2004 chevy colorado, remote start

The bypass modules with dip switches aren't reliable at all.

Go with an Xpresskit XK06 or PLJX or an idatalink ADS-DL that has the proper firmware loaded on it.

Here is the wiring for the vehicle:
12 VOLT CONSTANT       GET THE 12VOLTS FROM VHICLES BATTERY ONLY       @ BATTERY ONLY      
STARTER       not used!       See NOTE *1      
IGNITION 1       WHITE/ GREEN to DARK BLUE (+)       IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS      
IGNITION 2       See NOTE *1            
ACCESSORY /HEATER BLOWER 1       WHITE/ RED to BROWN (+)       IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS      
PARKING LIGHTS ( - )       BROWN / WHITE (-)       @ BCM, GRAY Plug, Pin A7, See NOTE *4      
PARKING LIGHTS ( + )       BROWN (+)       @ BCM, BLACK Plug, Pin A48, See NOTE *4      
POWER LOCK       LIGHT BLUE (TYPE B)       @ BCM, BLACK Plug, Pin A11, See NOTE *4      
POWER UNLOCK       DARK BLUE (TYPE B)       @ BCM, BLACK Plug, See NOTE *4      
LOCK MOTOR WIRE       GRAY (+)       @ DOOR LOCK SWITCH in DRIVERS DOOR      
DOOR TRIGGER       See NOTE *2      
DOMELIGHT SUPERVISION       WHITE to DARK GREEN / WHITE (-)       @ BCM, BLACK Plug, Pin A46, See NOTE *4      
HORN       GREEN to BLACK (-)       @ BCM, GRAY plug, Pin A25, See NOTE *4      
TACH       ANY wire that is NOT PINK or BLACK       @ any IGNITION COIL or FUEL INJECTOR      
WAIT TO START LIGHT                  
BRAKE       LIGHT BLUE (+)       @ STEERING COLUMN HARNESS      
ANTI-THEFT       GM'S NEW PASSLOCK 2 ANTI-THEFT System      
NOTES
NOTE *1 This vehicle requires a special PASSLOCK 2 Bypass module

NOTE *2 This vehicle has (4) door trigger wires the GREY/BLACK (-) is used for the DRIVERS door Pin A32, the PASSENGER door is a LIGHT GREEN/ BLACK (-) Pin A38, the DRIVERS REAR door is a LIGHT BLUE/BLACK (-) Pin A39 and the PASSENGERS REAR door is a BLACK/ WHITE (-) Pin A39 all are located at the BCM's BLACK Plug. When connecting to an ALARM SYSTEM use all 4 and DIODE ISOLATE.


NOTE *3 this vehicle uses the NEW PASSLOCK 2 ANTI-THEFT System


NOTE *4 the BCM is located in the PASSENGER KICK PANEL.

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GDK Electronics
Home theatre & mobile electronics installations
Winnipeg, MB

The bypass module will take care of any connections not listed in the wiring chart.

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GDK Electronics
Home theatre & mobile electronics installations
Winnipeg, MB

thanks again GregK,i will look into the PLJX modual and hopefully that will take care of things

Just use two relays, one diode, and the correct resistor value. I did this on a H3 yesterday and they are almost identical trucks electrically.  Basically you start the vehicle, then cut the resistance wire and then measure to the reference wire while cranking the vehicle (truck has anti-grind, so dont worry about hitting the starter while its running). Then, using two relays you need to unlatch acc and use the second relay to insert the correct resistance to disable theft system. The trucks starter begins when ignition is 12+ and acc is 0.

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Collyn Eastham
a.k.a. 300MBQuart
08 HHR Panel

collyn eastham wrote:

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Just use two relays, one diode, and the correct resistor value. I did this on a H3 yesterday and they are almost identical trucks electrically. Basically you start the vehicle, then cut the resistance wire and then measure to the reference wire while cranking the vehicle (truck has anti-grind, so dont worry about hitting the starter while its running). Then, using two relays you need to unlatch acc and use the second relay to insert the correct resistance to disable theft system. The trucks starter begins when ignition is 12+ and acc is 0.

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that is the way I do it at my shop I work at with no problem on canyons, colorados, and H3

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The wire I'm test'n isn't doin' what it's supposed to be doin'... I am so glad I printed that tech sheet, with the wrong info.
Do it right the first time... or I might have to fix it for ya

i had some difficulty measuring the resistance,actualy reading the correct ohm value.i think my mult-meter was set at 2K ohms setting and got a reading of .372 and thought initally that meant 372 ohms,??.never really tested anything of this nature before so not real sure if that was correct or i had made wrong connections or what was going on.hit remote,truck would start but had no dash lights/heater and would shut off a few seconds later.at any rate,i ordered a PLJX self learning bypass kit and should have it on 1/23 or 1/24,so i will try that and hopefully get my R/S installed on saturday.thanks to all that have shared info and if any one could elaborate on the ohms deal,maybe i could get a better understanding of that for the future>

to test you cut wire after truck is running. Put negative test lead on the reference wire in ignition harness and the positive lead to the side of wire you cut going to key cylinder. Then turn key as to start and hold, starter will not grind because there is a factory anti grind built into these trucks. Measure resistance at lowest and work your way up, auto ranging meter will do this automatically. See what you get for value and see what range you are in. You may have gotten a false reading the first time you did this so you may want to start from scratch on the ohms part. WHITE/ blue is cut and WHITE/ yellow is reference.

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The wire I'm test'n isn't doin' what it's supposed to be doin'... I am so glad I printed that tech sheet, with the wrong info.
Do it right the first time... or I might have to fix it for ya

So that is with cutting the wire and turning key to start position and holding it there to get a reading.

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The wire I'm test'n isn't doin' what it's supposed to be doin'... I am so glad I printed that tech sheet, with the wrong info.
Do it right the first time... or I might have to fix it for ya

that's correct techman93,wire cut and key in crank position

I have not gotten a reading like that before. Had you kept that setting and try testing some resistors and see if you can get within 10% of that. That is what you should try.

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The wire I'm test'n isn't doin' what it's supposed to be doin'... I am so glad I printed that tech sheet, with the wrong info.
Do it right the first time... or I might have to fix it for ya

well,got it straightend out today.resistance reading was indeed 372 ohms,but i had cut wrong wire,cut the WHITE/ yellow instead of WHITE/ blue.so i have my dip switches set to 381 ohms and everything is fine now.got the door lock/unlock wired up so that part is operational as well.just need to double check parking light wire so i can connect that.overall very pleased with this R/S unit.forget the model # but it is made by valiant.(ordered from j.c. whitney for $56)has 1,000FT range,keyless capable,l.e.d light to show its operating.think i will order a 2nd unit to upgrade the one in my wifes van.current one is a basic R/S w/400ft range(bulldog security)a BIG thank you to techman93 and gregk for their help and insight with this project.thanks again guys