intellistart ford mondeo/contour

Hi,
I had to start a new thread as i somehow managed to post 3 pics next to eachother in my last and it makes it a hard to read anything without having to constantly scroll back and forth.
Tried contacting the asministrators to get the pics removed but couldnot get them.

Origional post: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~99926~PN~1

Hi guys,
First off let me appoligise for the long post. I'm trying to give as much details as possible.

I'm having some problems with installing an intellistart.
It’s installed on the back of a concept 100.

It just won’t work when I try to activate safe start (pressing headlight and boot release buttons together while engine is running) the indicators flash twice, I turn off the ignition and the engine stops running. If I push the * button while the engine is to active resume power feature again the engine cuts off.

If I try it in Automatic transmission mode. arm the car, press the * button the ignition turns on, the car starts and runs for 2 seconds then cuts off, it then attempts to start again with the same result.

I’m aware that this car has a transponder key so when I’m trying to remote start I’m leaving the key in the ignition while trying to remote start. I intend to glue a programmed transponder onto the RF receiver ring.

I have tried to do the mandatory RPM programming via the valet switch by entering my valet code then push and hold the * side for about 13 seconds until I get 3 chirps. I then push the blank side once, wait for a chirp then press the * side 5 times each time I press the star the alarm chirps. I then get 2 chirps and 2 flashes from the indicators to confirm RPM has been set. I then turn off the ignition and get 3 chirps which I guess is to confirm you have exited programming mode.

I have connected the intellistart to cliffnet wizard on a laptop. When I click on the starter icon and click RPM I get “no code” in the little box. Starting Threshold is displaying 0. Pulses/revs are set to 0 but I have tried changing this to different numbers with no luck.
On the Input Status & Output Control When I click Turn Ignition On the ignition turns on when I click start engine the engine does not start. If I click pulse starter the starter pulses once and 90% of the time it’s enough to start the car. When I click Start Engine while in automatic transmission I think it starts and the engine will run for about 2 seconds the shut down again.
So it looks like it could be a problem with programming the RPM although it seems to be programming ok via the valet switch.
I am using Cliffnet Wizard Pro 2.1 but I have just got a hold of version 2.2 but have yet to try that.
Wire Connections:
1 Orange Accessory output – Connected this to the wire that is live when the key is live when the key is turned 1 click
2 Red Battery positive (30-amp fuse) 12V (+) input – Connected directly to the battery
3 ORANGE / Gray Ignition 2 output – Not Connected
4 GREEN/ Blue Ignition 1 output – Connected to the wire that is live when the key is turned 2 clicks
6 Gray/Orange Heater 2 output – Not Connected
7 WHITE/ Blue Starter output – Connected to the wire that is live during cranking
8 Red Battery positive (30-amp fuse) 12V (+) input – Connected directly to the battery
9 Gray Heater / Air Conditioner 1 output – Not connected


1 BLACK/ Green Ground for automatic transmission mode – Not connected (unless I am trying to start in automatic transmission mode).
2 Violet/White Pulse out (negative) after remote start for door lock upon remote start – Not Connected
3 WHITE/ Black Hood input (-) – Connected to hood switch (unless I am trying to start in automatic transmission mode).
4 WHITE/ Violet Pulse out (negative) before remote start for factory disarm prior to remote start – Not connected
5 Red Battery positive (5-amp fuse) 12V (+) input – Connected directly to battery
6 Blue/Orange Out (negative) when remotely started for additional ignition relay or factory disarm – Not connected
7 Black Ground – Connected directly to battery
8 Blue/Black Negative switching “Wait to Start” bulb for diesel engine installations – Not connected

9 Blue / YELLOW Positive switching “Wait to Start” bulb for diesel engine installations – Not connected
10 Blue/Green Automatic transmission, connect to reverse light / manual, connect to emergency brake light – Connected to ignition live until I get the system working correctly then I will connect to a relay that will supply a live when the hand brake is up (unless I am trying to start in automatic transmission mode).
11 Blue/White Brake light input (+) - Connected to the wire that is live when brake pedal is pressed
12 BLACK/ Gray RPM Input – Connected to the wire behind the instrument cluster that supplies the signal for the tach. I have also tried connecting this to the injector wire. I know I’m getting a signal through this wire to the intellistart as I have connected an aftermarket tach to it and get an accurate readout when connected to the tach signal but when I try the injector wire I get a low reading on the aftermarket tach but I’m guessing this is because the signal is different.

