying Door Trigger, Trunk & Hood Status signals, controlling the Factory Alarm and Parking Lights, supplying signals like Tach, Brake and EBrake to even turning on the heated seats. Each manufacturers full function bypass module is different. Different in what it does, different in how it's wired, different in how it is flashed with firmware ( some come pre-loaded from the factory like the INT-SL+).

For the 5704 install, you need to interface the vehicles power door lock system ( keyless entry ) and monitor the door trigger status system ( alarm ). Here is a link to the XPressKit WEB site : https://www.xpresskit.com/VehicleCompatibility.aspx?src=vs1&p=null&year=2005&make=Chevrolet&model=TrailBlazer&ps=1&s=0&c=0 It lists the modules that they have available with the functions supported by each. Once again, while I am not a big DEI user, there are full function modules available from DEI that appear to be similar ( in function ) to the Fortin INT-SL+ module used in the pictorial. Note that the XK06 w/PLXR firmware is in the Transponder Override section, not the Combo section ( Combo is DEI's way of saying Full Function ).

While the $850 price might sound outrageous at first, remember that a quality install shop knows the vehicles, knows which systems and bypass modules are best suited for the vehicle, has the units in stock and can do the install in a few hours. You get your vehicle back the same day with a working system and a lifetime warranty.

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Soldering is fun!

I think I owe you an apology, Kreg357. I misread what you were saying about the bypass at first. Aftereffects of working a 13 hour shift and coming home trying to get this install done at midnight right afterwards.

I went to the local audio/video install shop and picked up the DBall xpresskit, ($$$ whoaa lol) and the arm/disarm is working...but the locks aren't? neither with my factory fob, or the door panel. any ideas?
it's connected via D2D and the ODBII wire

The DB-ALL can be pricey but it does a lot for you with this vehicle ( if it works ).

OK. DB-ALL flashed with GM1 firmware and going D2D. The install diagram pretty much shows all the necessary connections. Only one from the DB-ALL to the vehicle ( OBD2 )
and the D2D harness between the DB-ALL and the Viper. From the Viper to the vehicle are the two Ignition wires, the two Accessory wires ( one of which would require an extra
relay ), the Starter wire, the Brake input, the Parking Light, the chassis ground connection and the four +12V constant power wires. Not shown is the Neutral Safety wire and
switch.

As for the locks not working, think I would try re-programming the module to the vehicle again. Make sure it follows the guide and responds exactly as shown on Page 4 of the
install guide.

As a last resort, and yes it is a lot of wiring, you could switch over to the W2W install mode and make all the dashed blue wire connections. Also remove the D2D harness as it is not needed in W2W mode. Would look similar to the first photo in the pictorial. ( D2D can be problematic while W2W always works. )

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Soldering is fun!

Ok, the past hour has been hectic...I'm at work trying to figure this out while cooking lmao...i go to my car to go to work, turn the key and nada...won't crank, no window action, no lock/unlock action etc etc...the DBall wasn't showing anything from the led, so I went back to the shop and they swapped it for me
I get off pretty late, so I'm gonna get nack at it then...any ideas?
10a fuse for "lock" was blown, but from ehats goin on, I'm assumimg there is a fuse blown somewhere causing my problems?

Properly connected in D2D mode, the Viper / DB-ALL system should have nothing to do with a lock fuse...

Wiring chart for Viper 5704 and DB-ALL w/GM1 ( in D2D mode ) to 2005 Trailblazer

H1/1 RED (+)12VDC CONSTANT INPUT               +12v CONSTANT
H1/2 BLACK (-) CHASSIS GROUND          CHASSIS GROUND
H1/3 BROWN (+) SIREN OUTPUT SIREN
H1/4 WHITE/ BROWN PARKING LIGHI ISOLATION WIRE           NOT USED
H1/5 WHITE PARKING LIGHT OUTPUT *SET VIPER TO (-)        gray/black (-) headlight switch or BCM, tan plug, pin E5
H1/6 ORANGE (-) 500mA GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT      NOT USED

