Printer Friendly Forum Posts - auto page 900lcd

Have not done one of the Autopage systems but if you look at the wire diagram for the RX330 there are several things that you will need to know how to interface and bypass:

Door Trigger :The driver door trigger is blue at the BECU, 16 pin plug, pin 14. The passenger door is blue at the BECU, 28 pin plug, pin 23. The right rear door is gray at the BECU, 16 pin plug, pin 16. The left rear door is black, pin 7, in a 13 pin plug on the right side of the fuse box. Use all four wires and diode isolate each.

Door Lock & Unlock:Located in the driver door module in door

Immobilizer Bypass:You will also need to tap into the key sense wire to bypass the OEM alarm and also the factory immobilizer system requires a bypass module to allow the remote start to start the vehicle.

-------------
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

thank for you help again,so i have to use diode for all door trigger,can i use this diode from radio shack(1N4001),and on the wire diagram what do it mean to double pulse the door unlock,and thank's again for answering all of my question

The 1N4001 are exactly what you need for the door triggers & the Double pulse unlock means that if you will need to program your door unlock output pulse to pulse 2 times, the first for OEM alarm disarm and the second to unlock all doors.

-------------
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

There is also a data module available that would control the door locks without having to run wires into the door. Here is bypasskit.com's version of it. This is not an item that is mandatory but it makes it a little easier for someone who does not do these types of systems all the time.

-------------
Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.

thank's Velocity Motors and Twelvoltz for your help!and for the door lock do i have to use relays for that?and the auto page alarm is asking for neg (-) signal from the netual safty switch,do i need to hook that up?where can i find this wire?and what about the trunk latch that goes up when the trunk button is press?what will i need for that option to work?and i'm looking to get a by-pass module for the ignition.is this brand good(idata link)the solo series?sorry for asking to many question,but i just wanna know what i'm goin up agaist before i do it! Thank's again for everyone's help i apperciated

Power Lock - BROWN or VIOLET (-) in driver door
Power Unlock - GRAY (-) in driver door

the autopage unit offers a negative output for lock and unlock. no need to use relays, the output from the brain is enough to trigger factory relays to unlock/lock the doors.

As for the NSS neutral safety switch, i dont think these suvs are offered as manual tranny anyways, simply GROUND this wire. it just prevents older model cars from starting in gear. newer cars have this featured built into the key cylinder so when a car is not in P it wont start.

In order for you to pop the hach/trunk, you will need a relay and an AUXILLARY output from the unit. the wire is VIOLET (-) @ trunk release button. use a relay to send a negative. heres how to wire it up

85 - constant 12v
86 - aux output from alarm (-)
87 - high current ground
30 - to trunk release wire VIOLET

iDataLink offers very dependable and reliable units. the solo are entry level units but they do the job for a vey good price. also a real time saver (depending on car) BTW what year RX330 we talkin about, from 04 - 05 the wires are same, but 06, wires change colours, so please confirm. the wiring info i posted above is for 05 (between both years)

thank for your help tedmond!and the year is 2004 lexus rx330,do i have to use idatalink by pass module or do you have any other one that you can think of that is good with this alarm or car?i apperciated any help

and i one more thing do i have to install starter kill?because it came with a relay

well i have used fortin and idatalink. i would pick either, they are both very good units to use. as for starrter kill, it doesnt have to be installed in, but its nice to have. if you decide not to have the starter kill installed, you can use that relay to do your trunk release, that wway you dont spend more money.

and one more thing,on the alarm remote start,it have 2 red,start 1 and 2,and violet.starter(+)output,pink:ignition2(+) output,yellow:ignitio 1(+) output,brown:ac/heater(+) output,i don't understand the violet wire?

Red Wire (2) - probably and most likely your 12v power inputs
Starter Wire 1 and 2 - only one is needed unless you own a toyota or nissan.
Pink - Ignition 2
Yellow - ignition 1
Brown - accessory wire

well those are the wires you will use for sure. im not sure what violet starter is, because no car has 3 starter wires from my experiance. you should test the wires that come off the unit with a DMM (digital multi meter) and see what that does. if your volt meter reads 12v for a second or so, then thats an additional start wire. if you can scan me the unit wiring printout, i can tell you what its for. i used to do some autopage and i think it was used as an additional acc or start wire if needed.

this what is say in the installatin manual

here's the website,its on page 6,7,8

https://www.autopageusa.com/resources/RS-900%20Install%20-0702011.pdf

and thank's again for your help

Connector H1 (6 pin) heres what they have

Violet - starter wire
Red (2) - fused 12v
Yellow - Ignition 1
Pink - Ignition 2
Brown - Accessory or Blower Motor.

dont get confused with Gay/Black - (-) 200mA Starter 2 Output. this is used to power up an additional relay for starter wire 2 if your car has one. remeber anything that you see that has a NEGATIVE Output Rated @ 250mA, its usually used to drive a relay.

Has anyone installed this in any 05+ Dodge Chargers? I had it installed in mine and my instrument lights will not go off when key is in ignition and brake pedal is stepped on. Anyone know what is the cause of this?

did u install it yourself or did a shop/certified dealer install it? if you had it done at a shop bring it back and ask them why its doing that. they coer warrenty for that stuff. if you did it urself make sure u put the parking lights throught a 1.6k ohm resistor .

i had a friend install it who has experience putting in car alarms but has never installed one for a charger...so my problem is the parking lights isnt running through a 1.6k ohm resistor?

hey i'm half way done with the installment but i having trouble with the door lock,is the big wire grey and brown for the small wires,is it the door control module or switch?are you sure you don't need relays,thank's for all your help tedmond

puffyd wrote:

i had a friend install it who has experience putting in car alarms but has never installed one for a charger...so my problem is the parking lights isnt running through a 1.6k ohm resistor?

the parking lights should be going through the resistor for it to work properly. that way it wil only trigger parking lights and that will also force instrument cluster lights to go on as well.

dstyls wrote:

hey i'm half way done with the installment but i having trouble with the door lock,is the big wire grey and brown for the small wires,is it the door control module or switch?are you sure you don't need relays,thank's for all your help tedmond

well what i have here is this.