Thanks for your advice Howie II but it didn’t make any difference.
I tried changing the crank time to 0.8 and also at max.
I've tried programming the tach signal manually; I get all the correct chirps and flashes but doesn’t make any difference.

I have skipped your advice about the transponder for now until I get the system to start my car properly. When I’m testing the system I am leaving the key in the ignition so the car can see the transponder.

I have updated to a Concept 300 Since the last post as I managed to corrupt 2 concept 100 brains with the cliffnet wizard software.

Here's what’s happening.
With the Blue/Green wire DISCONNECTED, Start the car press * to activate Retain Accessory Supply the indicators flash twice, I hear relays clicking and if I turn the car off immediately the ignition will turn on and the car will start for 3 seconds then cut off. When I press the boot release and the headlight buttons while the car is running I don’t get any flashes but hear relays clicking, if I press the 2 buttons aging I get 1 flash and again if I turn the car off immediately the car will remain running for 3 second before switching off.

With the Blue/Green wire connected to a 12v supply (I intend to invert the polarity with a relay connected to the handbrake switch when I get it working properly) and I press * with the engine running I get 6 Flashes from the indicators? Does not restart.

If I connect the Black Green Wire to temporary activate auto transmission mode and press the * the ignition turns on and the engine starts for 3 seconds then shuts down.

What am I doing wrong? I have checked all my connections so many times and I know they are all ok. There all soldered and insulated with heat shrink tubing.

I can rule out an intellistart brain fault as I have tried in my friend’s intellistart

The blue /green needs to see an earth (ground) to allow it to work, make sure your blue/white is not showing a voltage, do not use Wiz to set tach, do it manually, if you can don't use Wiz at all! Set the tach last!   will have no reading and go to earth (ground) when opened.Do the obvious, make sure hood pin switch is working properly, i.e. with hood closed it

Howie..... you need some more stars.

You have so much info to offer! Everytime I read one of your posts....I am amazed.

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I can't think of anything else, Cat I alarms (e.g. Concept 300) don't allow the indicators etc to function during R/S. The irony is that i've done at least 4, plus Cougars, plus Foci and never had any problems. Last, shove your meter on blue /green, it should read 12v+ on R/S ignition fire and on blue /white, which should show the same voltage on cranking.

damn howie, you do deserve more stars, but i guess mods are working up a new requiremnt to achieve stars.

I screwed up the IGNITION WIRE is GREEN/ BLUE  fromthe I/Start module, that's your main ign output back to the cars ign side loom heavy workload, heavy cold = lousey 3 day asthma and I'm wacked out on antibiotics, steroids and ever stronger puffers!

LOL, easily done. Had me a bit confused though.
Right, Checked that wires, all checking out fine.
Thanks allot for your help Howie, Much appreciated.

Just to let you see whats happening, Youtube vid

Anyone else got any ideas?

Just a couple of quick questions.
You say you fitted these before? what did you connect the tach wire to?

I'm away to try and connect the tach wire to a different point.
Looking at the connections on here it says
tach      WHITE/ Black        Or WHITE/ Green (-) at ICM Connector

Where and what is the ICM Connector?

Just a quick update for anyone that is interested. I've got it working. I cheated a little bit. After an awful lot of double, triple and quadruple checking my wiring I came to the conclusion that it was defiantly a tach signal problem. So I purchased a second had Intellistart from eBay, guessing it would still be programmed. I was right, all I had to do was swap it over with my one and away she went.
So by my reckoning it was either a weak tach signal (although I tried 3 different places) or a faulty intellistart. I dare not try and program the tach to this one.
My only problem is I need to set the voltage threshold as I accidentally left my dome light on and batter went flat. It would have been good if the intellistart kept the battery charged. As far as I have been lead to believe this can only be done via the cliffnet wizard but Howie has scared me by saying the software is flawed and there’s a risk of corrupting the settings and possibly forcing me to reprogram the tach and being right back to square one. Is there no way this can be done via the valet switch?

Anyone got any views on universal transponder bypass? I have glued a transponder to the RF ring but it's a bit temperamental, sometimes works, sometimes not. It's also stopping the key transponder from registering sometimes. I have to mess about with the key before it registers.