2012 Kia Optima R/S w/Keyless Pictorial

2012 KIA Optima

This pictorial is for a remote start / keyless entry system. The vehicle was a U.S. market Optima LX. The U.S. non-PTS vehicles do not have a transponder immobilizer system. All Optima's have a Factory Alarm system.

Disassembly:

Remove Drivers Kick Panel by lifting drivers side sill trim at leading edge, remove snap fastner on DKP bottom edge and gently pry trunk release lever straight away & off shaft. Pull DKP side out and then pull to back of vehicle.

Remove driver side dash panel by prying with non-marring tools as shown ( 4 clips ). ( Also shown are the two Phillips screws that retain the lower dash panel and an alternate +12V constant location at the fuse box. )

Remove drivers side lower dash panel by removing 4 Phillips screws shown ( two in the prior picture), then gently lift tabs ( Green arrows ) and pull panel straight away from dash.

Remove metal knee plate by removing four 10mm bolts marked. Lift up and away.

Remove lower steering column cover by removing two Phillips screws ( one at 9 o'clock and one at 3 o'clock ) and one Phillip[s screw in bottom of cover as shown below.

Below is a picture of the main ignition connector ( disconnected ) with the wires marked. Harness space is tight ( tilt / telescopic ), so you can use the +12V constant wires at the fuse box shown previously.

This is a picture of the Headlight Switch Connector at the steering column with the Parking Light (-) wire marked.

Below is a picture of the fuse box connector with the Alarms, Locks and Trunk Release wires. Please reference Tech Tip 1300 ( Thanks, Ted! ) for more info : https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=1085

Door Pins and Trunk Pin wires are found in this White 24 Pin connector, also.

Below is a picture of the Hood Pin wire at fuse box. This picture is from a 2011 Sonata, the Optima's plug is white but the Hood pin wire is the same color / location ( White 34 Pin Plug, Green wire, left row, 2nd up from bottom ).

Here is a picture of the Brake and Horn wires found in the bottom connector in the DKP.

Here is a picture of a convenient firewall pass-thru for the Tach wire ( This vehicle does not have one-touch starting or built in Anti-Grind.)

Here is one loctaion for the a Tach signal ( engine cover removed ). Another Tach source is at the F.I.'s.

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Soldering is fun!

With the disarm wire, I have only pulsed the orange wire with a negative disarm trigger from the remote start and have been able to disarm the factory alarm. I've never had to diode isolate and use both brown and orange.

Also, does the green wire at the headlight switch for the auto lamps only have to see open for a split second or is it a timed open circuit? I've never used that wire and it would be pretty convenient since you have to go up there for the parking light wire anyways.

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I drink current, eat ohms, and bleed voltage

Good info with that Orange disarm wire. This is the first 2012 Optima I've done ( don't get too many KIA's). I pre-wired on the bench & connected to both Orange & Brown during install. Even tried a double pulse to see if it unlocks the doors too ( like on the Sonata ) but no luck.

I believe the Green AutoHeadlights wire actually needs to be interrupted ( used GWR & relay ) while the engine is running. Just pre-wired a relay during bench prep and installed it that way. Tested by blocking the dash light sensor during a remote start. At key-takeover, the headlights came on. It worked fine so I didn't do any further testing. BTW, this wire and the Parking Light wire are very easy to get to on the Sonata at the BCM. From what I can tell, it doesn't hurt anything if you don't disable the AutoHeadlights during R/S.

Maybe Chev104275 can add some enlightenment...

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Soldering is fun!

Great write up kreg ha ha I've had pic on my phone of this car and a sedona for a month now but can't get them off to post guess I can delete them now

As far as the lights go all I ever use is the pink at the switch and never had a problem or complaint

The locks I use the yellow/black and pink/black just like you did and just the orange for disarm. The only problem I found as with a lot of newer kias is if the car is locked and armed for around a min. The car ingnores the unlock command and won't unlock the car from the interior switch or after market fob. There's a yellow/orange wire in the back of the fuse box. (28 pin connector pin 12) that I doide isolate from the unlock wire (band toward the remote start) and that works for me. I've done dozens this way. I don't usually do arm I'm going to try it on my next one see if it changes anything as far as the locks go that's the only difference I see from yours to mine Hopefully you won't have it come back with the locks not working right

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

I use audiovox units and simply pulse before start the disarm wire, and the lock detection wire (diode isolated from each other obviously). Sometimes a double pulse is needed, but it works very well.

The only other thing I see is that is a GDI motor so the injectors won't work for tach I use the coil and havent had a problem yet      just finished one about 20 mins ago

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

More good info.  Thanks, Joe!  All of the wiring guides list the F.I. wires as a Tach source for the KIA/Hyundai GDI engine but I always found it easier to go to a Spark Plug Coil and like you said, it always works.

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Soldering is fun!

you can also get tach inside the vehicle. GRAY @ DKP WHITE 43 pin plug PIN 4.

glad the document worked for you.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Thanks Ted I'll have to try that tomorrow   unfortunately it seems like everybody wants to wait for there car lately so I have no time to play around and find things like that

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

In the U.S. market LX from the pictorial, I looked but couldn't find that Gray Tach wire.   Pin 4 should be the fourth one up in the far left column.   ( Can't really see that area in the Brake / Horn picture.)   Figured it was only in the turbo or PTS models.  Please get a photo of it to add, Joe. 

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Soldering is fun!

Next one I will look for that wire the one I had to do was canceled so hopefully soon

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

kreg357 wrote:

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In the U.S. market LX from the pictorial, I looked but couldn't find that Gray Tach wire.   Pin 4 should be the fourth one up in the far left column.   ( Can't really see that area in the Brake / Horn picture.)   Figured it was only in the turbo or PTS models.  Please get a photo of it to add, Joe. 