Power Unlock - Gray (-) in driver door
Power Lock - Brown (-) in driver door

this is the the wires that run from the switch to the control module where the relays are. you wont need relays because you are triggering the relay in the control module which will lock/unlock the doors. so i would say no relays are needed but if you feel uncertain about the output from the unit, you can add relays no problem. test the wires with the key in the cylinder and unlock requires double pulse. single pulse diarms factory alarm and second pulse unlocks doors.

i only got the driver door to work,cant get all the other door to work,

ok i got all the door to work when you press the remote unlock button twice,sometimes it works and sometimes it will not work,i was wondering if you can program it unlock all door at once,and wat do you mean by double pulse unlock door,disarm factory alarm,meaning installing this Pink Wire: 2-Step Unlock /Factory Disarm /Sensor By-pass wirefrom the alarm to the black wire at the ignition harness?but thank's for the help on that trunk info,everything is working good,have not install the remote start yet!

tedmond wrote:

puffyd wrote:

i had a friend install it who has experience putting in car alarms but has never installed one for a charger...so my problem is the parking lights isnt running through a 1.6k ohm resistor?

the parking lights should be going through the resistor for it to work properly. that way it wil only trigger parking lights and that will also force instrument cluster lights to go on as well.

I will pass this on to my friend and will let you know how it goes. Thanks for your help!

dstyls wrote:

ok i got all the door to work when you press the remote unlock button twice,sometimes it works and sometimes it will not work,i was wondering if you can program it unlock all door at once,and wat do you mean by double pulse unlock door,disarm factory alarm,meaning installing this Pink Wire: 2-Step Unlock /Factory Disarm /Sensor By-pass wirefrom the alarm to the black wire at the ignition harness?but thank's for the help on that trunk info,everything is working good,have not install the remote start yet!

well remote start is straight forward. just 5 wires and voila plus your transponder bypass. well, i have installed autopage units before and they offer double pulse unlock. As i mentioned the unit is defaulted as single pulse. everytime you hit the control, it disarms then with a second press, it opens doors. i looked over the manual and it does offer double pulse. its a programming feature on page 21. look for

ALARM FEATURE “B” PROGRAMMING under Two Chirps /LED two pulses

the only wires i have left to install is the keysense wire,to i have to install the Pink Wire: 2-Step Unlock /Factory Disarm /Sensor By-pass form the alarm to the black wire at the ignition harness?thank's for the info for the dp lock,i got it to work,thank's man,just waiting for by pass module to come in to finish the alarm

one more thing should i connect the signel tach wire to the pin#5 on top of tge ecm,it read 0 volt when engine not running and 7.15 volt when engine running?

dstyls wrote:

the only wires i have left to install is the keysense wire,to i have to install the Pink Wire: 2-Step Unlock /Factory Disarm /Sensor By-pass form the alarm to the black wire at the ignition harness?thank's for the info for the dp lock,i got it to work,thank's man,just waiting for by pass module to come in to finish the alarm

the pink wire will go to the UNLOCK wire on the car. diode isolate with the unlock wire since th eunlock wire disarms with one pulse. the thing is, units from DEI offer pulse before start on the unlock wires but with autopage that option isnt available. so useing 2 diodes (1 amp) connect one to the UNLOCK, and one to the Pink wire. THe diode cathode band (white strip) towards the alarm

keysense is Ignition 1. the ignition on that car is VIOLET (+).

for Tach, this is what i have.

Tach Signal - @ Injector any colour but RED. Pin 5. or you can use the crankshaft sensor as well.

Crankshaft Sensor - @ Injector OR ECM Module (RIGHT SIDE OF GLOVEBOX) GREEN - Pin 24

so useing 2 diodes (1 amp) connect one to the UNLOCK, and one to the Pink wire. THe diode cathode band (white strip) towards the alarm,meaning connecting to diode together white stripe towards down alarm to pink wire

correct so, with a diode, place ONE on the unlock wire and the other diode onto the Pink wire. Make sure that the White band or strip is facing the alarm unit. then connect both those diodes to the unlock wire on the car. if you are still confused, post a message and i will graw you up a diagram. or look at this diagram on this page.

https://www.the12volt.com/diodes/diodes.asp

assume
BROWN is the unlock wire on the car
GREEN is Unlock from autopage
BLUE is the PINK Wire from the autopage unit.

thank's man everything is working except for remote starting i receive the fortin key override sl2 and it will not let me program any of my keys,the led keep on flashing,it will not let me program,if the led keep on flashing it's meaning that it already been program to another vehicle right,piece of crap,because i can remote start the car if the key is in the key cylinder,help please

fortin pieces yes are ONLY one time programmable. make sure you used the proper connection setup Method # 7. also make sure you have all wires connected. where did you buy the module from? well try this.

1) dissconect wires to the key override
2) wait 1 min HOLD PROGRAMMING BUTTON
3) Insert CONNECTOR 1 (4 pin)
4) Quickly inster CONNECTOR 2 (6 pin)
5) once the RED LED turns on, let go of the button
6) place a key into the ignition, No need to turn it to ON, just place into cylinder.

now, if it still flashes yes it has been programmed for a differant vehicle. go back to the person your bought it from and say it was already programmed, if you got it straight from a local dealer, its easy for you because you can simply go change it, if you got it from the net (ebay) then your seller might not take it back.