Just put a DEI Valet 561R remote starter In a 1996 Nissan Sentra. It runs like crap with idle flucuations, almost like a vacuum leak, for the first 5-10 seconds, then smoothes out an runs like normal. Most times, it needs to crank twice before it finally starts. I tried it warm once and it seemed to start right up perfectly. So I am guessing there is something wrong with my cold start circuit. I added the relay like was recommended in another topic rather than just connecting the cold start wire to the maing start wire. Anything I could have done wrong?
Also, the tach wire listed on the wiring diagram from the wiring section did not match any wire in the vehicle. This Sentra does not have a tach guage in the cluster, so maybe that's why. So I connected the tach wire to a blu/blk wire at the PCM that goes to an injector. It learned the tach signal right away, but could this still cause my issue?
Look for a green, or GREEN/ orange, or GREEN/ YELLOW wire at the side of the dist. cap. (coil) This is a 4cyl. reading.
-------------
I cant remember the exact wire color, but grab a multimeter and test one of the 2 wires at an injector. It should read like 2.8v AC and increase with RPMs. Last time I grabbed one of these at a coil it did the same thing you are talking about.
Figured it out! Turns out that the cold start wire on the wiring diagram is labled with the wrong color. It says the cold start wire is supposed to be WHITE/ blue, the the correct wire color is blue/black. After testing the relay with my meter and finding that it was working properly, I decided to check to see if the WHITE/ blue wire was getting a signal with both key start and remote start. When I probed it, I read juice in the second key position and none it start. So I knew that had to be just another ignition/accessory wire. So I probed the blue/black wire and found it only had power in start. It works perfectly now everytime. 3rd one under my belt!
By the way, before I found out the problem, I ran the tach wire to the green wire on the coil. Still did the same thing. The only advantage I found with this wire is that it had 3+AC volts versus the 1+ AC volts I got from the injector wire at the PCM. Performance wise, it makes no difference. I really wanted to minimize the amount of wires I had running into the engine bay ( I am a mechanic and I hate working on engines with extra aftermarket wiring), which is why I went to the PCM instead of the tach in the first place. So once I got it working properly, I removed the wire from the coil and connected back to the PCM for a cleaner look under the hood. The only wire I have under there now is the hood pin. There's no getting around that.
There was a lesson learned: even though you've got a wiring diagram in front of you, test every wire first. Thanks for the help guys!