H2/1 pink/white (-) 200mA ignition/flex relay control output        NOT USED
H2/2 BLACK/ white (-) neutral safety input     CHASSIS GROUND
H2/3 blue/white (-) 200mA 2ns status/rear defogger output       NOT USED
H2/4 GREEN/ black (-) 200mA OEM alarm disarm output    NOT USED
H2/5 RED / white   (-) trunk release output                 NOT USED
H2/6 green       (-) door trigger input           NOT USED
H2/7 BLACK / YELLOW(-) 200mA dome supervision output                NOT USED
H2/8 BROWN / black (-) 200mA horn honk output     BLACK / YELLOW (-) horn switch or BCM, tan plug, pin E12
H2/9 dark blue   (-) 200mA status output     NOT USED
H2/10 pink        (-) 200mA ignition 1 output            NOT USED
H2/11 WHITE/ black (-) 200mA aux 3 output             NOT USED
H2/12 violet      (+) door trigger input          NOT USED
H2/13 WHITE/ violet(-) 200mA aux 1 output              NOT USED
H2/14 violet/black(-) 200mA aux 2 output              NOT USED
H2/15 ORANGE / black(-) 200mA aux 4 output          NOT USED
H2/16 brown      (+) brake shutdown input             white (+) brake switch
H2/17 grey       (-) hood pin switch              USE VIPER SUPPLIED HOOD PIN
H2/18 violet / YELLOW(-) 200mA starter output           NOT USED
H2/19 blue       (-) trunk pin/instant trigger input      NOT USED
H2/20 grey/black (-) diesel wait to start input       NOT USED
H2/21 WHITE/ blue (-) remote start/turbo timer activation     NOT USED
H2/22 orange     (200mA accessory output            TO EXTRA RELAY PIN 85 *SEE WIRING BELOW
H2/23 violet/white (tach input)          NOT USED
H2/24 GREEN / WHITE (-) 200mA oem alarm arm output      NOT USED

H3/1 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT    PINK @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
H3/2 RED / WHITE (87) FLEX RELAY +12V INPUT (30A FUSED)     +12V CONSTANT
H3/3 ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT      ORANGE @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
H3/4 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL) YELLOW @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS *cut wire
H3/5 GREEN (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL)      YELLOW @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS *cut wire
H3/6 RED IGNITION 1 +12V INPUT (30A FUSED)        +12V CONSTANT
H3/7 PINK/WHITE (30) FLEX RELAY OUTPUT    *Default = IGN2        WHITE @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
H3/8 PINK/BLACK (87a) FLEX RELAY INPUT                 NOT USED
H3/9 RED / BLACK ACC/STARTER RELAY +12V INPUT (30A FUSED)          +12V CONSTANT
H3/10 NC No Connection

Door Lock, 3-pin connector NOT USED

Viper D2D port harness to DB-ALL 4 Pin Data port

DB-ALL 14 Pin Plug Pin2 Violet / YELLOW to OBD2 Violet wire at Pin 2

EXTRA RELAY FOR BROWN ACC2 WIRE

Relay Pin 85 to Viper H2/22 Orange (-) 200mA Accessory Output wire.
Relay Pin 86 and 87 to +12V constant fused at 25 Amps
Relay Pin 30 to truck Brown ACC2 wire.
Relay Pin 87A not used - insulate

All connections should be verified with a Digital Multi Meter.
All connections should be soldered.
After all connections are made, install the Viper's fuses, then program the DB-ALL to the vehicle.
Test the locks. Then start making the necessary programming changes to the Viper. These will include :
Transmission Mode = Automatic
Engine Checking = Tach Mode
and any other features needed / desired
Finally do a Tach Learn and then try a remote start.

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Soldering is fun!

Sorry, I should have been more clear, neither my windows nor door locks will work from the door panels, my headlights/interior lights won't come on either. I've checked all the fuses, didn't see any that were blown...this project is making me look like I'm so very new to the electronics scene, but I swear this isn't my first rodeo...just been plagued with issues since the beginning.

