Printer Friendly Forum Posts - 2006 civic, remote start, alarm

I have my 2006 civic wired up with a compustar CM 1000 and a 556U bypass - problem is, the bypass appears not to be functioning, I can tell this because the green key flashes, i'm fairly confident i have it wired correctly, I did not use the ring, I snipped it off and wired it directly to the two wires (red and white, black plug) <- is this right? it appears right based on the installation manual - so to diagnose the R/S I must hold a key next to the ignition. Any help on that 556U issue? Also, I have programmed my remote, learned my tach sucessfully (using the fuel injector wire) but the car just does not fire up, it goes through all the motions (as if you were to put the key to the "ON" position and not start) but it wont start up

I am pretty sure that you need to keep the ring intact for the Honda. I think the wires you tapped into are data wires, not antenna wires. Reconnect your ring and use it, should take care of the problem. If you are looking for a better solution I recommend the PKH34 from bypasskit.com (or any competitor's data based solution). Using a data based bypass eliminates the need to lose a key and is much more reliable than the ring method in cold weather.

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Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.

Fork out the $50 for a keyless bypass instead. It's only a 2 wire hookup for the bypass modules and it retains the immobilizer function.

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

40$ for Fortin HONDA-SL3. HONDA-Sl2 is no longer manufactured, but u can pick it uo for 20 or so in some shops.

I ordered up a PKH34, should be good from there, I got the start to kick in if I hold the key next to the column, once I get the keyless, I should be good - thanks guys!

Hey everyone, I just got my R/S workin on my 2006 Civic (CompuStar CM1000-S) with a PKH34 bypass. Problem is, sometimes when I start the car, the alarm goes off, I have to rush to the door to unlock it to stop the alarm. The problem on top of it all, I CAN'T FIGURE OUT WHAT IS CAUSING IT. It doesn't do it all the time and I can't figure out what combinations of events are causing it... ANYBODY had this problem and know a solution?

FACTORY ARM	Pink or Orange	In white plug behind fusebox under dash	-
FACTORY DISARM	Brown	In white plug behind fusebox under dash	-

You unit should have a disarm....ORANGE / white? I think Did you make this connection? Connect it to the brown, were you found the lock wires (PITA)

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I didn't make that connection because the unit is R/S ONLY therefore I didn't think it'd be necessary, I'll look around under the dash to see what I can find. The install manual said NOTHING about arm/disarm being necessary, but then again it also didn't say a WORD about the starter relay...

It's the Honda ignition sense -- it's the OEM/factory alarm triggering -- it thinks someone has broken into the Civic and is starting it.

You need to use the (-)250mA disarm output from the Compustar brain to connet to the Factory Disarm wire (as mentioned above).

The install manual is meant for pro's/authorized installers (not to say you're not a pro) and therefore it's very minimal in the information it offers to guide a newbie/novice/first-timer .. again, not to say you're not capable, but just lettin' ya know why it didn't give you a play by play of the install.

best of luck and congrats on the successful install.

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The search function is your friend.

I can't thank you all enough - yes, I am no pro- but I can manage my way through it haha - I am going to attempt one on my 08 Legacy (my wife was the lucky trial car) and I'm sure I'll have questions ... One other thing, it appears the unit is NOT happy with the TACH, it will be fine (when the car is warm and I learn it, etc.) but not when its been sitting out all night - should I just re-learn it on a COLD start? I've noticed that the RPMs are 200 (at most) higher on a cold start than a semi warm start... THANKS!

KarTuneMan wrote:

FACTORY ARM Pink or Orange In white plug behind fusebox under dash -
FACTORY DISARM Brown In white plug behind fusebox under dash -
You unit should have a disarm....ORANGE / white? I think Did you make this connection? Connect it to the brown, were you found the lock wires (PITA)

Guys, I just tried very hard to find these wires KarTuneMan indicates - anybody have any suggestions? The only white plug behind the fusebox I can find is big, its got 2 plugs in it, I can't find a brown wire in either of them and I tested a few but can't find anything that sends a pulse. This one wire is killing me, HELP PLEASE!

