2001 maxima factory disarm/rearm

I'm bench prepping a Viper 5900SST with an XK05 for a 2001 Nissan Maxima with factory "security" (no pun intended). I know that the disarm will be handled by the unlock pulse from the 5900. But, directechs doesn't state anything about whether or not I need the factory rearm wire. 1.Will it rearm right off of the lock wire? 2.Is the factory rearm even needed? 3.With the XK05, will the doors stay locked while starting or will it unlock, start, then lock?

Thanks for any and all information

I just did a Maxima and hooked the GREEN/ black to the blue wire together and set double pulse for unlock and then went into driver door for the unlock wire. It will disarm upon remote start and unlock with button press for unlock on transmitter. I actually installed an AM 6.2 single button DEI Automate into this vehicle. It will stay locked when remote starting. I believe it should arm with lock wire hooked up.

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The wire I'm test'n isn't doin' what it's supposed to be doin'... I am so glad I printed that tech sheet, with the wrong info.
Do it right the first time... or I might have to fix it for ya

I wish those tech sheets would be more detailed.

--You don't need to disarm before remote starting. The car will not unlock before remote starting. Just hook the unit's unlock wire to the blue/orange in the car, and set for double pulse.

--If the customer uses the "auto" feature of the headlight switch, connect your "rearm" wire to the driver's doorpin wire. The autolights won't time out until the car "sees" an open door...........if you don't hook it up, and the customer remote starts the car at night, and shuts it back off by remote without driving....the lights will stay on and drain the battery.

thanks for the responses. very helpful.

chris, i know you've done quite a bit of maxima's and wrote up a piece on the window up/down through the door. i don't think this will work on my maxima. when i put the key in the door and hold it to the side, it doesn't roll up or down. my guess is it came on 02-up maxima's. have you successfully done this on an 00-01?

thanks again

Two more questions, I'm running an XK05 on this install. On the XK05 diagram it states to connect the wires to the "Connector located under the ignition key barrel". Does this mean the ignition harness.

Also, the XK05 manual states to cut the Ignition wire in half and connect one wire to each side: key side and ECM side. It states Pink/white & Blue to the key side and Pink to the ECM side. Which side of the cut ignition wire do i connect the Viper 5900's ignition output (pink) to? The ECM or key side?

Thanks for the compliments, and for remembering my window diagram.

I don't think that's going to work in any car that doesn't have the feature.

I should also add that even in the cars that do have it, the ignition must be off, and if the ignition is turned on and then off, you must either open a door, or wait 45 seconds.........any chance you were reaching through a window, testing the factory alarm and stuff, right before you tried the windows? Just a thought.

The thick pink ignition wire from the remote starter, goes to the car's main ignition wire coming down the steering column.

ONLY the XK05 should be interfaced with the other ignition wire, as shown in the diagram.

Basically, when you get the column cover off, you see the ring around the keyhole that lights up? Well, that's also the antenna that communincates with the car's key........somewhere on the body of that lighted ring, should be the plug you're looking for. All of the wires are fairly small, and are completely separate from the ones you want for remote start.

For the remote start part, the ignition wires seem difficult, but there's a way to make them easier.

1. Remove column shroud cover. Below the turn signal lever, you can see the backside of the ignition switch, with a white plug, with six heavy wires coming out of it. Pry off the white cover of the plug, so you can see the wires.

2. To the right side of the column, there are two bundles of wires running down into the body of the car, held in place with zip ties and heavy plastic tubing. Cut the zip ties, slice the tape, remove the tube.

3. Look back at the ignition switch, where you pried off that cover. Make a mental note of the appearance (size, color, stripe) of all the wires. Now, go back to where you removed that plastic tube, and locate the same six wires over there. TEST them carefully, of course. And try to remember to put back that little white cover before you put the car together.

The WHITE/ blue accessory wire is just for the radio and other things like that, you don't need it for remote start. You could reconfigure the Viper's pink/white "ignition 2" output as a second starter, instead of having to wire up a separate relay.

I've only done maybe two or three XK05s on Nissans, but yes, you read it right......they have you connecting two wires from the module, to the same place on the car.

I think it might be because those modules can be configured to do a LOT of different kinds of cars......probably if they made a dedicated Nissan module, they wouldn't have had to build it that way.

As for the WHITE/ blue wire, that's the second-accessory that I mentioned.....blue/white in the car, not on the remote start. But if you prefer to power it up, that's just as well too.

And yes, that duct tape helps!

If you should somehow blow the fuse that powers the ignition wire.........well, um, try not to. It's actually not one fuse, but three fuses contained in one case (you can see it in the underhood fusebox if you want). The dealers I've worked with don't keep them in stock, and you won't find one at AutoZone.

1 out of 4 so you have to test each wire, not that hard with a computer safe test light.

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The wire I'm test'n isn't doin' what it's supposed to be doin'... I am so glad I printed that tech sheet, with the wrong info.
Do it right the first time... or I might have to fix it for ya

Yes, what he said. I sure hope you're testing all of your wires.

The best thing on that car is to have the kick panel removed, and unwrap the harness that goes to the back of the car. Parking lights and brake are both in there.

If you can make your connections a little bit higher in the kick panel, that'll be more reliable, in my opinion.

You can make the connections along the doorsill where the harness runs to the back of the car, but it's a little more vulnerable to moisture there, if the carpet should get wet during rainy/snowy weather.

Thanks guys, thats exactly what i ended up doing. the only other issue is that i recall Chris stating that i should connect the rearm wire to the driver's doorpin, if i use the auto headlight feature. It was here:

"--If the customer uses the "auto" feature of the headlight switch, connect your "rearm" wire to the driver's doorpin wire. The autolights won't time out until the car "sees" an open door...........if you don't hook it up, and the customer remote starts the car at night, and shuts it back off by remote without driving....the lights will stay on and drain the battery."

I discovered that the lights stay on after the car stops RS even when just having the regular (non-auto) headlights turned to the on position. So I guess i must connect the rearm to the driver's doorpin. But, will a diode be needed for this connection?

A diode will only be necessary if that rearm wire ends up triggering the 5900's alarm.  To test:

Connect the factory rearm (-) output from the 5900 to the driver's doorpin wire. This connection should ideally be at the same point that you have connected your door trigger input.

Arm the 5900. Wait 10-15 seconds and remote start. Once the car is started, shut it down with the remote(the 5900 needs to still be armed at this point).  If the alarm doesn't go off, no extra diode is necessary.

If the alarm goes off there - you'll need to cut the driver's doorpin wire and insert a diode so that the following are true:

Cathode(striped) side is facing the door pin switch, anode side is facing the SECU.
Door trigger input for the 5900 is connected on the cathode side.
Factory rearm output is connected on the anode side.

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