2005 avalanche, hornet 564t and 1700g
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=100575
Printed Date: May 18, 2024 at 11:30 PM
Topic: 2005 avalanche, hornet 564t and 1700g
Posted By: mikede
Subject: 2005 avalanche, hornet 564t and 1700g
Date Posted: December 30, 2007 at 2:02 PM
Hi all I am a tad confused about connecting up my Hornet Alarm/RS with the 1700G. Connecting wires from the Hornet to the 1700G:
1) Key sense? do I need it? 2) 1700G 6.Blue/Black (-) Disarm/Unlock Drivers door input-- Does this come from the Hornet's (-) factory disarm wire? (lt.GREEN/ black)? 3) 1700G 10. Lt.Blue (-) Disarm/Unlock All Doors ---The Hornet doesn't have a negtive unlock, all unlocks are positive, do I need a relay? 4) 1700G 9. Gray/Black (+) Dome Light monitor--- says connect this to the positive domelight circuit in the car? With all that said will the 1700G flash my parking lights when the alarm triggers or do I need to make those connections? Thanks, Mike
Replies:
Posted By: Twelvoltz
Date Posted: December 30, 2007 at 2:33 PM
1. No
2. Your 564T offers alternating polarity lock/unlock outputs, in other words..you DO have negative lock outputs. Hook this to the blue door unlock output on the 564T door lock harness.
3. Hook this to the H2/6 light blue second unlock output
4. This gets connected to the truck's dome light wire. At the BCM there is a gray/black wire that is the dome light positive wire. It's in the black plug pin E.
5. No, you still have to hook up the parking lights. Switch the parking light jumper on the brain to negative and tap into the gray/black pin B2 in the black plug at the BCM.
As always, verify all connections with a DMM before making connections.
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Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.
Posted By: mikede
Date Posted: December 30, 2007 at 6:11 PM
Twelvoltz, thanks for the quick reply. So all I need to do is the domelight, parking lights, normal starter kill, acc etc.. connections and I should be good to go? The 1700 auto learns my passlock II after I program it?
Posted By: Twelvoltz
Date Posted: December 30, 2007 at 6:52 PM
No need for starter kill IMO. Your truck has anti-grind and over-grind protection and anti-theft (passlock II) from the factory. Otherwise that looks to be correct.
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Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.
Posted By: mikede
Date Posted: December 30, 2007 at 7:24 PM
So you mean don't use the tach for the remote start because of the anti-grind and skip the starter kill because of passlock II?
Posted By: Twelvoltz
Date Posted: December 30, 2007 at 7:38 PM
On most vehicles I would never recommend voltage sensing, but yes on yours I do. Your truck has all of the reasons to use tachometer sensing built in. Set your unit to voltage sensing, set your crank time to 1 second, set your voltage sensing to low and you should be good to go. Having a redundant starter kill is a nice option, but not entirely necessary and since your vehicle has built in anti-grind it would be just that...redundant.
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Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.
Posted By: mikede
Date Posted: December 30, 2007 at 8:33 PM
OK sorry, but I have another question concerning the 1700G 11. Blue (-) Remote Starter Status input. Do I get this from the H3 harness blue/white wire? Do I need the WHITE/ blue remote start activation input? Thanks again, Mike
Posted By: Twelvoltz
Date Posted: December 30, 2007 at 8:55 PM
The status input lets the 1700G know when the remote starter is activated, you would hook it to either the blue status output or the blue/white second status output. You do not need to hook the WHITE/ blue to anything unless you wanted the RS portion of the system to activate from an external source.
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Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.
Posted By: mikede
Date Posted: December 31, 2007 at 3:26 PM
Well I have it installed, but It won't remote start. I can manually start the truck with no issues, the alarm arms (locks) and dis-arms (unlocks) the doors, but when I try and remote start I get nothing not even ignition comes on, the lights just flash and thats it. Any ideas?
Posted By: Twelvoltz
Date Posted: December 31, 2007 at 3:39 PM
How many times do the lights flash? Did you hook up the hood pin?
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Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.
Posted By: mikede
Date Posted: December 31, 2007 at 3:59 PM
hood pin is hooked up, the neutral safety switch is run to ground (override), the lights flash once and my remote recieves a signal saying the truck started but then gets another signal saying it stopped. When I do a shutdown diagnostics the LED blinks 3 times saying no RPM or LOW rpm.
Posted By: mikede
Date Posted: December 31, 2007 at 6:10 PM
I couldn't hook up the 1700G domelight monitor input because my truck's wire is negative and the 1700G is looking for positive and I don't have a relay to convert it. Also is this why I can open the door and the alarm doesn't go off? because I need that input on the 1700G?
Posted By: mikede
Date Posted: December 31, 2007 at 6:23 PM
OK I think I found the problem. Since the default setting is "Engine Checking tach" and I didn't connect that wire and didn't allow the 546t to learn the tach its refusing to start. Problem is I can't program it due to the fact I don't have the door inputs setup because I need a relay to swap the negative dome output to a positive so the 1700G will alert the 564t that a door is open. Sound right?
Posted By: mikede
Date Posted: January 01, 2008 at 5:34 PM
Ok its all working now. It seems the 3rd red wire from the relay pack needs 12v also its not optional like the manual says. I also connect the dome switch and everything seems to be working great. Thanks for your help.
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