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2012 Lincoln MKZ Remote Start Pictorial

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience - Alarm/Remote Start Pictorials
Forum Discription: Installer submitted Alarm, Keyless Entry, and Remote Start Pictorials from our Car Security and Convenience forum.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=130656
Printed Date: August 18, 2022 at 6:41 AM


Topic: 2012 Lincoln MKZ Remote Start Pictorial

Posted By: kreg357
Subject: 2012 Lincoln MKZ Remote Start Pictorial
Date Posted: February 17, 2012 at 8:54 PM

This is a pictorial for the 2010 – 2012 Lincoln MKZ.  The sister vehicles, Ford Fusion
and Mercury Milan, should be the same.

The pictures are from a 2012 Lincoln MKZ.  This car has a standard key ignition and
the factory alarm.  Install was for Remote Start with Keyless Entry.

Disassembly:
Remove the drivers side lower dash panel by pulling in straight away from the dash.
It has four snap fasteners, one at each corner.

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Remove the knee plate by removing the four 10MM bolts indicated.

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Remove the lower steering column cover by removing two Phillips (screws shown by the
Yellow arrows) and one Torx T-20 machine screw ( Red arrow ).  Separate from the upper cover and remove.

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Pop out the trunk release switch panel by reaching behind the panel and pressing on the four retaining tabs
( two on top & two on bottom ).    Remove the passengers kick panel cover by pulling it straight rearward
and then up from the door sill. 

Here is a picture of the left side of the steering column and the ignition connector.

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Here is the ignition plug with the wires marked.

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This a picture of the Horn wire at the steering column connector.

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This is a picture of the Parking Light wire at the Smart Junction  Box under drivers dash.

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This is a picture of the Brake wire at the brake pedal switch.

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Here is a picture of the Trunk Release plug ( switch panel removed ).

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This is picture of the door lock wires in the passenger kick panel. 

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Here is a picture of the PATS transponder connector.

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Important tid-bits…

This car had a “HA” stamped key.  Ford is in the process of switching to 80 bit encryption.  Any key
 with “SA” or “HA” is capable of 80 Bit Encryption.  The easy test to verify 40 or 80 bit is as follows:
Connect a DMM to the PATS power wire ( Light Blue/Black ).
Switch OFF without key = 0V
Insert a working key in to the ignition switch.
Switch OFF with key inserted = 0V     40 Bit Encryption
Switch OFF with key inserted = 12V   80 Bit Encryption
If you have 80 Bit, you will need a bypass module capable of 80 Bit systems.  Currently DEI PKTX,
Fortin EVO-Ride or the iDatalink KLON process.
If you have 40 Bit, any bypass module capable of PATS3 should work.   I used a DEI
1100F bypass module ( ADS TB with ADS TB FM firmware ) but there is one important
wiring change.  The bypass modules W2W ground input must come from the PATS
Ground wire ( BLACK/ Violet ).

Factory Alarm

To disarm the Factory Alarm, the remote start must pulse the Ignition wire,  the bypass module ( GWR in W2W mode )
and, according to some, the Accessory wire.  Some remote starters have a programming option to do this.  The Ultra Start
U1272 I used has an option to pulse GWR and Accessory with a disarm.  I wired a relay using the disarm output to pulse
the vehicles Ignition wire to achieve a Factory Alarm disarm.

One Touch Start

This car has one touch start with built in anti-grind.  If the R/S system is capable, a fixed crank time will work fine.



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Soldering is fun!



Replies:

Posted By: racerjames76
Date Posted: February 18, 2012 at 1:49 PM
Very good write up on these cars. Havent done the MKZ, but I have done the fusion and milan. They are pretty much identical.

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To master and control electricity is perfection. *evil laugh*




Posted By: pts760
Date Posted: February 22, 2012 at 2:04 AM
If you pulse the ignition/accessory, granite it disarms the alarm but turns the radio on as well. If you bump unlock by accident in your pocket this could be a problem.

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I drink current, eat ohms, and bleed voltage




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: February 24, 2012 at 1:00 AM
Personally I think you are doing a grand job and Racer James, know one has a go, to critique something after the event is only human nature especially if they thought of it first posted_image

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: March 29, 2012 at 8:56 PM

Info update:

Excellent point concerning the remote starters disarm signal ( as wired - a pulse to ACC, IGN and transponder bypass )
causing the cars radio to come on ( if it was left on when the vehicle was last driven and exited ).  An errant unlock
could indeed cause problems.   Had the customer do a couple of tests to make sure the auto shutdown happened and
the actual time period involved.  At exactly the 10 minute mark the radio is turned off.  The doors do not automatically
re-lock.



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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: cmk0808ny
Date Posted: March 31, 2012 at 4:43 PM
i believe you only need to pulse ignition and disarm only of you do an alarm/ keyless with non factory remotes. a one button will disarm when you remote start with transponder and ignition.




