remote starts on dodge vehicles

OK...got a question for everyone.  Installing RS units on newer Dodge vehicles...they have multiple ignition and accessory wires...what is the best way to do these?? 

Most RS units give you 2 Ign wires and 1 ACC wire....and if there is multiple either/or acc, is the best way to use relays??  If using a relay for the multiple ACC, is it ok to use a diode to prevent feedback to the relay?? 

Thanks in advance for the info!!

Thanks for the replies.  I am going to be doing this tomorrow on my truck and yes, I will definitely be using relays!!  Jumper wires, I don't play that game at all!!   Like said above...they are isolated for a reason and I'll keep em that way!!  I'll just use the add'l outputs to drive a relay from the unit...I just didn't know if there were any other secrets to know.  Mine is a 05 Ram truck, 3500 diesel with manual tranny.  I am installing a RS727.  Not really for the remote start portion till I feel like screwing with the clutch pedal....but I will use the "pit-stop" feature and I really want the alarm functions to help cover the truck itself. 

But, as said, Thanks for the replies!!  I appreciate the info!!

O..and one last question, I'll be using resistors for the door locks...is this the best way ya'll have seen or is there a better way using relays?? 

Thanks again!!

ooops.....1 more question!!

I have what looks like 3 acc wires....well, I can use the 1 accessory off the harness...then use the add'l (-) output off the unit to drive another relay...but can I use it ti supply 2 relays or will it be too much??

Thanks

• door locks : use the (-) trigger from the remote starter and you do not need to use resistors if the output of the RS is greater than 300 mA
• Use the cam sensor at the front of the truck for your tach signal. Don't even bother going to the PCM cause it will give you a headache and will make you mad cause there's not enough room there to really work.
• The clutch bypass for this truck is easy. Simple one wire hook up, but for the life of me I can't remember if it's a (-) or (+) trigger
• 2nd ACC will need to be powered up if you want the ABS light to turn off when remote started. Otherwise it doesn't harm anything if it's not powered up.

Velocity Motors wrote:

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Here's some pointers for you that will save you time:

• door locks : use the (-) trigger from the remote starter and you do not need to use resistors if the output of the RS is greater than 300 mA
• Use the cam sensor at the front of the truck for your tach signal. Don't even bother going to the PCM cause it will give you a headache and will make you mad cause there's not enough room there to really work.
• The clutch bypass for this truck is easy. Simple one wire hook up, but for the life of me I can't remember if it's a (-) or (+) trigger
• 2nd ACC will need to be powered up if you want the ABS light to turn off when remote started. Otherwise it doesn't harm anything if it's not powered up.

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Thank you greatly for the information, I really appreciate it.  Couple of questions for you if you don't mind....

~On the door locks, everything I read says resistors, resistors, resistors, I don't understand how I would get around this with the single wire system.
~As for the cam sensor for the tach, I was actually going to use the tachless option....safe or OK for the diesels??
~Clutch Bypass:  which wire would this hook to on my RS system??  It is going to be a RS727.
~On the 2nd ACC wire...according to the wiring diagrams I have seen...I have 3 ACC wires??  1st is a Dk. Blue, 2nd is a 16ga. Pink / YELLOW and 3rd is a 14ga. Pink / YELLOW??  Is this what you have or have seen also??  I would like to clear the ABS light and anything else as it would be if the key was on...just seems afer to me overall. 

Again, thanks for your time.

Velocity Motors wrote:

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For the doorlocks, you will need resistors to control the door lock. The only way around this is to buy a doorlock and bypass module. I suggest using the iDatalink module if you do not want to use resistors to control your doorlocks.

I wouldn't use the tachless on a diesel seeing that the voltage drop so much when the truck cranks. YOu can try but chances are it will not work at all when truck is cold.

If the clutch wire is (-) use a 2nd STARTER output wire ( if you have ) otherwise use your ground when running wire. If you have a (+) clutch wire then use the starter wire from the main ignition harness on the remote starter. Wire in the starter disable at the clutch wire, not the starter wire at the ignition switch.

IGNITION Pink/white
IGNITION 2 Pink/green
ACCESSORY Blue (large gauge)
ACCESSORY 2 Pink / YELLOW (16 awg)

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Jeff, Thanks once again.  But what is the 3rd ACC wire I have listed for??  The 14GA pink / YELLOW??  Is this the ABS stuff or just like the radio and such??  Thank you again for your time.

