how to clear anti theft/security light

I just installed an RS on an '04 Silverado, my first GM. Anyway, like an idiot I f'ed with the keysense wires. I undid my mistake, and everything works perfect except that the anti-theft light is on only when started with the key. The light doesn't come on when started with the RS. I'm thinking the light will go out after a few cycles or a specified amount of time, but would like to know for sure before I tell my customer that. Or, is there actually a procedure to clear the light after it has been tampered with.

Thanks

Which bypass module did you use?

Try turning the key to the run position without starting the truck and leave it there for 10 minutes. This is how the system 'relearns' the proper R value.

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Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.

bump

I already tried the 'leave the door open for 20 minutes with the key in the on position.' It didn't work. I already returned it to the customer and said it should clear by itself, but if not(which is prob the case), then I'm gonna relay the starter wire to the ground activation of the 457 module to clear the light after every start.

The 457G tells the vehicle to ignore the PLII for that particular start cycle. You need to look at what ever you were trying to do and see if you didn't cause any wires/harnesses to come loose. What is it you were trying to do with the keysense?

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Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.

I used the 457gw module. How does the passkey system work on this year? What is the "R value", resistance or RF?

That truck is Passlock, not Passkey. The Passlock II is resistance based, not RF based. The resistor is in the key cylinder as opposed to the older VATS system that had the resistor in the key shaft.

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Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.

Twelvoltz wrote:

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The 457G tells the vehicle to ignore the PLII for that particular start cycle. You need to look at what ever you were trying to do and see if you didn't cause any wires/harnesses to come loose. What is it you were trying to do with the keysense?

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I couldn't get the module to work due to the simple mistake of mixing up the blue activation wire with the blue/white wire. Which led me to the splicing of the pink and pink/black wires, very regrettable. I figured out my mistake and soldered the keysense wire back together. I am expecting a comeback on this one, unfortunately-because it was actually a pretty easy install.

When the system is all fixed, and started with the key, the light should go out.

Since the light does not go out, the problem probably still hasn't been corrected.

What is the state of the thin yellow wire coming down the steering column? If it is broken, cut, etcetera, that'll do it.......check to make sure that if you cut it for whatever reason, that it's connected back together securely.

If you unsnap the plastic shroud around the steering column (it's a pain to snap back together, but you'll still want to take it off and check things)..........you should see a three-pin plug somewhere close to the keyhole, with probably a yellow, black, and a RED / white. Follow these three wires down the column and make sure they're all ok.

Twelvoltz wrote:

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That truck is Passlock, not Passkey. The Passlock II is resistance based, not RF based. The resistor is in the key cylinder as opposed to the older VATS system that had the resistor in the key shaft.

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I assume I may have screwed the resistance up with my repair. Is there another way around this other than relaying the start wire to the ground activation on the bypass module?

Chris Luongo wrote:

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When the system is all fixed, and started with the key, the light should go out.

Since the light does not go out, the problem probably still hasn't been corrected.

What is the state of the thin yellow wire coming down the steering column? If it is broken, cut, etcetera, that'll do it.......check to make sure that if you cut it for whatever reason, that it's connected back together securely.

If you unsnap the plastic shroud around the steering column (it's a pain to snap back together, but you'll still want to take it off and check things)..........you should see a three-pin plug somewhere close to the keyhole, with probably a yellow, black, and a RED / white. Follow these three wires down the column and make sure they're all ok.

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I never unsnapped the plastic ring. The truck starts with the key just fine, it's just the light stays on. Would it start if there was a loose connection?

Did you get this squared away? I am curious to see what you found when you looked into it.

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Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.

syrc] wrote:

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Chris Luongo wrote:

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When the system is all fixed, and started with the key, the light should go out.

Since the light does not go out, the problem probably still hasn't been corrected.

What is the state of the thin yellow wire coming down the steering column? If it is broken, cut, etcetera, that'll do it.......check to make sure that if you cut it for whatever reason, that it's connected back together securely.

If you unsnap the plastic shroud around the steering column (it's a pain to snap back together, but you'll still want to take it off and check things)..........you should see a three-pin plug somewhere close to the keyhole, with probably a yellow, black, and a RED / white. Follow these three wires down the column and make sure they're all ok.

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I never unsnapped the plastic ring. The truck starts with the key just fine, it's just the light stays on. Would it start if there was a loose connection?

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In short, yes, it would still start.

---Mess with the wires with the car OFF, and the system rightly assumes that someone is trying to steal the car, and disables the engine.

---Mess with the system with the car running, and the system assumes that it's not a theft attempt, but rather, a malfunction like a failed component or a loose wire.

It then goes into what's called "fail enable" mode........the car can still start, but the light stays on, and there is no theft protection. The PASSLock II system will remain disabled until the problem is corrected.

So anyway, follow the instructions above........inspect the entire system, temporarily re-wire the system back as factory (you don't have to solder or even tape, just use a jumper wire or whatever).......start the engine with the key, and the light should go out.