audiovox aps 620 in ’01 caravan
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=100481
Printed Date: May 29, 2024 at 10:21 AM
Topic: audiovox aps 620 in ’01 caravan
Posted By: qtrmimike
Subject: audiovox aps 620 in ’01 caravan
Date Posted: December 27, 2007 at 3:28 PM
I am starting to understand why they say remote starts are best left to the experts :oops:. I thought I was pretty good at electrical until this project humbled me. I have everything hooked up ( I think anyway ). The unit found the tach signal rather quickly and starts and runs without the remote start. The first problem I have is the Red w/ White trace wire on the main power harness blows a fuse when I try to start with the remote. According to the installation manual, this is a 12V + source that provides power for the control circuit as well as the ign 1 and ign 2 relays (which must be inside the control module). I have connected this wire to the battery. The second issue is I cannot get the remote to lock or unlock the doors. I am using relays with resistance based on the diagrams. I can hear the relays clicking, but no action with the locks. I am wired to connector 3 pin 21 on BCM (PURPLE / green). I appreciate everyone's help and patience with me. Mike
Replies:
Posted By: techman93
Date Posted: December 27, 2007 at 7:52 PM
Power Unlock VIOLET/DRK.GR (-) PIN 21 AT BCM,GRND THROUGH 2K OHM RES.
PowerLock VIOLET/DRK.GR (-) PIN 21 AT BCM,GRND THROUGH 5.3K OHM RES.
USE 4020 OHM RESISTOR WITH FACTORY ALARM/665 OHM WITHOUT
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The wire I'm test'n isn't doin' what it's supposed to be doin'... I am so glad I printed that tech sheet, with the wrong info.
Do it right the first time... or I might have to fix it for ya
Posted By: qtrmimike
Date Posted: December 27, 2007 at 9:03 PM
This is why I am so bothered by this...It is connected with the resistance that is listed, 2K and 5.3K. I can hear my relays clicking, but nothing from the door locks. I confirmed the right pin on the BCM. Thanks again for the input Mike
Posted By: techman93
Date Posted: December 27, 2007 at 11:15 PM
if it doesnt have factory alarm use 665 ohm resistor on lock.
make sure value is within 5% and not much more because resistance needs to be really close.
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The wire I'm test'n isn't doin' what it's supposed to be doin'... I am so glad I printed that tech sheet, with the wrong info.
Do it right the first time... or I might have to fix it for ya
Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: December 28, 2007 at 9:52 AM
got your relays wire up right? you will wire up 2 for unlock and lock. 85 - constant 12
86 - lock or unlock
87 - ground with resistance in line.
30 - to lock or unlock wire on car.
Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: December 28, 2007 at 12:47 PM
Ok, as for your two questions:
1. The RED / white feeds the brain itself, and also the Ignition 1 (blue) and Ignition 2 (green) outputs. Right now, where are the blue and green connected?
2. Leaving the relays aside, just take the wire from the car, and using a jumper wire, what happens if you apply chassis ground, through the resistor, to the wire on the car?
Have you first tested that this wire changes state when you operate the locks? Pin number at the BCM isn't reliable enough; every wire on an installation should be tested.
Posted By: qtrmimike
Date Posted: December 28, 2007 at 1:31 PM
Here is the good news.....the door locks are now working !! The remote start is still blowing the 30A fuse on the red white. Chris, the blue and green are both directly connected to the Pink/White wire at the ignition harness at the steering column. Is that correct?? This is really aggravating.....lol. I have an Excel spreadsheet showing where I have all the wires connected that I could email if it would help. Let me know. I disconnected the starter (yellow wire) from the yellow wire on the main power harness and still the fuse is blowing on the RED / white wire. I really appreciate any insight. I know that I am close to having this, but this is giving me fits. Thanks, Mike
Posted By: usabuilt
Date Posted: December 28, 2007 at 2:45 PM
I would check all the wires that it feeds. ign ect and make sure they are not connected to the wrong wire on the ign switch, check with a meter and be sure they are not groung wires or pinched somewhere.
Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: December 30, 2007 at 9:54 AM
Having the 620's blue and green both connected to the same place is redundant, and unnecessary, but also shouldn't hurt anything.
But anyway, what you read in the manual is correct......the RED / white feeds the control circuit, and the relays for the green and blue ignition wires.
Here's how I would troubleshoot:
1. Disconnect the blue and green wires from the car.
Also, inspect the entire length of these wires where you routed them, and make sure they're not chafed through and rubbing against body metal, or have a screw accidentally driven through them, things like that.
2. Activate the remote start. (Of course it can't start the car with the wires disconnected, but try it anyway. When you want it to shut off, just hit the brake.)
If the fuse still blows, the unit must be defective.
If fuse doesn't blow, the remote start must be good, and your blue or green wire was shorted to ground somehow.
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Here's how I do Caravans. The interface at the ignition switch is quite simple, and doesn't require relays or resistors or anything.
Red, and RED / white: I cut off one of the fuse holders, and jump one onto the other (on the "brain" side of the fuse), so the two wires are now sharing one fuse. I then remove the 30-amp fuse, install a 7.5, and catch my power right at the blue/red at the ignition switch.
Running your power wires out to the battery, and keeping the two original fuses, is more labor-intensive, but doesn't hurt anything.
From there:
Blue from 620: pink/white ignition on car
Green from 620: nothing
Purple from 620: nothing
Yellow from 620: yellow start wire on car
Also, BLACK / YELLOW "pulse during start" from 620: PURPLE / brown wire at keyswitch.
No relay, no resistor, no diode....just hook it up straight.....the BLACK / YELLOW is low-current, and just weak enough to simulate the 180 ohms that the car wants.
If you fail to connect anything to the PURPLE / brown on the car, the remote starter will only work about half the time. (But, it would simply fail....it would NOT blow fuses, so that's not what your problem is right now.)
P.S. Where is the WHITE/ red parking light input, with the 15-amp fuse, connected? Is it jumpered onto the RED / white to catch constant power? Are all of your parking light connections complete, and do the parking lights flash correctly with lock and unlock?
Regardless, Temporarily remove the 15-amp fuse, to rule that out as a possiblility of the cause of your problem.
Posted By: qtrmimike
Date Posted: December 30, 2007 at 12:29 PM
Chris: Great news !! The remote start is working. With the green wire disconnected, the fuse does not blow and the remote start works. THANKS for all the help!! The last question I have is : How do you normally have the parking lights relayed? The lights do not flash with the lock/unlock function. I have them wired per the Direct tech tip : 86 : 12 V constant 85 : WHITE/ red from parking light 3 pin harness 87 : 2.1K resistor to ground 87A : white brown at headlight switch 30 : white brown at BCM (pin 18 on C5 connector) Thanks again for ALL the help this site offers, you guys are a blessing !!!
Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: December 30, 2007 at 6:06 PM
Hmm.
The way you have it right now poses two issues:
1. At rest, the headlight switch (87a) and the bcm (30) are shorted together, which is contary to how the car is designed.
If these two WHITE/ browns in the car are the same exact wire, the relay has no effect one way or the other......but if they're different wires that do different things, um, that could be bad.
2. So you've got 85 connected to the WHITE/ red from the remote start......where's the remote starter's white connected?
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The WHITE/ red and the white wires coming from the remote start, are simply terminals 87 and 30 of the built-in parking light relay (the 87a terminal is not available externally)........so basically, you've got a relay already built in there, no need to buy another.
Imagine a pipe with a shutoff valve in the middle. The white and the WHITE/ red are the two ends of the pipe.......when the Audiovox unit wants the parking lights on, it opens the valve and lets the electricity through.
Just like you could turn the pipe around backwards and it would still work, you can get the white and the WHITE/ red backwards if you want.............but again, just like a pipe, the "valve" has no effect if one end of the "pipe" isn't hooked up to something.
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Two ways to do parking lights on the Caravan:
1. The tech sheet lies. You can use positive parking lights, and nothing will explode.
Connect the Audiovox WHITE/ red to constant power.
Connect the Audiovox white, to the WHITE/ brown positive parking light wire in the driver's kick panel. There are several WHITE/ browns there, so you must test.
NOTE: When using positive parking lights, the background illumination for the dashboard lights doesn't come on with remote start....doesn't hurt anything, just didn't want you to be surprised.
2. Connect Audiovox WHITE/ red to chassis ground.
Connect Audiovox white to one side of a resistor. Connect the other side of the resistor to the WHITE/ brown at the parking light switch.
It sometimes happens that you'll end up getting headlights AND parking lights, instead of just headlights. If that's OK for you, leave it alone, or try a slightly different resistor.
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Also, I just figured out, you're probably using a diagram that wants you to relay-isolate the car's wire from the switch.............that's because the switch also gives out a small resistance even at rest.........that's why I just experiment with the resistor value, but you can do it the way they want too.
The diagram I think you have would go like this.....you've got it close, but not quite right.
(NOTE: The WHITE/ red and white wires from the Audiovox........it doesn't matter which one goes where. If you have the WHITE/ red and the white backwards, it's ok.)
Audiovox: WHITE/ red to ground.......so now the white wire puts out a ground when the unit wants the parking lights to flash. If you don't connect the WHITE/ red to something, the white does nothing.
85: white parking light output from Audiovox
86: constant
87: resistor, with other end of resistor connected to ground
----Take the WHITE/ brown coming from the headlight switch, and cut in half.
87a: "switch side" of the wire that you cut....the side that's coming from the car's parking light switch.
30: "car side" or "bcm side" or whatever you prefer to call it........the BROWN / white wire that leads into the car's body.
Posted By: qtrmimike
Date Posted: December 30, 2007 at 7:00 PM
Hey Chris, Thanks for the input. Understanding the logic of the system is what I needed to understand the wiring. You are correct in what you said at the end of the post, I am using the diagram that wants you to relay-isolate the car's wire from the switch. Based on what you said, the internals on the Audiovox is nothing more than a relay for this circuit with the white and WHITE/ red. I finally get it  Revelation is such a great thing. I really like the ease of option 2 or even using the isolation relay by cutting the wire at the switch. I will try that in the morning when I have good light again. My last question ( I hope ) concerning this : I am concluding that the black will still continue to be connected to ground....i don't see that changing. Thanks again for all your help!!! This has made for a very happy wife!!! WOOHOO.
Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: December 31, 2007 at 10:45 AM
You're welcome! I like trying to explain things, and I hope I didn't talk too much. I sure wish the installation manuals would give more information.
And yes, the black wire is always for ground. It just so happens that they put the ground wire in the same plug with the parking lights, but it is independent.
Posted By: qtrmimike
Date Posted: December 31, 2007 at 3:08 PM
You have done an excellent job explaining things. Understanding the logic and function of the unit make it so much easier to know where the wires go and why. Now that I understand the logic, I was able to get the parking lights to work with confidence and without issue. Everything is working great !!! Words cannot express my gratitude for your expertise!!! Thank you so much!! Happy New Year
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