2002 f1 50 disarm wire?

Thanks for the replies.  I did a test to see if I have a factory alarm like Bnluis suggested and there is no horn blaring after locking the doors, waiting 1 minute, then opening the door through the window so I do NOT have a factory alarm, strictly keyless entry.  Thanks Bnluis.

Now that I'm past that, I proceeded to hook up all the wires today.  Unfortunatley, I do not have success yet.  The remote start is supposed to start after 3 consecutive (-) pulses.  I hit Lock 3 times on the key fob and nothing happens with the remote start.  If I sit in the truck and hit lock on the driver's door 3 times, it cranks, but doesn't start.  Any ideas on either of these symptoms? 

Did u use a bypass for the starter , Ibelieve you car is equipped withe a PATS key you will nee 2 keys to program a bypass. Where did you connect your wire of the starter for 3 consecutive pulses. I assume you connect it to the lock wire which gives you (-)  trigger. That wire only works with the lock switch inside the car , see if your remote starter gives you the option to connect it to a lock motor wire which gives you a (+) 12volt, if not you will need a relay. The lock motor wire on that car I think is Pink/Black

there are many types of bypasses  PKF1, 555F just a few

https://www.bypasskit.com/product.aspx?prodid=PKF1

https://www.bypasskit.com/product.aspx?prodid=555FW

I tested for the GEM as Twelvoltz suggested and the door unlocks so I don't think I need to "wake up the GEM."

1.  It sounds like I need a relay for my factory remote to activate the remote starter as the Crimestopper unit requires three (-) pulses.  Apparently I assumed incorectly that since I have a negative trigger doorlock wiring that it's output is negative.  I'll pick up a relay tomorrow and put it in to convert the (+) from the lock wire to a (-). 

2. The bypass I'm using is Omega IB-F1.  If I put the key in the ignition, press lock on the door 3 times, it does start (and the theft light is solid with the key in the ignition.)  Without the key in the ignition, the "Theft" light on the dash is flashing while attempting to start.  I don't understand why the bypass is not working.  I hooked up the brown (negative ground when running) on the bypass to the yellow/black (neg. ignition output) on the remote start, Violet on the bypass has no connection (n/c), and the other 4 wires per the instructions of Type A bypass (ground, ignition, ECM-RX, and ECM-TX.)  I also programmed the bypass by turning the key to the "ON" position after wiring it.  Any ideas on why my bypass is not working? 

Chris Luongo wrote:

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Unfortunately, I'm not familiar with Crimestopper wire colors, or the particular bypass you have.

But, every Ford bypass I've ever seen has required two good Ford keys to program..........are you sure yours doesn't have instructions that require you to perform a sequence with two existing keys?

But, at least you have it narrowed down to two small problems.

The remote start installation is good. You already know how to correct the activation issue. The only thing left really, is the bypass.......you're doing well so far!

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Chris the bypass he is using is made by Omega the module bypass is the same as a bypasskits PKF1 simple to install and it only requires 1 key for programming.

Relay is installed to convert + to - (+ signal coming from lock motor pink/black) and the factory remote works!  Thanks for the help in solving this issue.

My bypass is still giving me problems.  I called Omega tech help today and they recommended I get the ignition signal directly from the ignition 1 wire and to put the ground right to the chasis....so I did.  They also confirmed the RX and TX wires that I tapped into.  They mentioned sometimes you can try to reverse the RX and TX wires (I tried this with no success.)  The only other wire is the (-) ignition signal coming from the remote start (yellow/black) that goes to the brown wire on the bypass.  They also confirmed that 1 key programs it.  I've done all the above, and the theft light won't go solid during remote start unless I have the key in the ignition (meaning my bypass is not working.)  This is the final piece of the puzzle for my remote start to work.  Please reply with any ideas on getting my bypass to work.  Thanks! 

I did your above described test twice.  Once with the RX and TX wires hooked up per the installation manual, and once reversed per the mfg. suggestion.  No luck getting the bypass to work.

How do I test to make sure the brown wire on the bypass (- ground when running) is getting the proper signal from the remote start module? 

Any other ideas on why the bypass is not working?

mjs281 wrote:

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I did your above described test twice.  Once with the RX and TX wires hooked up per the installation manual, and once reversed per the mfg. suggestion.  No luck getting the bypass to work.

How do I test to make sure the brown wire on the bypass (- ground when running) is getting the proper signal from the remote start module? 

Any other ideas on why the bypass is not working?

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Ground the brown wire of the bypass , then hit the remote starter see if it works. If so the ground status of the rermote start is not the right timing or is not working as it should.

Tonight I grounded the brown wire on the bypass, re-programmed it, and still nothing.  I also swapped the RX and TX, re-programmed, and nothing.  I'm assuming that I received a bad bypass module.  I'm going to request a replacement and hopefully this solves my problems.