96 outback keyless, remote start

I have a 96 Subaru Outback that has factory power locks, no switch just open from lock lever and all other doors unlock, key does the same from outside. I want to install a keyless entry system and a remote start system while I am at it.

What do I need to know, I think I have found enough wiring diagrams to figure where everything plugs in. I have heard that I may need an actuator installed in the passenger side door. I am not sure what that would do, it seems that all doors already unlock with the power locks already.

I would like to get the parking lights to flash and turn on the dome light when the car is unlocked, in addition to simply unlocking the doors and starting the car.

What kind of lock mechanisms do I have? Do I need to do anything else to get ready, or can I just buy a decent aftermarket system and start running wires.

I have looke under the dash, I do not have the factory keyless entry system installed.

Any help in the way of tips, diagrams, and or recommendations on different systems would be great.

I have a copy of the factory keyless entry install instructions, but it does not do remote start.
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Thanks

You will need to install an actuator in the drivers door, not the passenger.  You will need a couple of relays to control the actuator. you can find a diagram for the actuator in the relay section at the top of the page. For the park light and dome light, any good system will have these features.

Wire/Function	Colour	Location/Description	Polarity
12 VOLTS	BLACK / YELLOW	Ignition harness	+
IGNITION	Red	Ignition harness	+
ACCESSORY	RED / yellow	Ignition harness	+
STARTER	Blue/red	Ignition harness	+
KEY SENSE	Yellow or BLACK / YELLOW	Ignition harness	+
TACH SIGNAL	Blue	Coil module
LOCK	WHITE/ red	White plug in driver's kick	-
MAY NOT HAVE DOORLOCK ACTUATOR IN DOOR, IF SO ONE WILL NEED TO BE INSTALLED. TEST BY TURNING KEY IN PASSENGER DOOR.
UNLOCK	White	White plug in driver's kick	-
MAY NOT HAVE DOORLOCK ACTUATOR IN DOOR, IF SO ONE WILL NEED TO BE INSTALLED. TEST BY TURNING KEY IN PASSENGER DOOR.
DOORPIN	RED / white	In blue plug high up in DKP	-
TRUNK PIN	Common with doorpin
TRUNK RELEASE	Manual release
FACTORY ARM	GREEN/ YELLOW	Driver's kick	-
FACTORY DISARM	WHITE/ green	Driver's kick	-
BRAKESWITCH	WHITE/ black	At switch above brake pedal	+
PARKLIGHTS	RED / green	On steering column	-
HAND BRAKE	YELLOW /GREEN	At handbrake or behind instrument panel	-
HORN	RED / green	At steering column	-
DRIVER WINDOW UP	Blue/red	At main window switch	REV POL
DRIVER WINDOW DOWN	Blue	At main window switch	REV POL
PASSENGER WINDOW UP	WHITE/ green	At main window switch	REV POL
PASSENGER WINDOW DOWN	White	At main window switch	REV POL
LEFT REAR WINDOW UP	WHITE/ red	At main window switch	REV POL
LEFT REAR WINDOW DOWN	WHITE/ red	At main window switch	REV POL
RIGHT REAR WINDOW UP	WHITE/ blue	At main window switch	REV POL
RIGHT REAR WINDOW DOWN	WHITE/ blue	At main window switch	REV POL
HEADLIGHTS	Blue/black	At light switch harness	-
REVERSE LIGHTS	Brown or BROWN / yellow	In driver's kickpanel	+
DIMMER	Yellow/blue	At any illuminated dash switch
VSS WIRE	GREEN/ black	At ECM in passenger kickpanel

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what is the deal with the actuator, is there not one involved in the factory power lock set up. I have not messed with locks yet, so i dont know that i understand what the actuator would do for me.

subydoo wrote:

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what is the deal with the actuator, is there not one involved in the factory power lock set up. I have not messed with locks yet, so I don’t know that I understand what the actuator would do for me.

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you need an actuator due to the fact that you have manual door locks, now even though it does unlock the other doors when you press on the drivers lock/unlock, it isn’t the same as most cars with electric locks, I believe this is referred to as a central locking system but I may be wrong. Because you have to physically move the lock and there is not a switch that produces an electrical pulse that the car translates into locking and unlocking the doors, you have to add an actuator. The actuator will physically move the rods connected to the locks and in turn it would mimic you moving the lock/unlock lever. When you wire up the actuators try to get your hands on a DEI 451M.

Hope this helps,

Jonathan

Thanks for the info.

So it sounds like i need a keyless kit, an actuator and some relays. can anyone recommend good kits for cheap. I want to install myself, like the challenge, and am interested only in the keyless entry and remote start.

A kit that comes with good instructions would be nice and what about the actuator, where do i get one of those?

So I installed a viper 550 esp into my 96 suabaru legacy outback, went pretty smooth, thing works well. I only installed the keyless entry and remote start systems. I went ahead and removed the rest of the unneeded wires from the harnesses. I did ground one of the door trigger wires so I could get in and out of valet mode.

Anyway, is there any whay to get the system to not arm, other than valet mode, when i lock it with the clicker. because if i lock it with the clicker, then unlock it with the key, once i get the key in the ignition, the alarm sequence occurs. No siren but flashing lights and clicking relays under the dash.

I like the flashing LED, so i dont want it to be in valet mode all the time. and what is it that is triggering the alarm, I assume it is coming from the ignition, because there are no door wires hooked up except the keyless entry leads, and the one door wire grounded. Can i unhook something, or ground something or wire something up that will cause the arming of the unit to be bypassed or turned off.

I know thats long, but just trying to dial this thing in for the wife.

Let me know if i can provide more info

Thanks

Anybody,

theres got to be a way to keep the brain from thinking the alarm sequence needs to be run. So I can just start the car, and unlock, lock the doors.