automate am6.2
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=100645
Printed Date: July 13, 2025 at 1:46 PM
Topic: automate am6.2
Posted By: lfeigley
Subject: automate am6.2
Date Posted: January 01, 2008 at 2:06 PM
I purchased an automate am6.2 starter kit and I have figured everything out except for where or how to connect the (-)activation and the (+) activation wires in the primary wiring harness of the control module. Being that I am not a Directed trained pro.they are not of much help. Does anyone know the procedure for making these connections and can explain them in laymans terms?
Replies:
Posted By: Twelvoltz
Date Posted: January 01, 2008 at 3:31 PM
Those connections are there if you wanted to activate the RS from an outside source. They are not needed in your application as the 6.2 comes with it's own remotes.
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Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.
Posted By: lfeigley
Date Posted: January 02, 2008 at 1:06 AM
Thank you! Spent 3 hours trying to research the subject. Come to find out there is an easier way. Once again Thanks!
Posted By: techman93
Date Posted: January 02, 2008 at 11:42 PM
I hate the fact that the 6.2 only can be programmed by valet switch and not the bitwriter like all their other products. There really are not all that many wires that unit needs to perform. My shop only connects the unlock and not lock because it isnt a keyless entry unit. We also take out the activation inputs out because it comes with it's own transmitters, no need for these except if you plan on not using the transmitters and adding it on to a factory keyless system. It needs power, ground, neutral safety, the ignition, accessory and starter output, brake, hood and tach. My boss has me do tachless which I hate because it is not as reliable as sensing a true tach. The status out is for bypass if needed. Thats about it for the 6.2 that really has to be wired to it. The factory alarm disarm and arm wires are wired as needed.
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The wire I'm test'n isn't doin' what it's supposed to be doin'... I am so glad I printed that tech sheet, with the wrong info.
Do it right the first time... or I might have to fix it for ya
Posted By: Twelvoltz
Date Posted: January 03, 2008 at 8:35 AM
techman93 wrote:
We also take out the activation inputs out because it comes with it's own transmitters
Just another opinion here, but I think it is nice having the option of both though. I actually offer the vehicle owner the choice of using both the factory remote and the aftermarket or just the factory. I will install the antenna and the positive activation input (on applicable vehicles of course) and set the unit to require 3 pulses. This way the owner can start from a greater distance when needed and it eliminates the need to carry 2 remotes at all times. The AM6.2 is the same exact brain as the 4100/561r etc. these units have proven to be bullet proof for me. ------------- Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.
Posted By: techman93
Date Posted: January 03, 2008 at 4:50 PM
I guess it depends on what you offer the customer. If you offer too much then they can get so they are not hooked up the same and my boss I guess wants to keep them to some degree of consistency. I however would offer however the customer wants, but it is not my business so I really don't have any say since I don't write my own paycheck.
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The wire I'm test'n isn't doin' what it's supposed to be doin'... I am so glad I printed that tech sheet, with the wrong info.
Do it right the first time... or I might have to fix it for ya
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