2003 chevy silverado hd rs problems
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=100318
Printed Date: May 02, 2024 at 10:03 PM
Topic: 2003 chevy silverado hd rs problems
Posted By: foxgt
Subject: 2003 chevy silverado hd rs problems
Date Posted: December 22, 2007 at 1:22 PM
Hey guys, I am installing an Autostart AS-1452V Remote Starter on a 2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax Diesel. I used the DEI 1700G as the interface and passlock bypass. I have however run into a few problems with the remote start itself. I am relatively new to installing remote starts, but I am familiar with relays, wiring, etc. If any of you can help to answer some of my questions it would be great. 1. First off, after remote start, the theft light would come on once the remote starter was disengaged (by placing key in ign., turning to on/run and pressing the brake pedal). I called tech support about this and they said it was due to a voltage fluctuation that triggered the theft light when the bypass module turned off. They recommended me to hook up a relay as follows:
85 - Ground When Running (between RS module and the Bypass module)
86 - Ignition wire
87a - N/A
87 - Ground When Running (Jumper between 85 and 87)
30 - Ground
I assume this creates a ground loop that keeps the bypass module running. This fixed my problem, however the trucks batteries have been completely stone dead two mornings in a row (has two deep cycle optima yellow top batteries). Could this relay be latched on and drawing power, draining the vehicles batteries overnight? 2. Second problem, is interfacing with the wait to start wire. Wiring diagrams listed the WTS wire as (-) at teh back of the instrument cluster. However the Glow Plug input of the RS is (+). What is the correct way to hook this up with a relay? I do have the RS setup to have an automatic delay so that it waits long enough to start the truck, but I assume it is important to also have the glow plug input hooked up. 3. When the truck is remote started, half the time some of the guages do not work on the dashboard, most notably the fuel gauge, oil pressure and temperature. what could be causing this? They work fine when the car is started with the key. 4. and finally, when i went to remove the remote start unit from the truck until the problem can be further diagnosed, I noticed that moving it even slightly causes the truck to randomly lock/unlock, and it even remote started on its own. Could this be a faulty unit? I hope that you guys dont mind all the questions, but I have been trying to figure this out for a while. Any help at all would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Replies:
Posted By: chriswallace187
Date Posted: December 22, 2007 at 3:04 PM
foxgt] wrote:
1. First off, after remote start, the theft light would come on once the remote starter was disengaged (by placing key in ign., turning to on/run and pressing the brake pedal). I called tech support about this and they said it was due to a voltage fluctuation that triggered the theft light when the bypass module turned off. They recommended me to hook up a relay as follows:
85 - Ground When Running (between RS module and the Bypass module)
86 - Ignition wire
87a - N/A
87 - Ground When Running (Jumper between 85 and 87)
30 - Ground
I assume this creates a ground loop that keeps the bypass module running. This fixed my problem, however the trucks batteries have been completely stone dead two mornings in a row (has two deep cycle optima yellow top batteries). Could this relay be latched on and drawing power, draining the vehicles batteries overnight?
That's a possibility. What I would try first is getting rid of that jumper. It makes more sense to me that you'd want the 1700G's GWR input completely isolated from the remote start's output, and only coming on with ignition.
foxgt] wrote:
2. Second problem, is interfacing with the wait to start wire. Wiring diagrams listed the WTS wire as (-) at teh back of the instrument cluster. However the Glow Plug input of the RS is (+). What is the correct way to hook this up with a relay? I do have the RS setup to have an automatic delay so that it waits long enough to start the truck, but I assume it is important to also have the glow plug input hooked up.
If your remote start can delay it automatically, the WTS input won't be necessary. That's the only purpose of that wire.
Also I'm not sure if your silverado is like the one at my fire dept.(also a duramax diesel)...but ours doesn't even require a delay when starting, you just turn the key straight to crank and it starts right up. If that's the case, you can do without the delay altogether.
foxgt] wrote:
3. When the truck is remote started, half the time some of the guages do not work on the dashboard, most notably the fuel gauge, oil pressure and temperature. what could be causing this? They work fine when the car is started with the key.
4. and finally, when i went to remove the remote start unit from the truck until the problem can be further diagnosed, I noticed that moving it even slightly causes the truck to randomly lock/unlock, and it even remote started on its own. Could this be a faulty unit?
I hope that you guys dont mind all the questions, but I have been trying to figure this out for a while. Any help at all would be greatly appreciated.
It's a possible faulty unit, but first check your connections to make sure you don't have wires shorted, and that all the exposed ends of unused wires are taped properly.
------------- C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
Posted By: foxgt
Date Posted: December 23, 2007 at 6:21 PM
thanks chriswallace187. Ill be sure to check all wires for possible
anyone else have ideas about my problems before I tackle it tomorrow morning?
and what about the gauge problem when the truck is remote started? Some of the time they work, but more often than not they do not
Posted By: foxgt
Date Posted: December 24, 2007 at 10:36 AM
alright, ive taken the unit out and checked all wires for shorts and none exist. The problem with moving the brain has been eliminated, however I still have to solve the theft light issue. When the key is put in the ignition after remote start, and the RS is disengaged, the theft light comes on. Does anyone know a way to be rid of this problem?