Posted By: lucasoil4u
Date Posted: July 17, 2013 at 3:08 PM
Are you pulsing the ignition to wake up the GEM module?




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: July 17, 2013 at 6:37 PM
No, the Ignition pulse was only for the Factory Alarm disarm. This car did not exhibit the typical Ford GEM issue with the door Unlock going to sleep and needing a wake-up trigger. Think the newer Fords with the Smart Junction Box ( SJB ) don't have that problem.

Maybe an installer with a Ford dealer account can chime in with more info.

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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: pts760
Date Posted: July 18, 2013 at 2:16 PM
kreg357 wrote:

No, the Ignition pulse was only for the Factory Alarm disarm. This car did not exhibit the typical Ford GEM issue with the door Unlock going to sleep and needing a wake-up trigger. Think the newer Fords with the Smart Junction Box ( SJB ) don't have that problem.

Maybe an installer with a Ford dealer account can chime in with more info.


I've done hundreds of newer ford's with the SJB and have never had to wake it up for lock/unlock

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I drink current, eat ohms, and bleed voltage




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: July 19, 2013 at 10:47 AM
Thank you, pts760, for the helpful info / confirmation. posted_image

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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: July 21, 2013 at 7:07 AM
And just to really wiz me off, the same car as the UK Mondeo with different wiring colours, I recognise the connectors.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: generalgoomz
Date Posted: November 01, 2014 at 8:59 PM
kreg357 wrote:

Info update:


Excellent point concerning the remote starters disarm signal ( as wired - a pulse to ACC, IGN and transponder bypass )
causing the cars radio to come on ( if it was left on when the vehicle was last driven and exited ).  An errant unlock
could indeed cause problems.   Had the customer do a couple of tests to make sure the auto shutdown happened and
the actual time period involved.  At exactly the 10 minute mark the radio is turned off.  The doors do not automatically
re-lock.




Sorry to revive an old thread...but ill be doing a 11 mkz w2w with an idatalink ads al ca and ads-al(tb)-fm2 software. So for factory disarm you simply wired a relay to do a NEG, or POS pulse to ign, accy, and gwr from the bypass? I'm a bit confused being gwr is usually a negative and I don't want to zap a bypass dead




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: November 02, 2014 at 3:38 AM

The pulse to the vehicles Ignition and Accessory circuits must be the required (+) polarity and capable of that circuits
current needs.  If you use the R/S's Disarm or GRW outputs to do this, they must be wired to control relays to make the
polarity conversion and supply the current required. 

You didn't mention which Remote Start system you planned to use.  Some of the newer Remote Start units have a
programming option that will do most of this for you.  A few examples below. 

Compustar CS800-s
   Opt 1 Opt 2
1-06    Ign + Acc Pulse With Disarm OFF ON
1-06 Ignition + Accessory Pulse with Disarm – This option will pulse the ignition and accessory wires on CN1 at the
same time the disarm wire pulses. Most new Ford vehicles need the ignition and accessory pulsed to disarm the
factory alarm.

Audiovox Prestige APS687E  Bank 3 options
Opt 1 Opt 2       Opt 3
23rd    Ign & Accy Relays     No Pulse w/Unlock       Pulse Ign, Accy, &   Pulse Ign, Accy, & GWR w/Unlock 
     GWR w/Unlock     Follow 1 S w/ASD Pulse

Basically, to disarm the Factory Alarm system, you must pulse the Ignition and Transponder ( via GWR control input.)
As mentioned, some also believe the Accessory wire must be pulsed.  ( Pulsing the Accessory wire won't hurt things
if it is not needed.)  Perhaps the best description of the process is using DEI Tech Tip 1098, as it has a diagram of the
additional circuits necessary  :  https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=1123



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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: generalgoomz
Date Posted: November 03, 2014 at 1:02 AM
Thanks for the reply, ill be using a viper 4105. The diagram you posted...requires the common terminal to the + keysense wire...i cannot find a listed +keysense wire for the car?

Now I got the need to pulse + ign and accy, but confused on the pulse the transponder and/or +keysense wire...




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: November 03, 2014 at 4:35 AM

Here is an updated photo of the car main ignition connector with the Keysense wire marked.  You can ( and should )
test this wire with your DMM prior to making the required connection.  It should go to +12V when a key is inserted
into the ignition switch.

posted_image

Your Viper 4105 has a GREEN/ BLACK (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM DISARM OUTPUT that is used in TechTip 1098.
Going W2W will make things easy when following TechTip 1098.  The Viper Disarm wire is used to pulse the two
relays and supply the Ignition and Keysense signals, while the Vipers Unlock output will pulse the bypass modules'
GWR input wire.



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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: generalgoomz
Date Posted: November 03, 2014 at 8:13 AM
Thanks a bunch! Shouldn't be an issue now I gotcha





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