OK...help again!!!  Sometimes I hate relays...and I know it's because I have something wrong!!  I think....

OK, got to wiring everything in.  I am using 3 relays on top of the system.  I am using IGN 1 to power one of my small ignition wires, 16ga pink.white and IGN 2 to power the pink/green AND supply the "kick" to the relay to power the large blue, listed as Ign 3. 

Same goes for the ACC wire from my RS unit...I use it to control the small pink / YELLOW ACC wire and it "kicks" 2 relays, one for other pink / YELLOW and one for the large pink / YELLOW. 

Everything works fine...up to, starting the truck normal with the key.  The relays all engage...which I knew they would because the "supply" for them comes from my factory ignition wires....but they are getting kina warm.  Not hot by any means, but after say, 15 minutes, they are warm to the touch.  Is this normal??  Would it be better to use the IGN 2 and ACC 2 outputs from the alarm itself to drive the relays, instead of using the factory circuits as I am?? 

I guess what I'm concerned with is the backfeed of positive into the relays...will this hurt anything??  Because, even under normal starting conditions, using the key, when powered up, the 12volts is there, on the backside of the relay...does this hurt anything?? 

Hopefully I didn't confuse anyone!!  Thanks for the help!!

I shoulda bought a Ford or Chevy...I would have had it done already.....and no questions!!!!!! 

the relays should not engage when you use the key. mind on sharing hhow you wired up the relays? i would have wired it up like so

85 - negative trigger from remote start for optional relays
86 - constant 12v
87 - high current 12v fused appropriatly
30 - to the optional or second/3rd acc or ignition

also to prevent backfeed, you can place a diode across 85 and 86. Cathode (white band) on 86.

you could use the 12v ignition out to power the relay as well. usullay optional outputs (-) are about 500mA which is sufficiant in driving 2-3 relays. But if you wish to use the 12v ignition out then wire it up like so.

85 - 12v out from remote start for acc or ignition (depends what your trying to achieve)
86 - ground
87 - high current 12v fused appropriatly
30 - to the optional or second/3rd acc or ignition
play it safe; place a diode across 85 and 86. Cathode (white band) on 85.

OK...got it all done and in!!!  Went perfectly!!  I figured out which wires controlled what circuits and it is great. 

One more question though....my clutch switch is a (-) signal and I was wanting to wire it into my Negative Out while running, since I can't find one that is just Negative Out while  starting. 

My question to it is...is it ok for the (-) signal to be on the clutch switch for that long, continuous??  My timer is set at 20 minutes...so is it OK for the (-) to be there for that long without hurting anything?? 

Thanks!!

Velocity Motors wrote:

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Here's some pointers for you that will save you time:

• Use the cam sensor at the front of the truck for your tach signal. Don't even bother going to the PCM cause it will give you a headache and will make you mad cause there's not enough room there to really work.

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Hey Velocity, Thanks for the cluth info.  And while I gotcha...where can I find the Cam sensor you mentioned above??  As in, where is it mounted at on the truck and what color wire am I looking for??  Thanks.

And as usual....ONE more thing!!!

I found this in the install guide for my 727 unit:

GRAY/BLACK WIRE: 200 mA (-) Second Starter Output

So, I can use this to supply the (-) signal for my clutch...BUT is the 200ma enough or do you recommend using a relay for this??  Probably be safer anyways to prevent damage to the unit.....

paul h wrote:

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Hey Velocity, Thanks for the cluth info.  And while I gotcha...where can I find the Cam sensor you mentioned above??  As in, where is it mounted at on the truck and what color wire am I looking for??  Thanks.

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The cam sensor is at the front of the engine & you will need to get onto a creppy crawler and look under the engine. You will see a 3 pin connector attached to the cam sensor wrapped in tape. Cut the tape away and I've found 3 different wire colors so far on 8 different Dodge trucks that I've worked on so far this year. What has been consistent is that the wire ( looking at the side of the plug that plugs into the cam sensor with the release tap on top ) is on the left side of the plug.

paul h wrote:

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And as usual....ONE more thing!!!

I found this in the install guide for my 727 unit:

GRAY/BLACK WIRE: 200 mA (-) Second Starter Output

So, I can use this to supply the (-) signal for my clutch...BUT is the 200ma enough or do you recommend using a relay for this??  Probably be safer anyways to prevent damage to the unit.....

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That should still work with a 200 mA output. Try it out and if it doesn't work place a relay on this wire to boost the (-) output of the unit.