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I've done several of these for the KIA dealer and have only found tach in the DKP on PTS vehicles. Also, I primarily use crimestopper RS4-G3 and always use the fuel injectors for my tach signal with no problem but it all depends on the unit that you are using. The compustar units I use work perfect with the coil but the crimestopper doesn't for some reason.

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I drink current, eat ohms, and bleed voltage

I did 2 2012 reg key optimas this morning both gdi and neither one had the gray tach wire

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

Can anyone identify the (-) unlock wire in the SJB. I need a trigger wire for the remote start so I can use the factory fob. Picture would be awesome.

The (-) Unlock wire is the Yellow/White wire shown in the picture of the White 24 Pin Fuse Box connector.

However, the typical installation of a "Add-On" remote start system that uses the Factory remote for activation usually uses the Lock Motor wire ( not the Unlock Motor wire ). This Lock Motor wire can be found in the Black 39 Pin Plug, Gray wire at Pin 4, in the dash fuse box. It is a 5 wire type and should show a (+) pulse with a lock command.

One point of interest : Once the engine is started, by key or remote starter, the Factory FOB's will no longer function. You will have to open the doors with a key... Due to this, most installers will recommend a R/S w/Keyless Entry system for this vehicle.

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Soldering is fun!

I guess you could use the Unlock Motor wire if you didn't mind having the car unlocked after the remote start-up. The Unlock Motor wire for the drivers door can be found in the Drivers Kick Panel, in a White 56 Pin plug. It is the Red wire at Pin 11. Same 5 wire type setup. Sorry, no picture available.

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Soldering is fun!

Sorry my brain wasn't really working when I posted. What I meant was the (-) lock wire so I can use the lock wire as a trigger. I am new to the forum and I am still learning the terminology. What is important about the five wire setup? Can I not just hook the (-) lock wire you described to the (-) remote activation wire on my remote start? Or, is there something I'm missing?

I have hooked up a crimestopper rs-00 using a Fortin EVO-ALL bypass module in a 2012 Optima with Push to Start. The EVO-ALL does allow the factory FOB to keep working even after the remote start is active. There are two problems I am dealing with.

First: I can't get the lock motor wire to work as my trigger. I am using a relay wired per the instructions on this forum for reversing the (+) lock motor wire to be used as a (-) trigger wire. I cannot get the wire to trigger the remote start. If I touch the trigger on a ground, it will activate the remote start so I know the unit is working properly. The wire I am using is a gray wire from the plug on the rear of the SJB on the passenger side and the one in the picture. Is this the correct wire, and if so, any ideas why it isn't triggering the remote start?



Second: The EVO-ALL said it supports hood switch but the remote start doesn't shut down when I open the hood. Can anyone help me identify the location of the connector and the wire color for the (-) hood wire so I can direct wire the hood shutdown?

Thanks

As far as the hood pin its in the front of the fuse box green kreg has a picture of it in his original post   

I've never used the lock motor wire but all my info says gray black 39 pin plug pin 4   did you test the wire you connected to ?

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

Is the hood pin in the driver side or passenger side plug in the front of the sjb?

I thought the picture I posted was the black 39 pin connector but the wire is only gray. No black stripe. Am I looking in the wrong plug? I tested it and the gray wire has positive that drops on the lock command but doesn't go to zero volts. This is the passenger side connector on the back of the sjb. Am I even in the right connector?

Front of the sjb more towards the right side   

If you can't find the lock wire at the sjb its definitly in the drivers door but I'm willing to bet its at the sjb just need to test to make sure your on the correct wire before you connect.

The way that wire tested it doesn't sounds like its the correct wire. It should be rest at 0 and go to 12 when lock is used.   Maybe try the door harness ?   I can check the next optima I do but it could be a bit I have non planned as of right now

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

So I got everything hooked up today thanks to everyone's help. The lock motor wire in the 2012 push to start is in the front of the SJB. It is in the left hand plug in the #4 position as described by kreg. The only unusual thing is that there are two gray wires in the same #4 position.

A little FYI for others wanting to use the factory key FOB instead of a second FOB. I used a Fortin EVO-ALL bypass module with a wire to wire connection to a crimestopper RS-00 remote start. The EVO-ALL module allows the factory FOB to keep working after the remote start. The FOB continues to perform all the same functions (lock, unlock, trunk pop, panic) while the remote start is active. The FOB ceases to function after takeover from the remote start.

The Fortin Guide listed everything needed to do the install with pictures except the trigger wire which everyone here helped me locate.

There is a 10mm bolt that secures the top of the SJB to the frame of the car. It is a great location to mount the relay used to change the polarity of the (+)lock motor wire to (-) for the trigger required. It can also be used to ground the relay and as a ground for the remote start.

Thanks again to everyone for their help!

Good info.  Thanks for the update! 

U.S. models without PTS ( standard key ignition ) don't require a bypass module.  The Fortin bypass for your car is a good choice.

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Soldering is fun!

Hi I'm new to the forum...I just got a Clifford G5 Anti-High Jacking unit and requires a pulsing (-) for the RPM.. Also my car has PTS and the G5 needs an ignition wire to cut and a wire for the starter to also cut to perform as the immobilizer

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Faithfull Servant Dangerous Master

I am trying to install an avital 4003 with evo-all on my 2012 Optima LX. I get them all wired up and when I connect the power harness to the avital the car always starts up automatically. I've checked the wiring multiple times and am at a loss. Any ideas?

If you move your question over to the install forum you might get more answers. Can you list or your connections also was this a refurbished unit or brand new ?

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

NICE Intall & write up info..........
.pdf for future
THANK YOU

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MO

Don't Learn from Others Mistakes
You Might Be the One That Knows.