Also - I never located the lock wires because it wasn't necessary, the R/S I installed is R/S Only

FACTORY ARM	Pink or Orange	In white plug behind fusebox under dash	-
FACTORY DISARM	Brown	In white plug behind fusebox under dash	-

You unit should have a disarm....ORANGE / white? I think Did you make this connection? Connect it to the brown, were you found the lock wires (PITA)

Guys, I just tried very hard to find these wires - anybody have any suggestions? The only white plug behind the fusebox I can find is big, its got 2 plugs in it, I can't find a brown wire in either of them and I tested a few but can't find anything that sends a pulse. This one wire is killing me, HELP PLEASE!

They are in the door jamb boot with the lock wires. PITA. Drop the fuse box down a few 10mm bolts. Still.... PITA.

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I have a picture...send me a PM and i'll email you the pic

Thank you very much - at least it starts if she unlocks the doors and manually disarms the alarm - I'm going to give this a shot today hopefully.. Thank you again!

derekrobi wrote:

I can't thank you all enough - yes, I am no pro- but I can manage my way through it haha - I am going to attempt one on my 08 Legacy (my wife was the lucky trial car) and I'm sure I'll have questions ... One other thing, it appears the unit is NOT happy with the TACH, it will be fine (when the car is warm and I learn it, etc.) but not when its been sitting out all night - should I just re-learn it on a COLD start? I've noticed that the RPMs are 200 (at most) higher on a cold start than a semi warm start... THANKS!

About the tach, Honda's rpm are high at start up so your module should learn in a low rpm's. Meaning you'll have to wait till the rpm is settled before you proceed.

This is what I did to my Civic and never fails.

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Just About Anything Sparks

The wires you are looking for are on the inside of the car. The boot that goes THRU the kick into the door. THERE is where you will find said white plug.

lock, unlock, arm, and disarm are all in the same plug.

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ruki101 wrote:

derekrobi wrote:

I can't thank you all enough - yes, I am no pro- but I can manage my way through it haha - I am going to attempt one on my 08 Legacy (my wife was the lucky trial car) and I'm sure I'll have questions ... One other thing, it appears the unit is NOT happy with the TACH, it will be fine (when the car is warm and I learn it, etc.) but not when its been sitting out all night - should I just re-learn it on a COLD start? I've noticed that the RPMs are 200 (at most) higher on a cold start than a semi warm start... THANKS!

About the tach, Honda's rpm are high at start up so your module should learn in a low rpm's. Meaning you'll have to wait till the rpm is settled before you proceed.
This is what I did to my Civic and never fails.

Thank you - I found the disarm wire thanks to ENICE for sending me a picture - but I did some reading last night and did read that the lowest sustainable idle should be learned. So after the car was on for about 25 minutes driving, it was very warm, I learned the tach and tried to remotely start it about an hour later- worked like a charm. Tried again this morning after a night of cooling down and same thing, start/die start/die start/die - any suggestions? I used the injector wire for my tach, I'm considering flipping the jumper and using the alternator

It could also be a problem with the bypass module. Observe the immobilizer symbol on the instrument cluster when you are remote starting. Does it behave the same way as when you are starting with the key?

Also....when it starts and dies, is is actually starting and then turning off a second or two later, or does it not crank enough and never actually starts? In other words, is it overcranking, undercranking, or cranking the right amount? As others have said, I also suggest learning tach at a low RPM. Sometimes you may even need to start the car and put it in gear (while holding in the brake) and then learn tach.

