pkuf2 for 2002 ford taurus
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=100531
Printed Date: June 08, 2024 at 5:17 AM
Topic: pkuf2 for 2002 ford taurus
Posted By: markcgross
Subject: pkuf2 for 2002 ford taurus
Date Posted: December 29, 2007 at 12:41 AM
I purchased a Ready Remote brand remote starter (model 24927) for my daughter's 2002 Ford Taurus thinking that I could install it myself (it is billed as "do-it-yourself" and I'm reasonably handy and very cheap). I also purchased the PKUF2. The installation instructions for the PKUF2 are confusing at best to a newbie like me. It has a 4-wire harness, and I think I understand where to connect the brown wire (to the remote starter), but I don't know where to connect the White ("Negative Keysense Input") or the Green ("Positive Keysense Input") wires. Also, I am assuming that the Red (("12 volts constant") connects to the ignition wire, but I am not certain. Finally, the instructions say to wrap the coil around the ignition key, but I think it means to wrap to coil around the ignition barrel someplace. Can you clarify that? I realize these question are way beneath the expertise of this forum, but I would greatly appreciate any help.
------------- Mark Gross
Replies:
Posted By: mikvot
Date Posted: December 29, 2007 at 2:05 PM
You really don't need to use either of the keysense wires. The system will work fine as long as you don't have a habit of leaving a key in the ignition. The red wire will be hooked up to 12volt constant at the ignition harness. For the ring, once you have the steering column cover pulled off.....you will see a black plastic ring right by where the key goes in. This is the receiver for the PATS system...the ring will need to go there. You might have to play with it a little to get a good signal. Good thing you got a fairly easy car for your first one. If you have any more questions, let me know....I can do the Taurus in my sleep. Here is the wiring info on your car, if you don't already have it. Wire/Function | Colour | Location/Description | Polarity | PASSIVE ANTI-THEFT | YES | TRANSPONDER | SEE NOTES | 12 VOLTS | GREEN/ black and Yellow | Ignition Switch harness | + | IGNITION | RED / lt.green | Ignition Switch harness | + | ACCESSORY | Gray / YELLOW | Ignition Switch harness | + | ACCESSORY 2 | BLACK/ green and RED / black | Ignition Switch harness | + | STARTER | RED / blue | Ignition Switch harness | + | KEY SENSE | BLACK/ pink | Ignition switch harness | - | TACH SIGNAL | See notes | | | | | On the 3L Vulcan engine there is a coil-pack at the rear of the engine. Use the YELLOW/WHITE and set your remote starter for 2 cylinders. On the 3L Duratec engine, there is a coil per cylinder. Go to any of the 3 front coils and use either the ORANGE / YELLOW, GREEN/ YELLOW or GREEN/ PURPLE and set your remote starter for a 1 cylinder signal. |
| LOCK | Pink / YELLOW | In driver's kickpanel | - | UNLOCK | Pink/green | In driver's kickpanel | - | DRIVER LOCK MOTOR | Pink/black | In driver's kickpanel | + | DRIVER UNLOCK MOTOR | RED / white | In driver's kickpanel | + | PASSENGER UNLOCK MOTOR | Pink/orange | In driver's kickpanel | + | DOORPIN | BLACK/ blue | In driver's door jamb boot | + | TRUNK PIN | WHITE/ purple | under driver's side running board | | TRUNK RELEASE | Gray/red | At release switch in dash | + | FACTORY DISARM | Pink/white | In driver's kickpanel | - | BRAKESWITCH | RED / lt.green | At switch above brake pedal | + | PARKLIGHTS | Brown | At light switch or in DKP | + | HORN | Dk.blue | On right of steering column | - | DRIVER WINDOW UP | WHITE/ black | At switch in driver's door | REV POL | DRIVER WINDOW DOWN | ORANGE / white | At switch in driver's door | REV POL | PASSENGER WINDOW UP | WHITE/ yellow | At switch in driver's door | REV POL | PASSENGER WINDOW DOWN | Tan/blue | At switch in driver's door | REV POL | LEFT REAR WINDOW UP | Yellow/blue | At switch in driver's door | REV POL | LEFT REAR WINDOW DOWN | Gray/orange | At switch in driver's door | REV POL | RIGHT REAR WINDOW UP | Yellow/black | At switch in driver's door | REV POL | RIGHT REAR WINDOW DOWN | RED / black | At switch in driver's door | REV POL | HEADLIGHTS | RED / yellow | At switch in dash | + | VSS WIRE | Gray/black | At GEM module (left side of steering column) | AC |
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Posted By: markcgross
Date Posted: December 29, 2007 at 3:10 PM
Thanks, Mikvot. You may regret the offer. I am a few days away from starting this project (I am waiting to receive the remote start), but I will likely have more questions. Here is one: the programming instructions for the PKU bypass module say to remote start the car to complete the programming. I thought I needed the PKU installed before I could remote start? An alternative set of instructions says to use a jump wire to power up the ignition. How do I do that?
------------- Mark Gross
Posted By: mikvot
Date Posted: December 29, 2007 at 4:29 PM
I would use the first set of instructions you have. I don't use that brand of bypass, but looks like a standard transponder bypass. When you get to the step where you have to remote start the vehicle, get the box as close as possible to that black ring i was telling you about. When you remote start the vehicle, it is basically using the remote start to turn on the ignition.......instead of having to jump the ignition wire. This will program the module to the car. If it starts, then you know you got it programmed. If the security light on the dash blinks fast, then you know the module didn't program. Just a little side note......before i even put the bypass module in the vehicle, i test the remote start out first. once you've got all the wiring completed, and are ready to test.....just put one of the keys in the ignition cylinder....don't turn it at all. This will simulate what the bypass is gonna do. If it starts correctly then go ahead and install the bypass. i do this, that way if i have a failure, i know for sure it's not the bypass. Insert 1st valid Ign. key & turn to “ON” position until security light turns off. Remove 1st valid key. Insert 2nd valid Ign. key & turn to “ON” position until security light turns off. Remove 2nd valid key. Position & hold PKU module (screw side) towards the front of the ignition barrel (key cylinder), then start vehicle by remote start. (IF vehicle does not start and/or run, please repeat Steps 1, 2 & 3). The PKU module is now programmed
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Posted By: markcgross
Date Posted: January 05, 2008 at 7:41 PM
Ok, I started this project and now have my first problem. I can't seem to locate the factory disarm wire. The wiring diagram from DEI says it is a pink/white wire coming from a 26 pin harness at the GEM module. I have found such a wire (and I think I am at the GEM module which is behind the fuse panel and mounted to the firewall to the left of the brake pedal). However, when I test the wire as instructed in the manual (connecting the red lead to 12V constant and the black lead to the pink/white wire, then turning the key in the driver's side door to unlock the door) the test fails -- my multi-meter is supposed to read 12V when the key is rotated to unlock and return to 0V when the key is released. It just stays at 0V (actually it stays around .5V). I am concerned that I don't have the right wire. Any ideas?
------------- Mark Gross
Posted By: mikvot
Date Posted: January 06, 2008 at 11:09 AM
You can find the pink/white (-) wire coming in from the drivers door harness.....in the drivers kick panel. The harness splits into 2 seperate harnesses ...one side goes to drivers door sill towards the back of the car...the other side goes to the firewall. Most of the time i will find it on the firewall side. The wire should show 12v or open at rest. When you turn the key to the unlock position it should show ground.
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Posted By: markcgross
Date Posted: January 06, 2008 at 9:43 PM
Thanks again for the help. I am happy to say that I finished this project today, and everything seems to work properly. I couldn't get to the trunk release wire, so I skipped that part -- if you have any tips on how to get to that wire, I will go back into it one of these days. I skipped a few other features that I didn't really care that much about. I never did get a positive test of the factory disarm wire, but I went ahead and connected to that pink/white wire, and so far no problems. You were right about needing to fiddle around a bit with the transponder bypass ring. My first attempt failed, so I wrapped another loop around the barrel and put some tape on it to hold in in place and it worked fine. Your advice was really helpful, and I can't thank you enough. All in, I have about $65 into this and around 12 hours of cautious work. Overall, I got a kick out of doing this, especially when the thing worked!
------------- Mark Gross
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