Print Page | Close Window

Boat Stereo System

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Marine Electronics
Forum Discription: Boat Stereos, Security, Navigation, Lights, Switches, Gauges, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=70899
Printed Date: April 25, 2024 at 3:03 PM


Topic: Boat Stereo System

Posted By: jgpenner
Subject: Boat Stereo System
Date Posted: January 16, 2006 at 10:26 AM

Hi,

I am currently installing a new stereo system into my boat.  I purchased 4 speakers, a head unit, and an AMP.  I wanted to install the system with a second battery as the power source.  I would like to keep this second battery separate from the main electricial system.  How would you recommend installing and what supplies would I need?

Thanks for any help.



Replies:

Posted By: DYohn
Date Posted: January 16, 2006 at 11:04 AM
How do you plan to recharge the battery?

-------------
Support the12volt.com




Posted By: jgpenner
Date Posted: January 16, 2006 at 11:35 AM

I have a 92 Bayliner with an outboard engine.  I do not believe that the current system is being recharged when the engine is running.  This is the main reason why I do not want to tie into the existing electricial system.  Due to no recharging, I was considering getting a marine solar power battery charger.  It is really inexpensive and should do the trick.

For now, I was going to charge both batteries before I head out on the water.





Posted By: DYohn
Date Posted: January 16, 2006 at 11:48 AM
OK.  Then all you need is to wire the radio and the amp directly to the battery (using the proper size fuses to protect the wiring.)  If you want it to be neat, a distribution block might be useful.  Depending on how large the battery is and how large the amplifier is, the battery may supply the system for several hours, or it could drain the battery in minutes.  I suggest a marine-grade deep-cycle battery.

-------------
Support the12volt.com




Posted By: jgpenner
Date Posted: January 16, 2006 at 12:06 PM

If I used a distribution block:

- I would run both pos and neg to the distribution block in front of the boat (battery in back of boat).

- Run a second power wire from the amp to the pos terminal on the battery.

- Ground the amp to the distribution block.

- Run power and ground wires from the distribution block to the head unit.

- install inline fuses on all power wires

If the above is correct, would it be possible to run a toggle switch to cut the power? Since the power would not be connected to a switch, I was thinking of trying to install a "master switch" that would cut the power to the amp and head unit off.  Where would I install this, between the battery and distribution block?

Thanks for your help!





Posted By: DYohn
Date Posted: January 16, 2006 at 12:37 PM
I would run a power and ground cable from the battery to your mounting location with a fuse suitable to the cable size located near the battery.  Connect these to two distribution blocks, one for positive and the other for ground.  Then connect your HU and amp to the distribution blocks.  No need for any other wires to the battery, just use the proper size cables (see the Power and Ground link on the left.)  If you want to be able to disconnect the power from the battery, you could either simply pull the main positive fuse (the easy way) or wire in a relay or circuit breaker in line with the main power.

-------------
Support the12volt.com




Posted By: jgpenner
Date Posted: January 16, 2006 at 1:58 PM

According to the power and ground link, I would need 4 gage power and ground wires from my battery to distribution blocks.  I would then need 8 gage power and ground wires from the distribution block to the amp.  Since my head unit has 16 gage power and ground wires, would it be okay to connect these to the distribution blocks?   Thanks again.





Posted By: DYohn
Date Posted: January 16, 2006 at 3:02 PM
Yes, that sounds great.  Remember to fuse the wires!

-------------
Support the12volt.com




Posted By: jgpenner
Date Posted: January 16, 2006 at 3:45 PM
Thanks!  I assume that you are talking about inline fuses on all power wires, correct?




Posted By: forbidden
Date Posted: January 16, 2006 at 4:40 PM
Correct!

-------------
Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.




Posted By: joeymeier
Date Posted: January 16, 2006 at 7:02 PM
Unless something is wrong on your Bayliner, If you checked the battery with a volt meter before and after cranking the engine, You should find the outboard to have a alternator on it. You might want to install a  Perko style battery switch which would allow you recharge the stereo battery while running the motor and would keep the boat battery safe from discharge from the stereo..




Posted By: vwgolf1128
Date Posted: January 16, 2006 at 8:41 PM
If your getting a second battery, try to conceal it as much as possible since I have had batteries stolen before just having one.

-------------
Volkswagen Golf
Alpine CDA-9851
Alpine MRD-M501
Alpine 12" Type R Ported
Alpine Guy is my hero




Posted By: jgpenner
Date Posted: January 17, 2006 at 7:46 AM

Two questions:

1. If I installed two batteries, how do you connect them together? 

2. What readings should I see on the volt meter before and after the engine is running?





Posted By: joeymeier
Date Posted: January 17, 2006 at 7:47 PM
A Normal battery in its fully charged state will read around 12.5 volts with no load on it (lights, radio off). The output of your alternator should be around 13.8-14.2. You may need to raise the idle to check the voltage while the engine is running. A Perko battery switch allows you  to connect both batteries to a rotary style switch and then you can select battery 1 or battery 2 or both or off. If you normally run the boat for a season without recharging thr battery, i bet you will find  14 or so volt at the battery while it is running. Do a google search for Perko battery switch.





Print Page | Close Window