Hey JWorm - yes the car starts (so it is cranking correctly) then runs for about 2 seconds and dies - I can try to learn it in gear to get the absolute lowest RPMs possible - is there anything else you can think of? And yes, the instrument panel behaves just like if I were to jump in with the key and start the car

Okay, now it just won't relearn the tach (blinks 3 times to indicate not a good tach) so I'm assuming the injector wire just isn't sending a very strong signal - has anybody used alternator sensing on this car or any car? Does it send a better signal, from what I remember it needs 1-5 volts to be considered a good enough signal for the CompuStar - any ideas anybody?

derekrobi wrote:

Okay, now it just won't relearn the tach (blinks 3 times to indicate not a good tach) so I'm assuming the injector wire just isn't sending a very strong signal - has anybody used alternator sensing on this car or any car? Does it send a better signal, from what I remember it needs 1-5 volts to be considered a good enough signal for the CompuStar - any ideas anybody?

Again, do not use alternator wire for your tach sense. Under steering column you'll find a bundle (not too many) of wires that goes to your cluster, you can test it using DMM (set your meter to AC). The one that response while you are pressing & depressing the gas pedal will be your tach wire. This way you wont need to ran a wire out to engine bay.

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Just About Anything Sparks

I have done 3 new Civic's with the tach at the harness that feeds the coils....with NO problem! you have 4 to choose from! yell/green, WHITE/ blue, blue/red, or brown.

I chosse brown. (just cause it's a solid color posted_image )

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I have also chosen brown but just still having the issue - I can't think of any reason why its not working, can you?

derekrobi wrote:

I have also chosen brown but just still having the issue - I can't think of any reason why its not working, can you?

Let's go back to square 1, how's the 556U bypass connected? You should use the ring, direct wire doesn't work all the time or to some vehicle.

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Just About Anything Sparks

I used a PKH34 - I sent you a PM, the car seems to be working now but I'm not 100% confident until it gets cold out to test it in the cold...

derekrobi wrote:

I used a PKH34 - I sent you a PM, the car seems to be working now but I'm not 100% confident until it gets cold out to test it in the cold...

Hoping that your RS is working properly by now...

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Just About Anything Sparks

It's not the bypass module. I had the same problems on the 06/07 Civic's when using the injector or the coil. You have to use alternator sense from the remote starter and grab the stator wire at the alternator plug. This worked for 5+ Civic's that I've done and none have come back when the temp goes below -30 C

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

Velocity - thank you - I agree its not the bypass because when the car has been driven, it will R/S with NO issues, only if its been sitting for a few hours will it start to cause problems (like this morning) - can you tell me the wire color/location (I'm well aware where the alternator is) but there are several plugs that goes into it, the easiest to reach is the black plug with 3 red wires right at the top - thanks for your input, it appears using alternator as a tach sense is a touchy issue, some people like it some people disagree, if you've had success with it, I may just give it a shot because I'm running out of ideas of how to trouble shoot it...

If that's the case I agree with Velocity due to his experience and knowledge with this particular installation. I just suggested to go back to square one to trace the issue from the very beginning. Yes, it's not the bypass otherwise it won't start when it's warm. I'm assuming it's just a lil thing that you are missing. Hope you find it soon and don't give up because it's just the beginning. ;-)

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Just About Anything Sparks

KarTuneMan wrote:

I have done 3 new Civic's with the tach at the harness that feeds the coils....with NO problem! you have 4 to choose from! yell/green, WHITE/ blue, blue/red, or brown.
I chosse brown. (just cause it's a solid color)

This really is poor information, cause when it's REAL cold here.....it's 20 degrees, and for only a few days at the most. NOT 30 below. posted_image

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ahah, well at least you try right ! as velocity mentioned, this is a way that has been proven to work. DId one recently and the car would not start. It gets cold here in Ontario, Canada. Well veleocity is from canada as well and sure its cold. On civics or newer acords, voltage sense will work without a problem. NO overcrank and no undercrank on the civic i did.

I'll have to get the information to you tomorrow when I'm back at the shop. The alternator wire is in the loom with 6 or 7 other wires not in the plug with 3 wires.

When you get the no start scenario, you can sit in the car and watch the GREEN immobilizer light. It actually turns off and still fails to start, that is how I figured out that it was the tach signal and not the immobilizer. The odd thing is that the failed start mimics an immobilizer fail start.

