2003 lexus is300 viper 5900

I've finished installing a VIPER 5900 into my car. Everything works, except for the remote start.

Here's the vehicle wiring diagram: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~3957

Relay Satellite wires connections:

BLACK/ White starter wire is cut.

(Purple) starter ouput is connected to the starter side.

(Green) starter input is connected to the key side.

(Red) constant 12V is connected to (White) constant 12V

(Orange) accessory is connected to (Red) Accessory

(Pink) Primary ignition is connected to (RED / Black) Primary Ignition

(Red) constant 12V is connected to (WHITE/ Red) constant 12V

(Pink) 2nd ignition is connected to (Blue/Red) 2nd Ignition

(RED / White) 12V is connected to (WHITE/ Red) constant 12V

Diagnoses

7-pin satellite relay ribbon harness is firmly press in on both in. Neutral safety switch is grounded. Hood pinch switch is not grounded, and even removed at one point to diagnosed. Brake Switch is installed and functional. Tach learning was completed, verified by the LED staying constantly lit, and measure with a DMM to see if AC voltage changes with RPM.

When I press the remote start button, or ground the (blue/white) activation input wire 2 times, the car goes throught the remote start procedure. The relay inside the XCRS clicks (I even have it opened up), upon remote starting. The starter cranks for less than a second, and everything just resets back to normal. The car never starts. Even with the key in the ignition, in the off position, it does the same thing. Note: car starts when I turn the key like normal.

I tried the "pit stop" method. Start the car with the key, press the remote start button, remove the key out of the ignition, and the car stays running, with the remote start status displaying on my pager. Next, I leave the key in the run position, press the remote start button, and the car goes through the remote start setting(parking lights  & dash lights keep blinking, remote start status shows on pager), but the starter never turns over.

Satellite Relay Diagnoses

With the XCRS opened, I grounded the (purple 4-pin harness) 200mA 2nd starter output wire and the starter turns over and the car starts. With a DMM, I tested the the (Purple) starter output wire during the remote start process, and it only puts out 12V for less than a second, not long enough for the starter to fully turnover. The 3 (red) 12V input wires, accessory, and ignition wires all received 12V correctly. There is, however, one thing that I'm not sure about. The (yellow) (+)ignition input to remote start wire, on the 7-pin satellite relay ribbon harness, only reads 12V when I turn the key into run and start position. But when I remote start it, it reads nothing, or stays the same. What is this wire suppose to read?

Menu/Features changes

I tried changing the tach sensing to voltage sensing, and still no luck. Changed the Voltage high to Voltage low sensing, and still doesn't work. Turn off engine check feature, and remote start still doesn't work.

I've spent days reading this forum, and others, browse the internet for solutions, and have came up with nothing. I'm starting to feel like its hopeless. The only thing I can think of is that the brain is bad, or the XCRS is. I refused to bring my car to a shop around here. I take great pride in my work, and went great distance to keep my installation as neat and expert-like as possible, something the local installers around here aren't willing to do unless you pay one month worth of salary. Any advice is greatly appreciated.:)

Twelvoltz wrote:

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Check the 'shutdown' diagnostics for your system and post your results.

If the system is not trying to restart three times then the system believes it was told to shut down. Posting the shutdown diagnostics should assist in troubleshooting.

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Thanks for the reply.

The 'shutdown' diagnostics shows 6 LED flashes. Which means either the hoodpin or brake switch is triggered. The brake switch is functioning correctly, cause when I used the 'pit stop' method, the car shuts off when I step on the brake. I will go back to make sure it does not have 12V, when not stepped on. The hoodpin, I even took it out at one point, but it still won't remote start. When I popped the hood, with the alarm triggered, the alarm goes off. With the hood open, the remote start will not even engage at all.

Can you answer my question regarding the, yellow (+)ignition input to remote start, on the relay ribbon harness? Is it suppose to show 12V when remote start is activated? It does show 12V when the key is used to turn on the car.

Chris Luongo wrote:

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It's been a while since I worked on an IS, but I'm thinking that maybe it has two starter wires. At the ignition harness, carefully test all of the other wires that you haven't connected to.

Sounds like your tach is good, but if you want to make sure, temporarily reprogram for voltage sensing, and 1.0 seconds crank time, and see if that makes a difference.

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Chris, there is only 6 wires on the ignition connector, and I've verified that with the Electrical Wiring Diagram of the car. There is only one starter wire (BLACK/ white).

I've already tried changing the engine check, to voltage sensing, and had the crank time set to 2 seconds, and even 4 seconds. The remote start still cranks for less than a second.

But if the, yellow (+)ignition input to remote start, wire is supposed to have 12V during/while remote start, it doesn't. I will try and jump this wire, with the (pink) Primary Ignition wire and see what happens upon remote start.

Thanks for the reply, and please come back.

howie ll wrote:

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Chris, I think you hit the nail on the head with your last comment.  From what our friend said and I might add beautifullyand concisely wrote, it sounds like crank time, although he hasn,t  mentioned a transponder by-pass. I usually find that adding a by-pass requires the crank time to be extended, also it might be advisable to check when engine hot and cold, there might be a cold start device rather than a second starter that we are missing. N.B. Not mentioned but the best place to pick up tach on these vehicles  is the black wire with silver dots on the OBD II socket under dash.

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I tried my best to make it easy for others to read, so that  they can assist me.

I do have a bypass, the DEI 555X. It is hookup, and works. I know this cause when I press the remote start button, the remote start sequence takes place, but does the same thing when the (blue/white) activation input wire is grounded. It cranks for less than a second, and nothing happens after that. I even removed the bypass, return all the wires back to normal, and it still does the same thing.

All my connections are soldered, heat shrinked, loomed(the completed wires) and black-taped. So, the chance of a bad joint connections are unlikely.

The tach wire gives a reading between 2 and 6V, I don't remember right now, while the car is running, and fluctuates as the RPM goes up and down. I will try and put the car in 'pit stop' mode, and over-rev the engine to see if the remote start automatically shuts off or not. Thank you for your reply, and please check back. This situtation is driving me crazy. I don't know if I'm doing something wrong, or if I have a bad product

Okay, so after trying all the above mentioned, I decided to see why the 'shutdown' diagnostic test keeps showing 6 LED flashes, which means the hood/brake trigger is tripping the alarm, causing it not to remote start. Like previously mentioned, my alarm does trigger when the hood is open, and operates like normal when it's closed.

This time I tried depinning the (gray)hood trigger wire again, from the connector, and lord behold, it started right up. I was almost in tears. When I reconnected the wire, it remote started again. Then I drove home, from AutoZone(my battery has previously died this morning from many failed remote start attempt, so I parked at Autozone for quick roadside assistance), but this time it did not startup. I wiggled the wire around in the connector for a few seconds, and retried, but still doesn't work. So, I depinned the wire, remote start, and it works again.

Seems like the wire has a bad connection with the connector, or there is a breakage somewhere in the wire. Either way, my remote start works now, and I'm sure I can troubleshoot the rest of the wire. At this time I have no hood trigger input for the alarm, but my factory security does, so I'm temporarily safe from intruders. That and my alarm will trigger if they attempt to disconnect my battery, thanks to my DEI 520T backup battery.

In conclusion, I want to thank everyone who has given me inputs, and anyone who stop by and even thought about it. I appreciate the help

Well, it seems I still have a problem. When I wait for a few minutes after I armed the car, the trunk release will trigger the factory alarm when I try to pop it. It also does this when I remote start the car. I thought the bypass module suppose to take care of the factory alarm during remote start? Is anyone else having this problem?