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2009-2016 Honda Pilot Remote Start w/Keyless Entry Pictorial

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience - Alarm/Remote Start Pictorials
Forum Discription: Installer submitted Alarm, Keyless Entry, and Remote Start Pictorials from our Car Security and Convenience forum.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=144741
Printed Date: July 24, 2021 at 1:24 PM


Topic: 2009-2016 Honda Pilot Remote Start w/Keyless Entry Pictorial

Posted By: kreg357
Subject: 2009-2016 Honda Pilot Remote Start w/Keyless Entry Pictorial
Date Posted: September 20, 2018 at 9:04 PM

Here is a short Pictorial for a Remote Start w/ Keyless Entry system on a 2009 Honda Pilot. This GEN Pilot
went from 2009 to 2016 and this Pictorial should cover all these vehicles.

This Pilot had the Factory Alarm system, AutoHeadlights, one touch starting and built in Anti-Grind. As such,
no need for an Anti-Grind circuit, or a Tach connection. Interestingly, the Factory Alarm system did not monitor
the Hood or the rear Glass Hatch.   

For this install a Prestige APS57E remote system and an FLCAN bypass module was chosen. There are
many other quality R/S systems available and this vehicle does not have any specific or unusual needs.
The FLCAN bypass module was flashed with ADS AL (DL) HA3 and is a full featured bypass module that
can handle the door locks, alarm, transponder bypass and provide the Brake, Tach and door pin signals.

Vehicle Disassembly :
Not much needs to be removed for the install, just the steering column covers and the left side dash trim
piece ( for easier antenna harness placement ).

Use a non-marring trim tool to remove the dash side trim pictured below :

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To remove the Steering Column covers, remove the three Phillips head screws at the underside of the
steering column shown below :

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Next remove the two screws at the 9 and 3 O'clock position by rotating the steering wheel to expose
these hidden screws indicated below :

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Separate the two cover halves and remove.


Wires :

Below is a photo of the left side of the steering column showing the Headlight Switch connector :

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This is a picture of the Headlight switch plug removed from the connector with the needed wires marked :

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Please note that the Orange AutoHeadlight wire shown is used to ensure the Headlights turn off after
a R/S shutdown due to time-out or remote shutdown at night. Connect the R/S systems (-) GWR wire
to the Orange wire.

Next is a photo of the right side of the steering column with the needed connectors marked.

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Here is a picture of the main ignition connector from Fortin with the ignition wires marked :

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Please note that the Red wire is an Accessory type wire and not needed for this installation.

Below is the Transponder connector removed from its' plug with the necessary wires indicated :

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If you want to make the R/S Horn connection, that plug can be found at the top of the steering column.
Here is a photo :

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Below is a close-up of the plug with the Horn wire indicated:

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As noted, this Pilot had the Factory Alarm system but no Hood Pin switch. The APS57E Hood Pin
wire was passed through the firewall and connected to a mercury tilt switch, as shown below :

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Notes :

The FLCAN was flashed with the ADS AL (DL) HA3 firmware and set to Data Mode. The APS57E
was programmed to ADS protocol for proper D2D communication. Going D2D between the APS57E
and the FLCAN eliminated many wires. Below is an updated Install Guide for the FLCAN using
D2D :

posted_image

Only 6 wires are actually used and only 5 are connected to the vehicle.

The ADS AL (DL) HA3 firmware provides for a Disarm output, so it is not necessary to set either
the R/S system or the bypass module to "Unlock Before and Lock After R/S".

If you use an APS57E, here is the necessary wiring :

APS57E wiring :

Main Ignition Plug
1 Blue (Ign 1)..................................................................Pink at Pilot main ignition switch plug            
2 Red/White (+ 12VDC Relays Ign 1 & Ign 2)......….....White at Pilot main ignition switch plug
3 Green (Ign 2)...............................................................Not Used
4 Purple (Accessory).......................................................Orange at Pilot main ignition switch plug
5 Red (+ 12VDC Relays ACC & Start).........................White at Pilot main ignition switch plug
6 Yellow (Starter).............................................................Yellow at Pilot main ignition switch plug

4 Pin plug
White (Parking Light Relay Output)..............................Grey at Pilot Headlight plug
Black (Chassis Ground)..................................................Chassis Ground
Yellow/Black (To controlling Alarm’s Ign Input)............Not Used
White/Red (Parking Light Relay Input).........................Chassis Ground

14 Pin plug
Black/White (- Horn Output)....................................................Grey at Pilot Clockspring plug
Gray/Black (- Inhibit/Shut Down From Hood Switch)..............to Mercury Tilt switch mounted on hood hinge bolt
LT. Blue (Ground Out While Running).....................................Orange at Pilot Headlight plug
all other wires in this connector are not used

D2D harness to FLCAN
Antenna harness to antenna



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Soldering is fun!



Replies:

Posted By: notaguest
Date Posted: October 22, 2018 at 8:38 AM
Thank you for this. It is very helpful. I am attempting an install myself on a Honda Pilot 2012 and it seems almost all of the wiring and color coding matches to your pictorial. Im brand new at this so I apologize for the dumb questions.

- Why did you use the ADS-AL(DL)-HA3 firmware instead of the DBI-AL(DL)-HA3 firmware for the iDatalink bypass module? What is the difference between the two?
- In your picture of the main ignition connector, you use the orange cable. I was testing my connectors with a volt meter and noticed that the red connector will power up when I set the key to the ACC and stay on during the ignition. The orange cable will drop to 0 when you start the car. Would you be able to tell me whats the difference between the two cables? would it be an issue if I connected the ACC from the remote start module to the RED cable instead of the ORANGE?
- Last, my understanding is that the Bypass module should be able to get all the information from the CAN bus and control the majority of the vehicle behavior. I am having trouble getting the remote starter to trigger the horn or enable the parking lights or even get the status of the Park/Neutral switch. I am specifically using an Avital 4115L RS with an iDatalink ADS-ALCA module. Do you happen to know if other wiring from the Remote starter is required in order to get the system to work properly?

I appreciate the help.




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: October 22, 2018 at 7:29 PM
- Why did you use the ADS-AL(DL)-HA3 firmware instead of the DBI-AL(DL)-HA3 firmware for the iDatalink bypass module? What is the difference between the two?

Good question. You are correct that the APS57E's native D2D language is DBI. I am a long time iDatalink user and have found all their modules / firmware
extremely reliable. The FLCAN that I used is identical to the ADS AL-CA and can utilize DBI or ADS protocol on the D2D port. Being as the bypass module
is doing most of the work and the APS57E can be programmed to ADS on the D2D port, I always run the R/S unit in ADS and use the iDatalink module running
in its' native protocol. Never had an issue going that way. But it could have worked using DBI on both modules, it's just what I feel more comfortable
using. Call it Installer Preferrence.

- In your picture of the main ignition connector, you use the orange cable. I was testing my connectors with a volt meter and noticed that the red connector will power up when I set the key to the ACC and stay on during the ignition. The orange cable will drop to 0 when you start the car. Would you be able to tell me whats the difference between the two cables? would it be an issue if I connected the ACC from the remote start module to the RED cable instead of the ORANGE?

Most wire listings for that vehicle show the Orange and Red ignition wires as ACC's. I'm not sure exactly what each wire supplies but in this case I always
follow the bypass module's wiring guide. All three bypass module manufactures ( XPressKit, Fortin and iDatalink ) all show the same connections at the
ignition switch harness, Orange as ACC and Red not used. I would follow thier recommendation.

- Last, my understanding is that the Bypass module should be able to get all the information from the CAN bus and control the majority of the vehicle behavior. I am having trouble getting the remote starter to trigger the horn or enable the parking lights or even get the status of the Park/Neutral switch. I am specifically using an Avital 4115L RS with an iDatalink ADS-ALCA module. Do you happen to know if other wiring from the Remote starter is required in order to get the system to work properly?

The Avital 4115L does not give you any options with the D2D protocol. It's DBI or nothing. You should flash the ADS AL-CA with the DBI HA3 firmware
and go D2D.   Here is where it gets complicated. The 4115L is looking for a Neutral Safety input. I believe it will use the bypass modules D2D
supplied EBrake Status signal. That means that you must have the EBrake on to R/S the Pilot. If that is something you would prefer not to do, you
can do this. In the ADS AL-CA w/HA3 options you can turn OFF the EBrake output. Then you would run the 4115L's Neutral Safety wire to Chassis
Ground ( all Pilots are Auto Trans ). Next take a look at the ADS AL-CA with DBI HA3 firmware install guide #39063 page 2 of 9. It gives you a
chart that details what functions are handled by the bypass module for each vehicle application. With the Pilot, it does everything except the
Trunk and Sliding Doors ( which you don't have ). The AutoLights column just means that the bypass module with ensure the Headlights will turn
off after a R/S shutdown at night if the headlight switch is left in Auto, saving you from a dead battery. As for the Parking Lights and the
Horn, those are manual connections you must make from the 4115L. They are not handled by the bypass module. Those connections are shown in
the Pictorial. The Horn is a direct connection from the 4115L but there is required programming. See Menu 1 Feature 1. The Default is OFF.
If you want Horn beeps, you must program it to Option 2 thru 5, whichever one gives you a long enough horn output. For the Parking Lights, you
must ensure that the 4115L's Parking Light jumper is set to (-). It's a three pin jack on the side of the 4115L and the jumper goes over two
pins. The (+) and (-) positions are molded into the black plastic body of the 4115L, bottom side of module. Use a flashlight to see it. It
probably comes set to (+).


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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: notaguest
Date Posted: October 24, 2018 at 8:39 AM
Thank you for your help. I was able to finish my installation. Your instructions provided great guidance master yoda.

The 4115L required these connections:
--> Chassis Ground [H1/8 BLACK]: Because it needs a ground.
--> Light Flash Output [H1/9 WHITE]: Just like you said, it needed to be connected for the parking lights notification from the R/S. I was able to find a line below the internal fuse box that triggered on positive, so no jumper change was required to the R/S Jumper setting.
--> Horn [H1/5 BROWN]: Connected the horn at the top of the steering column just like your picture showed.
--> Neutral Safety Switch [H2/1 BLACK/WHITE]: This was connected to the ground with a switch in the way to act as a kill switch of the R/S. It seems that even though the bypass can provide this information the 4115L does not use it. Because my car is AT the car already has the safety kills to prevent the car from starting if its in any other gear than parking or neutral. I tested this and the R/S will turn on the accessories, but the vehicle will not start at all.
--> Heavy Gauge relay interface: All connections except the programmable output (PINK/WHITE). The only thing I did different was that I used the RED wire, on the vehicle side, for the ACC connection.

The Bypass module required all the connections called out by its own manual.

The tricky part was then finally finding a location on where to mount the modules underneath the dashboard.

Here is another forum thread I had started with some information I might have missed in this post (link)




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: October 24, 2018 at 8:35 PM
Good job. Yes, the Parking Lights are another area where Installer Preference comes into play. All R/S
systems provide for both (+) and (-) Parking Lights outputs and I generally like using the (-) output
if possible as it uses less current. Being as you used the other ACC vehicle wire you should verify
that the Heat and A/C controls work and the fan is fully functional. That's all you really need with
the R/S. Enjoy your upgraded Pilot!

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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: notaguest
Date Posted: October 30, 2018 at 8:53 AM
Thank you for the help! Good call on the AC connection. My air and heat were not working when I started the car from the RS. I had to connect the second ign cable from the RS.




Posted By: wyciwug
Date Posted: December 16, 2018 at 2:02 AM
Hello Kreg

I am using Idatalink but 4806v remote start.   Which wire from RS used to connect to Orange auto headlight on the car?

Thanks

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DCD




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: December 16, 2018 at 8:51 AM
Might depend on a few things.

Are you going W2W or D2D between the 4806V and the bypass module?
If D2D then you can use either the Dark Blue (-) Status Output or the
Blue/White 2nd Status Output ( if you have no plans on using this wire for the Rear Defroster ).

If you are going W2W with the bypass module, your only choice is the latter, Blue/White 2nd Status wire.

From another post I see you are going D2D with an ADS AL-CA bypass module. A few things to point out.

Ensure you flash the ADS AL-CA with the DBI-AL(DL)-HA3 firmware and set the modules Installation Mode
to Data ( 1 blink ) and lock it in prior to vehicle programming.

It's possible that the above mentioned AutoHeadlight connection isn't necessary. The bypass module
might do this for you via its' R.A.P. feature that unlocks and relocks the doors after a R/S engine
shutdown.





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Soldering is fun!





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