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

Hey Velocity - I knew about the green light issue, when I tried to use a 556U it was ON when I was trying to remotely start the car, now that I use the PKH34 that fixed that problem - I am glad you are going to send me the alternator wire information - I may get under the dash and test aroudn for the tach wire goign to the cluster too

Alternator stator wire is WHITE/ BLUE. This wire will test 9-10 volt when ignition is ON and 12-14 when started. This is the wire that we've been using.

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

Velocity Motors wrote:

Alternator stator wire is WHITE/ BLUE. This wire will test 9-10 volt when ignition is ON and 12-14 when started. This is the wire that we've been using.

AWESOME, thank you very much, I'll try this out and flip the jumper on the unit and I'll let you know how it goes!

Velocity Motors wrote:

Alternator stator wire is WHITE/ BLUE. This wire will test 9-10 volt when ignition is ON and 12-14 when started. This is the wire that we've been using.

Velocity - you're the man - changed everything up last night and the car fired up perfectly this morning (although its a little warmer this week than usual) but it seems to work great - I'll let you know next week when its a little colder out, but I'm feeling confident that fixed it. THANKS AGAIN!!!

No worries, glad I could help. I knew this would work seeing that this is what happened with my first 06 Civic that I did last year.

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

I cut open the big loom running to the alternator and the first wire I found was WHITE/ blue and I knew I was in the right place - I'll send you a PM should it stop working when it gets colder, but I have the feeling this will be fine since when the car is running it tests a strong 12 volts rather than a very low voltage from the injector wire

how do you wire up the alternator stator? is this still like hood up the tach wire is that alternator wire, and learning the tach?

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Johnnynguyen

the alternator sense on most units requires a direct connection to a 12v source. Its not really programming. the unit "sees" an influx in voltage. batterys are usaully 12.70v to 13, and go to 14.4 when started. so the unit first reads eg 12, then once it has started, 14v is given so the unit knows the car has technically started and alternator is running.

tedmond wrote:

the alternator sense on most units requires a direct connection to a 12v source. Its not really programming. the unit "sees" an influx in voltage. batterys are usaully 12.70v to 13, and go to 14.4 when started. so the unit first reads eg 12, then once it has started, 14v is given so the unit knows the car has technically started and alternator is running.

The alternator stator wire is actually a little different. Reads 0v with key off, usually about 4-6 volts with the key on, and about 14v when the car is running. Alternator sense is actually different than the voltage sense that a lot of units use.

JWorm] wrote:

he alternator stator wire is actually a little different. Reads 0v with key off, usually about 4-6 volts with the key on, and about 14v when the car is running. Alternator sense is actually different than the voltage sense that a lot of units use.

JWorm is right on. So far i only see compustar has this feature. To use alternator sensing, you have to open up the cover of the brain and move the dip sw 2 from tach to alternator sense, then just use the same wire tach/alternator sense and hook it up to the wire which will be tested like JWorm had mentioned.

Johnnynguyen20 wrote:

how do you wire up the alternator stator? is this still like hood up the tach wire is that alternator wire, and learning the tach?

Like Velocity mentions, it is WHITE/ BLUE, if you cut open the large loom running from the top of the engine down to the alternator, it will be RIGHT there can't miss it, and yes JWorm is correct in the voltage readings, once you flip the dip swith you do not need to learn anything. This solution worked for me because I wasn't even getting 1 volt from the coil wire so the unit didn't know the car was running and hence, it would just die - this wire sends a very strong current signal and it has started my wife's Civic every single time since I made the switch to alt sense from tach.

Good follow up Derek!!!

Having a RS is great huh?!

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Just About Anything Sparks

Okay its been about a week and a half since I made the switch from tach to alt as this post has been talking about - and it works 100% of the time - I'm sure going forward it will continue to work even in the coldest weather

That's good to hear. I just spoke to the customer that I installed one into a 2006 Civic last year and we're having a cold snap right now ( -44 with the wind chill ) and he has no problems with the vehicle starting as long as it's plugged in.

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA