dei valet 561r 2005 dodge ram
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=100143
Printed Date: May 10, 2025 at 9:28 AM
Topic: dei valet 561r 2005 dodge ram
Posted By: jasoncw
Subject: dei valet 561r 2005 dodge ram
Date Posted: December 17, 2007 at 7:37 PM
Hi everyone. After much reading up on this forum, I found tons of info on how to install my RS. I have done a few simple 12V wiring, but not too often. I just want to make sure I have everything covered. I would greatly appreciate if someone could take a look at how I plan to wire it up and give me any feedback. I used this PDF file (link found on this forum) to determine the correct vehicle wiring. I also verified they are accurate based on my service manual. This file is the Excel file that shows how I plan to wire the RS. As you can see in the file, I think the only add'l relays I need are the 2 for the door locks. Also, I'm unsure of how to hook up a couple of the wires. TIA for any input. Jason
Replies:
Posted By: Twelvoltz
Date Posted: December 17, 2007 at 8:26 PM
If your truck is equipped with a factory alarm you might consider using the PURPLE / light blue wire to both arm and disarm the factory alarm in addition to locking and unlocking the doors. Take a look at the factory alarm arm info at the bottom of the link you posted, it describes it in detail. You will have to tie in the factory alarm disarm wire to the unlock relay as well. If I were doing the job I would also hook up the factory alarm rearm wire to the lock relay. This would re-arm the factory alarm if the remote start were to time out.
If your truck has gray colored keys you will need a bypass module.
You need to power the pink/white and the pink light/green as ignition. You also need to power the dark blue and 16ga pink / YELLOW as accessory. This means you will have to use at least one relay for the additional accessory wire. Use the low current orange accessory output to trigger your relay for this.
The WHITE/ red and WHITE/ blue wires would not be required since you are using the 561r's remotes. These are used to activate the RS via an outside source.
The RED / white is for a second channel output, used typically for a trunk release.
As far as the parking light output is concerned you can either split it and send it to each side for positive trigger, use a relay and a 590ohm resistor to the parking wire at the switch, or just take a negative trigger out to the relay box under the dash. When you turn on the parking lights in the truck it activates a relay in that box up front. If I remember correctly it is the second relay from the front of the box. Take a look at that relay and you will see it is a standard bosch style relay. Use your probe to find the pin that goes to ground when the head light switch is turned to the parking light position. Tap your negative output to that leg of the relay.
The BLACK/ white neutral safety input should run through the provided toggle switch with the other end to ground.
I would recommend using the coil wire instead of an injector. If you do use an injector for tach signal you will have to raise the idle a little to program the tach. If you do not you will find that when you try to remote start the truck it will just tap the starter instead of cranking it.
What wires are you not sure about?
Hope I didn't miss anything.
-------------
Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.
Posted By: jasoncw
Date Posted: December 17, 2007 at 9:07 PM
Thanks for the very quick and thorough reply. Sorry, I forgot to mention that I have neither a factory alarm nor the Sentry, so those are a couple less items I need to worry about. Thanks for the tip on the coil/injector. As for the neutral safety switch, I wasn't aware that was simply supposed to be switched to ground. Can't get much simpler than that. For the ignition/accessory, I wasn't aware that I needed the second ignition. So that would be wired to the RS PK/WT, correct? Then I would use a relay powered by the first accessory to run the second accessory?
Posted By: jasoncw
Date Posted: December 28, 2007 at 8:19 PM
I found a couple threads that posted the resistors needed for the power locks on the 2005 Dodge Ram (330 ohm and 880 ohm). Radio Shack stocks the 330, but they do not carry an 880. Can I use a 1k, or a combination of resistors to get the proper resistance? TIA Jason
Posted By: jasoncw
Date Posted: December 28, 2007 at 8:40 PM
I guess a better question would be, how close does the resistance need to be to 880 ohms? I could get that by wiring a couple 330's and a 220 in series, but what about wiring a 1.5k and 2.2k in parallel? Is 892 ohms close enough? TIA Jason
Posted By: aziegler
Date Posted: December 28, 2007 at 8:53 PM
I just used a 1Kohm on the power locks (2005 Ram 3500) and it is working fine. I installed an Autopage rs727 so I also needed to use a relay on the Wht/Grn for the parking light at the headlight switch location. This was done through a 330ohm resister. It looks like you are off to a good start.
Posted By: jasoncw
Date Posted: December 28, 2007 at 10:12 PM
Thanks for the input. I guess I will try it out and see what happens. :)
Posted By: jasoncw
Date Posted: December 30, 2007 at 12:00 PM
Sorry for such a noob question, but what is the purpose of the relay for the (-) parking lamp circuit? I have the option of either hooking up straight to the (+) wires, or to hook to the (-), I need to run a relay with a resistor. Is the sole purpose to lower the voltage? TIA Jason
Posted By: jasoncw
Date Posted: December 30, 2007 at 12:46 PM
Also, here is how I plan to wire the parking lamp relay. Please let me know whether it is accurate. Thanks! Jason 
Posted By: aziegler
Date Posted: December 30, 2007 at 12:53 PM
Jason, Some of the circuits comming from your rs for your lights or locks etc cannot handle the load required to run the accessory you are asking. When this is the case it is usually identified with a (-)200mA capacity or another value indicated with a milliamp rating. You then use this low capacity circuit as a trigger for a relay that is designed to handle a much larger load. AZ
Posted By: jasoncw
Date Posted: December 30, 2007 at 1:04 PM
That makes sense, and thanks a lot for the input. Does my relay diagram above appear accurate? Jason
Posted By: aziegler
Date Posted: December 30, 2007 at 2:04 PM
Looks good, It doesn't matter which side of the relay your resister is installed.
Posted By: jasoncw
Date Posted: December 30, 2007 at 2:35 PM
Great. Thanks again for the input, AZ. Jason
Posted By: jasoncw
Date Posted: December 31, 2007 at 9:39 PM
Well, this was my first install, so I don't know why I was expecting it to work the first time around... :( The starter is not engaging at all, so I will need to diagnose it tomorrow to see what is getting power. The question I have, though, is in regards to the locks. When it unlocks, it appears to be doing a double pulse, because it unlocks the doors, then locks them again. However, the RS is set for 1 pulse. When I program the RS to 2 pulses, it will unlock, lock, then unlock again. Any ideas what might be causing this? It appears to be locking fine. One additional note: the parking lamps flash once when it locks, but they do not flash at all when it unlocks. Is this normal? TIA Jason
Posted By: jasoncw
Date Posted: January 01, 2008 at 4:48 PM
Door Locks The lock signal works fine. When I pull the lock relay, the unlock works fine. So it appears as though when it unlocks, the unlock signal is sent, followed by a lock signal. Why would this be happening? No Start I checked for voltage to both red wires to the RS, and the RS is getting voltage. When I turn the key on, all other power wires (2 ign and 1 acc) are getting power. The RS doesn't appear to be engaging at all when I try to remote start it, since none of the accessories or anything come on. I checked all the wires, and they appear to be properly connected, so I am at a stand still. Any input? TIA Jason
Posted By: jasoncw
Date Posted: January 01, 2008 at 8:27 PM
Here is a pic of exactly how I hooked everything up. Please let me know whether it is accurate. Thanks, guys. Jason 
Posted By: jasoncw
Date Posted: January 01, 2008 at 8:28 PM
Whoops, forgot to mention I hooked the tach wire to a coil pack wire that was not the common (BR/WT), and I performed the tach learn on the RS. Jason
Posted By: jasoncw
Date Posted: January 02, 2008 at 3:57 PM
Bump for the afternoon shift.  Any input is appreciated. Jason
Posted By: jasoncw
Date Posted: January 03, 2008 at 12:11 PM
Bump again. I realized that I did not connect one of the accessory wires (PK/YL 14 AWG). This is listed as the 2nd accessory, although the 1st accessory lists 2 wires. Does anyone know what this powers? Could this be the source of the RS not even engaging any accessories? I wouldn't think so, but...