That $850 for a professional installation probably doesn't seem that bad now. You have to remember when you pay a professional they typically have years of experience and thousands and thousands of dollars of tools to properly diagnose and fix issues that pop up from time to time. More importantly, they also are insured to protect them and your vehicle.

That being said, what were you doing when you blew the fuse? Obviously from the extent of the damage something had to have happened. If you can pinpoint exactly what you were doing at the time you may be able to work backwards from there. Get a vehicle wiring diagram that shows fuses and find the fuse that protects the fuse you blew (if there is one) and check that. It is very possible that this is only a fuse issue. However, it could also be a Body Control Module issue. Checking the proper fuses with an ohm meter is going to be the easiest way to rule out fuses. If it isn't a fuse issue try to find a common connection to all the things that have quit working (ie they are all controlled by the same module, or they all share the same grounding point, etc.).

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Kevin Pierson

Ok, here's what I "know" so far lol

megafuse-ok
fuse box connected to bcm is getting power
every fuse that should have constant 12+, does
every fuse that should have power with ign on, does

what works-
brake lights
turn signals
power adjustable seats
horn
dash lights
windshield wipers
gear shift location identifier (name?)

what doesn't work
headlights
park/running lights
interior lights
radio (button lights come one, but nothing else)
power door locks
power windows
sunroof

I hear no clicking from any of the relays anywhere (fuse box under the hood or by the bcm)

Could it be a bcm issue?

I can't help but wonder if there are several independent things going on at once. The security light was on before the no crank/no start issue, if I remember correctly the door locks were working for a short while (I was excited to finally get some results so I can't say for certain) the DBall bypass was programmed to my vehicle at the shop where I bought it yesterday, got home, went through the proper programming steps (led feedback was per the instructions) then after a while I noticed the led indicator on the bypass was no longer coming on. Sorry for leaving this part out yesterday, I was in mini-panic mode while I was posting on here and trying to find a way to get to work.

Thanks guys, I know this is getting to be a headache
and hats off to KPierson for getting back with a reply within hours of the pm...can't thank you enough

Chris

Check (continuity setting with a DMM) all the under hood "big" fuse.
You have multi circuit failings.
Is there power to the lighting feed?
Is there power, constant and ACC to the radio?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

My advice is to pick one function and troubleshoot it. One of the easier ones listed is the headlights. Get a schematic for the headlights - there should be a switch driving a relay. Determine if the relay is firing. If it isn't, the problem is on the control side, if it is the problem is on the power side. I agree with Howie, there is most likely a "main" fuse somewhere. At least let's hope there is!

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Kevin Pierson

The best way to test a standard fuse is to remove it and do a "static" test with a Digital Multi Meter set to the lowest
resistance scale. Looking for zero ohms.

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Soldering is fun!

I'm still at work, but the relay I used for my drl killer isn't getting power (no clicking of the relay) as far as the rest, I'll either check tonight after work, or first thing in the am

KPierson wrote:

My advice is to pick one function and troubleshoot it. One of the easier ones listed is the headlights. Get a schematic for the headlights - there should be a switch driving a relay. Determine if the relay is firing. If it isn't, the problem is on the control side, if it is the problem is on the power side. I agree with Howie, there is most likely a "main" fuse somewhere. At least let's hope there is!

and if it isn't?
I'm assuming a bcm replacement would be the other option?
any idea what kind of $ we're talking there?
I called a used parts dealer to see if they had a bcm and how much, but I was otw to work and didn't have the # he needed to verify, calling back in the a.m.

Forget BCM, start testing.
Someone has to be a real klutz to destroy a whole BCM.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Howie I've seen it happen. Someone shorted out a non protected (-) output on a Nissan BCM. It actually burnt up all the traces on the ground plane of the circuit board leaving virtually nothing on the board grounded.

As far as it not being a fuse, the next step would be to figure out what all the lost functions have in common. If they are all controlled by the BCM then obviously you would suspect the BCM is damaged. I am honestly not to familiar with GMs and their electrical systems. You'll need a factory manual with wiring diagrams most likely to trace everything back.