Customer support recommended the relay hooked up as shown in my first post above, but I fear that may be drawing power from the truck, although it doesnt seem like it would. If anyone else has any other recommendations it would be greatly appreciated
Posted By: usabuilt
Date Posted: December 24, 2007 at 11:00 AM
did you make sure you hooked up 2nd ign wire and access and it powers up properly?? also does the theft light come on when you turn the key on or step on the brake pedal? if it happens when you turn your key on it could mean you missed a ign wire somewhere, if it happenens when you press the brake pedal I would check to make sure you GWR wire is not staying gounded.
the gages not working would seem to point to you missing an ign wire though or it could even be a bad harness comming from the starter module, check your ign and accessory wires with a meter when you remote start the truck to be sure everything is getting voltage at start-up.
Posted By: foxgt
Date Posted: December 24, 2007 at 11:38 AM
usabuilt wrote:
did you make sure you hooked up 2nd ign wire and access and it powers up properly?? also does the theft light come on when you turn the key on or step on the brake pedal? if it happens when you turn your key on it could mean you missed a ign wire somewhere, if it happenens when you press the brake pedal I would check to make sure you GWR wire is not staying gounded.
the gages not working would seem to point to you missing an ign wire though or it could even be a bad harness comming from the starter module, check your ign and accessory wires with a meter when you remote start the truck to be sure everything is getting voltage at start-up.
the theft light comes on when you step on the brake pedal, once the key is in the ignition (to disengage the remote start unit). I will have to check if the GWR is not staying grounded, but I am almost positive it is not. I am convinced that the relay that tech support had me hook up, was the reason why the battery was being drained as it seemed to be latched on even after ignition was shut off. I will measure the ign and other wires once I get a chance to get back in the truck later this week. If anyone else has any ideas it would be greatly appreciated, and I hope everyone has a merry christmas
Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: December 24, 2007 at 12:49 PM
1. Which company's tech support told you to do that? The whole idea of paying good money for a bypass module is to not have to waste your time wiring up relays.
2. Doesn't your truck have the instant-fire Duramax motor? Does the "wait-to-start" light even come on for any significant length of time?
Most remote starters have a couple seconds' delay before cranking, even in gasoline mode. I know I've done '05s without wait to start, I'm just not sure about an '03.
3. I would remote start the truck with the dashboard apart, hopefully the problem will reappear so you can check it out.
Test the truck's wires (again, the truck's wires, not the remote starter's wires), and make sure the pink, white, and orange are all getting power during remote start. You could have a faulty connection, or even a bad output from the remote starter.
NOTE: If the white, Ignition 2 wire doesn't get power during remote start, the transmission can possibly damaged. I would get to work on troubleshooting this issue very soon.
4. Could be bad connections between the Autostart and 1700G, could be that either of the two units are faulty, or could be poor power or ground connections.
See if you can isolate just what area causes the problem, by wiggling and tapping various connections one at a time, maybe with the handle of a screwdriver.
Also, unplug the doorlock plug from the Autostart.........if it still does it, then probably the Autostart is good.
Posted By: foxgt
Date Posted: January 02, 2008 at 2:06 PM
everything else has been solved except for the guage problem. All acc. and ign. wires (minus the brown wire) are getting power during remote start. The first time it is remote started after the unit is plugged in, the guages will work fine, but after that they refuse to work. *the only guages affected are the fuel and oil pressure guage.* anyone have any idea what could be causing the problem
Posted By: hottwhyrd
Date Posted: January 02, 2008 at 3:09 PM
y the f dont people power up the brown wire?
Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: January 02, 2008 at 5:37 PM
hottwhyrd wrote:
y the f dont people power up the brown wire?
Cause the BROWN wire only powers radio and wiper. No required for remote start. Have done hundred without powering up the BROWN wire without problems. ------------- Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
Posted By: helmsb
Date Posted: January 02, 2008 at 8:31 PM
How many 12 volt constant wires do you have? Just did an install that the rs had 2 and plus 1 that said to use if needed. When I hooked it up everything was fine. The problem was the volts were droping when the rs was used so all the acc did not get powered up right.
Posted By: foxgt
Date Posted: January 02, 2008 at 8:47 PM
helmsb wrote:
How many 12 volt constant wires do you have? Just did an install that the rs had 2 and plus 1 that said to use if needed. When I hooked it up everything was fine. The problem was the volts were droping when the rs was used so all the acc did not get powered up right.
there are 2 +12V constants on the Remote Start
I will have to measure the exact value of voltage going to the ACC circuit in the car after remote start, but it did not seem abnormal to me (greater than 12.6V)
Posted By: helmsb
Date Posted: January 02, 2008 at 8:57 PM
the voltage on mine was droping during the rs then would jump up after start.
Posted By: foxgt
Date Posted: January 02, 2008 at 9:48 PM
helmsb wrote:
the voltage on mine was droping during the rs then would jump up after start.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't an accessory circuit supposed to not have power during crank, and only come on after the vehicle has been started? Therefore during RS there would be a drop in voltage (technically to 0, if even for a split second)
The only possibility that this could be effecting that I could see, is not enough power to the ACC circuit during RS. I will do a voltage comparison both with regular and remote start tomorrow to try to deem if this is the problem.
Autostart Tech support recommended wiring up a relay to power 2nd ACC (brown wire), but I doubt this will solve the problem, as he didn't even seem to know what he was talking about, or understand my problem.
Posted By: cluce1
Date Posted: March 17, 2008 at 8:05 PM
foxgt--Doing a search I found this thread and have some of the same issues with a 2003 Silverado. Were you able to resolve the issues? I installed yesterday and the antitheft light stays on sometimes and the same guages on my truck don't work until I leave the rs mode.
Posted By: cluce1
Date Posted: March 18, 2008 at 10:51 AM
antitheft light goes out if you turn the key to start
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