Posted By: aziegler
Date Posted: January 04, 2008 at 10:39 AM
I was looking at your chat above. I'm not sure what your "Status Output" Blue wire is or why you are feeding it through a relay from your accessory wire. This should have no effect on the starting issue. Have you had any luck on getting it to start? If not here are a couple things to check for: 1) I'm not familiar with DEI programming options, but I would read through them keying in on options dealing with the "Voltage Sencing", "Tach Sensing", "Timer Mode". I don't see that you identified where you hooked up your tach sencing wire. Make sure you are using the timer mode if not using the tach wire. The system may be looking for a signal on the tach wire that isn't hooked up. 2) Make sure all connectors on the RS are plugged in fully. 3) Make sure your switch in-line on your neutural safety switch circuit is functioning and in the correct position so there is a ground on that wire. The system will not operate without that ground. 4) I see you did not use the hood safety switch. Make sure that that wire is not inadvertently touching a ground. 5) Make sure you have a good system ground. If you havn't corrected the door lock issue yet ai would focus on the system programing. My Autopage RS has five or six different programing options for the lock/unlock circuit. You should look for a single (-) pulse for the lock with a double (-) unlock pulse. If your have duration options I set mine at 0.8 seconds for each pulse duration. AZ
Posted By: jasoncw
Date Posted: January 04, 2008 at 1:58 PM
Thank you very much for your input, AZ. I am using the status wire simply for the (-) trigger for the relay to activate the second accessory from the first accessory. I know there were many different options for this, but this is just the one I chose. I am going to publicly humiliate myself now. The RS does work. I have never installed one before, and I have owned 3 different vehicles with remote starts. For all 3 of the vehicles, the RS activated with a 2 second, single-pulse input. After looking through the install manual (for the 100th time), I see that you can program the activation input for 1, 2, or 3 pulses. And sure enough, the default is 2 pulses. I just tested it, and it started right up.  I am still having trouble with the door locks, though. Like I mentioned, the lock works fine. For unlock, I tried both 1 and 2 pulses. When I have it set to 1 pulse, it will unlock, then lock. If I have it set to 2 pulses, it will unlock, lock, then unlock. Very odd. I do not see an option for setting the length of the pulse for the lock/unlock input. Would it be possible to change the activation pulses to 3, then wire up my (-) ground lead from the lock wire to the activation input, so that I don't need the remote from my RS? That way I wouldn't need the lock relays at all, and I could use my factory fob to activate it by hitting the lock button 3 times. Is that possible? Thanks again for your input, AZ. Jason
Posted By: Twelvoltz
Date Posted: January 04, 2008 at 2:07 PM
jasoncw wrote:
Would it be possible to change the activation pulses to 3, then wire up my (-) ground lead from the lock wire to the activation input, so that I don't need the remote from my RS?
Use the + activation input (WHITE/ red) to the door lock actuator's lock leg, and set the unit to require 3 pulses. This way you can use either the 561R remote by pressing star 3x or by using the factory remote and press lock 3x. The Dodge remotes work fine when the vehicle is running on remote start. This is actually how I wire up most of my RS units for vehicles that have remotes built into the keys. Gives the owner the option of carrying just the key or the key and new remote. ------------- Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.
Posted By: jasoncw
Date Posted: January 04, 2008 at 2:14 PM
That's what I wanted to hear! Thanks! From what I understand, my door locks operate through a (-) trigger, so I assume I would use a relay to convert the polarity for the (+) activation input? Or are you referring to a different wire? Sorry for the 12V ignorance... Jason
Posted By: atrus
Date Posted: January 04, 2008 at 3:43 PM
Jason, if you look at the same harness that the 12V+ input is on, there's a white wire with blue stripe shown that indicates a 12V- input. I think this may work. I am going to give it a shot on mine. Twelvoltz, so you have to hook this up to the lock actuator, can't be tapped into the lock/unlock wire? I assume the change in resistance will make it work funky or something? Is there anywhere else it could be tapped into without having to rip the door panel off? Possibly a leg on the lock relay?
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