In the Nissan/Infiniti world a BCM is around $400. The catch though is since most cars these days have CAN busses the dealership may need to register the new BCM to the car. In many cases simply swapping the part without dealership programming won't work. Again, this is based off my experience with Nissan/Infiniti vehicles.

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Kevin Pierson

Some testing and troubleshooting is definitely in order. Not sure what happened, but it seems that there is an additional relay in the DRL circuit and possibly some cut / re-connected wires where the XK06 w/PKG7 was installed. The reason being, if something is still wired wrong or shorted out, a new BCM will be damaged upon power up. Still hoping that it is only a fuse.

KP is right about going back over everything you did in sequence to help determine what went wrong and when. At the very least, remove the remote starter and restore all wiring back to original condition.

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Soldering is fun!

Kreg357...already done lol
when the **** hit the fan, that's the first thing I done...every viper component is boxed up in the passengers seat right now, so it's not a r/s wiring issue at this point.
I actually ended up going with the DBall instead of the xk06 after you pointed out the limited features of the xk06 (thanks for that btw)

I'm on the search now for a manual with wiring diagrams...yay me

KP...next time, I'll pay the effin $850 posted_image

Here are the wiring diagrams

Doorlocks

Exterior lights

Headlights

Interior lights

Radio

Sunroof

Windows

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This information is provided only as a reference.
All circuits should be verified with a digital multi-meter prior to making any connections.

much appreciated (:

so this morning I had a few min of down time...so I checked
raw batt V +/- 12

@ignition switch

12V constant = +/-12
ignition 1 and 2 = +/- 12
acc 1 and 2 = +/- 12
starter = +/- 12

haven't gotten into the fuse box to test relays yet, my meters probes are a bit too large...safe to use a bit of wire to connect the probes to the ports?

maybe it's my pessimism at work...but it seems like it's starting to look like a bcm issue?
when I picked up my new DMM, I asked the guy how much one was retail, just for doodies&giggles...I guess $195 isn't too bad with a 1-year warranty :)
much less than I was expecting~

91stt] wrote:

Here are the wiring diagrams

Doorlocks

Exterior lights

Headlights

Interior lights

Radio

Sunroof

Windows

I can't thank you enough for the diagrams...window is up, I have power to the door lock actuators...but no response from the door panel controls themselves. I'm trying to be optimistic about it being a simple fix, any thoughts?
And for some reason my fine network and the12volt aren't getting along right now, so it's forums via android :P

And again, thanks a ton guys...really saving my arse here

Nice job

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When in doubt....kick it!

update:

tested all the ignition/crank fuses in the under hood fuse box and they are all reading correctly...I have power to my fuse box beside the bcm, and my door trigger wires are sending signal to the fuse box.

door panels have power/ground to door lock actuators and windows motors, and there is a class 2 data wire signal...but no response from the panel

power to acc/ign/starter wires at the ignition switch, but no crank/start

I checked the splice packs under the RR seat, and getting positive readings from several wires there

could this be some kind of passlock issue? just wondering since the security light is on, and the 30 min relearn isn't working, the light never goes off...
I understand that the passlock system runs through the factory head unit, and the button lights come on the HU, but no display or function of it?

I'm stumped...HELP!

Have you looked at the headlight system yet? Like I said before, pick an "easy" circuit try to fix it.

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Kevin Pierson

Was the XK06 ever connected ( using the PKG7 diagram )? That could have messed with the Passlock2 and be causing the "Security" light issue. If yes, you might want to review which wires were affected and where they go.

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Soldering is fun!

kreg357 wrote:

Was the XK06 ever connected ( using the PKG7 diagram )? That could have messed with the Passlock2 and be causing the "Security" light issue. If yes, you might want to review which wires were affected and where they go.

I laid everything out, got rough measurements for the wires, and bench wired the xk06 to the r/s module...but this was before realizing that the xk06 was limited in what it could do. A buddy at the local audio/video install shop hooked me up with a DB-all, which was then connected via ODBII. When the locks/windows etc stopped responding, so did the DB-all, and when I made a trip back to maybe see if it had lost the programming, he swapped it for a new one. Not sure what the deal with it is, didn't say. (forgot about that part guys, sorry...been a hectic past week)

and KPierson I'm heading outside after I finish some things here to start on the headlight circuit, thanks.

