I don't think you can "elimnate" the security system like that-- I think when you do that- it actually runs in the "tamper" mode- and the next time you lose battery power- (unhook your battery) that it will not start with that wire cut- from what I have read-- I never have tried that method- but have always used the resistive bypass method for Passlock II -- for a $7 module- why try anything else?

Is your theft light on when driving and starting with the key?

Here is what the service manual for your car says.......

Vehicle Theft Deterrent (VTD) Description

Important

Due to component variability, the vehicle theft deterrent (VTD) system must have the learn procedure performed regardless, if the vehicle starts on the first ignition cycle after a VTD repair.

All codes in the theft deterrent module must be cleared for a relearn.

The vehicle theft deterrent system is designed in order to prevent vehicle theft by disabling the fuel injectors unless the lock cylinder is correctly engaged by a mechanical key. The theft deterrent system uses the following 4 components for theft prevention:

• The lock cylinder
• The ignition switch
• The body control module (BCM)
• The powertrain control module (PCM)

When starting the engine, the PCM searches for a password from the BCM through the Class 2 serial data circuit. If the password is not recognized or not present, the PCM will disable the engine. Two modes of tamper detection are provided:

1. No password received The engine will start and stall quickly. SECURITY telltale will flash on the instrument panel cluster (IPC) and then stay ON steady.
2. Incorrect or disable password received (More than 3 invalid passwords are received) The engine is disabled for at least 10 minutes and the SECURITY telltale will illuminate solid on the IPC during the 10 minutes.

After the vehicle has passed theft detection, the PCM will continue normal operation.

Ignition Switch

The mechanical key and lock cylinder is located in the instrument panel assembly. The electrical switching portion of the assembly is separate from the key and lock cylinder. Both of the components are synchronized and work in conjunction through the action of the actuator rod assembly.

Passlock™ Lock Cylinder

The Passlock™ lock cylinder is a locking cylinder that turns a rotating magnet past a stationary hall effect sensor. This action creates the Passlock™ cylinder data. The Passlock™ cylinder data is sent to the Body Control Module (BCM). The Passlock™ lock cylinder is interfaced with the BCM via a 3-wire connection:

• Power
• Ground
• Data

Powertrain Control Module (PCM)

The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) is located on the lower left side of the instrument panel.

The PCM communicates with the Body Control Module (BCM) via serial data over the class 2 serial data bus, CKT 1807. When the BCM determines a passed theft condition, the BCM sends a coded password to the PCM. When the PCM receives the correct password, the PCM enables the fuel injection system, allowing the vehicle to operate correctly. The PCM may allow the car to start and quickly stall during a failed theft condition.

The following conditions may cause the PCM to enter a tamper mode:

• A bad timing cycle
• An incorrect password

If the BCM does not receive a password within a preset time window, the BCM will enter a short tamper mode. During this mode, the PCM will not allow the car to operate for 4 seconds.

If the password is incorrect, the PCM will enter the long tamper mode. In the long tamper mode, the following actions will occur:

• The THEFT SYSTEM indicator will flash.
• The fuel injectors will be shut off for approximately 10 minutes.

Although the vehicle may start, the engine will quickly stall due to a fuel cut-off.

In the event of an open in the serial data communication between the BCM and the PCM, the following actions occur:

• The PCM will become fail-enabled if the car has already passed theft for that ignition cycle (i.e. the engine is running).
• The PCM may set the diagnostic trouble codes (DTC).
• The THEFT SYSTEM indicator will light continuously.
• The PCM will become fail-enabled for future ignition cycles.

If a failure occurs in serial data before the ignition cycle, while the PCM is not fail-enabled, the PCM will never receive a valid password in order to enable the continued use of the fuel injectors

I agree- that is a classic remote start not running symptom when cold-- go with tach sensing

Now you got me interested-- does the theft light never come on?

Where did you ground the r/s unit at?

adamsaudio wrote:

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Where did you ground the r/s unit at?

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customak47 wrote:

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sounds like to me you are using a dei remote starter and the voltage sense needs to be set to low voltage sense or shut the engine checking off.

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pbrian37 wrote:

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i really don't understand this forum. you ask for help and you decline to listen. these people are giving you good advice. First, use some sort of bypass kit on your car. They are correct. It cannot be removed. After you have done so, let everyone know what method you used if the problem persists.

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Since everyone has been so insistant that it is a bypass issue...I tried it.  It did not work.  The only thing that was different with the bypass was the fact that my security light was off.  With the bypass the car still wouldnt start and stay running when cold, and after running at least once that day it would run fine.  It is not that my car is inconsistent  with the remote starting....in fact, it is very consistent.  The remote works when it is warm out or when the car has been run at least once earlier in the day.  It consistently starts and shuts off after 10-15 seconds when it is cold out or has not been run at all that day.

I appreciate all of your responses...however, I am now 100% convinced this is absolutely not a security issue.  It didnt make sense for it to be a security in the first place, and now I have confirmed it.  So again, I would appreciate any other advice for this remote starter...but it is not a security system or bypass problem. 

Additionally, I again realize that cutting the security wire is not the standard way of bypassing the system.  However, according to GM...the manufacturer of my car, it works and is a much cheaper option to a bypass (which I did not find for less than 40) if you dont care about your security light being on. So please, stop telling me that this is so terrible; I am respectfully disagreeing and asking you to stop posting comments to that effect.

I understand that many of you dont agree with how I originally bypassed my security system...so I did it your way, and it still does the same thing as before.  Now do you believe me? 

Any new suggestions are most definitely welcome, but please do not post the same tired suggestions.  I just want a functioning remote start, and continuing to post about my security system is not getting me there.

Thanks again.