I was under the impression that dball or any similar product shouldn't be connected at the OBD 11, they throw false readings on factory/dealer diagnostics. Better to go to the BCM.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

So after cursing myself out for nearly 10 minutes...I think I've got my head back on straight. Turns out, I spent countless hours trying to diagnose the problem, checked the fuse box numerous times (both of them) and somehow, each time I checked them, I missed fuse #31 for the Truck Body Controller...I think livid would be an understatement as to my mindset when I replaced the blown fuse and all my interior lights came on, and truck started right up. Only thing wrong now, is I get no throttle response, Reduced Engine Power light is on...checked the Electronic Throttle Control fuse, don't seem to be any issues with the harness at the throttle body.

sorry for all the hassle over a single fuse...lesson learned though, pen and paper with a checklist is the only way to make 110% sure you checked every single thing.

Does the bcm need to be powered during r/s? The reason i ask is because i would rather my radio and wipers stay off while the vehicle is warming up, as i dont want to break my wipers if i leave them on and they freeze, and i dont want to wake up the neighbors with my subs. It seems like the best way to make sure they stay off is to not connect the acc2 wire, but obviously i cannot do that if the bcm is required.

Can't hurt to give it a try and leave the Brown ACC2 wire un-powered during a remote start. During post-install testing, you can check to see if the Heat, A/C and fans work properly. Then check to see if the radio and wipers are in-operative. Even better, iIf you have a hand held OBD2 scanner you can verify the absence of codes before and after install to be sure.

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Soldering is fun!

kreg357 wrote:

Can't hurt to give it a try and leave the Brown ACC2 wire un-powered during a remote start. During post-install testing, you can check to see if the Heat, A/C and fans work properly. Then check to see if the radio and wipers are in-operative. Even better, iIf you have a hand held OBD2 scanner you can verify the absence of codes before and after install to be sure.

Good point, i didnt even think of using my obd2 scanner to check for errors. Thanks for the input.

Hooked it up without the acc2 connected and it worked like a charm. Radio and wipers stayed off, everything else was running.

That's great! Thanks for the update. What year? Any codes logged? Heat and A/C work OK?

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Soldering is fun!

2004. I just thought of this, the radio in mine is triggered from the wiper fuse (aftermarket stereo thing specific to this vehicle) So im not sure if the brown acc2 controls the radio or not. Even if it doesn't, i'd still rather not have the wipers turn on. No codes so far, climate control works perfectly.

Good info. Thanks! posted_image

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Soldering is fun!

Glad to hear everything worked out as planned!

I hope the OP is still around on this and I know this is an old thread. I have a question regarding this install. I have a very similar setup on a 2002 Trailblazer with 6 high current wires just like the Ultra Start 1272. 2 12V constant, 1 IGN, 1 ACC. 1 Start, and 1 selectable for either Start2, ACC2, or IGN2. According to my manual and the UltraStart manual, these 6 wires are identical.
How are 6 wires being connected to 7 locations as indicated in the picture?
I know that there was some discussion of ACC2 not being needed, and it is set to default to IGN2 but it can't be IGN2 AND ACC2 at the same time.

You will need to use relays to properly add extra ignition or accessory outputs.
I have uploaded a diagram in the downloads section of this site, Adding extra ignitions for remote starting

It shows how to add extra ignitions but the same can be used for accessory outputs by substituting the wire to terminal #86 with the accessory output of the remote start module.

Even though not shown, it is always recommended that the Constant +12V source for terminal #87 be fused. As a personally rule, I do not use any fuse greater than 25A to protect this circuit. Better yet, if you can determine the fuse rating for the ignition or accessory wire you are going to energize, use that as a maximum. Also ensure that the source you are getting the constant +12V can accommodate the additional current. When in doubt, go to the battery for this.

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This information is provided only as a reference.
All circuits should be verified with a digital multi-meter prior to making any connections.