Printer Friendly Forum Posts - remote start 02 grand cherokee limited

Any info would be appreciated. Im getting ready to install a Scytek 100RS remote start kit in my Wife's 02 Grand Cherokee Limited. My main concerns are the factory alarm system and if I need to use the disarm of the module and how I go about doing this. Also, the bypass module I got for the transponder system is very vague in the instructions. It tells me to energize the ignition system for part of the programming but doesnt tell me how. Can I cut myself a non-transponder key and use that for the programming cycle and since it doesnt have a chip inside then the bypass module should accept the programming instead. Does that sound like it will work? Or do I have to jumper the ignition somehow to energize it? Also my local Jeep dealer tells me to disconnect the battery when hooking this up if I have to disconnect the ignition switch harness because if I dont it may very well blow the airbags when I re-connect the ignition switch harness. Anybody hear of this? They also suggested disconnecting the radio until all is done. If anyone has experience with this year of Grand Cherokee and remote start systems I would much appreciate any insights or quirks to anticipate. Wiring layouts,diagrams,etc would be great. Thank you all for your time and consideration.

First off,my father has that same truck and I put his on as well as about 30 other grand cherokees. what bypass are you using?? I would suggest the XK531 as it will do locks, arm/disarm and the transponder bypass.

As for programming, you can ground the wait to start input on the scytek brain and it will allow you to have ignition on to program the bypass.

As for disconnecting the battery, i have never had to.

Bypass kit is a model PKU-CH. Got it from the same seller as the 100RS kit.

Disconnecting the battery is contrary to what pro installers do, because with the battery disconnected, you can't test any of the car's wires.

Plus, you'll see when you drop the dash, that the car's ignition wires are in plain sight, and you won't easily get them mixed up with anything to do with the airbag.

I would program that PKU-CH like rudydapinp says:

Do the entire install, including mounting/wiring the PKU-CH. Temporarily unplug PKU-CH. With a key sitting in the ignition, operate the remote starter, to verify that the rest of your install is good. Plug PKU-CH back in.

Then, like he said, temporarily connect the remote starter's wait-to-start input (for diesels) to ground. Now, anytime you turn on the remote starter, it'll power up the ignition (but not crank the starter) until you hit the brake......that's just what you need for programming, easier than messing with jumper wires.

About the factory alarm: PKU-CH is only for the transponder, and will not disarm the alarm. If you remote start it like it is, the alarm will emit one loud honk, which most people find unacceptable.

Three options:

1. Run a wire inside the driver's door, to the disarm wire.

2. Use a relay, activated only during remote start, to interrupt the gray/orange horn wire coming from the BCM (left plug, directly above fuses), so the horn can't be heard.

3. Buy a databus doorlock module. Then, the aftermarket remote can also control the doorlocks and factory alarm. Your wife will appreciate only having to carry one remote that does everything.

I really appreciate the info. Can you elaborate on the disarm wire in the door? My module shows this as the wire:

Pin 10 WHITE/ VIOLET WIRE: Factory Disarm Output (-) 500 mA. The Violet/white wire provides a ground output on disarming and before remote starting to disarm a factory security system. Connect to the wire that requires a ground pulse to disarm the factory security system.

Do I just tap into that wire with this WHITE/ violet wire from the module or do I need to have a relay of sorts? Do I then need to connect to the re-arm wire as well or not?

Again I really appreciate everyone taking the time to answer my questions.

get an XK01 or a JDL-PK module, it will do both transponder and factory alarm/locks.

You could also get an xk531 if you wanted an all in one doorlock and transponder bypass but the xk01will not do both

Im not real concerned with the 2 remote deal and having to use the factory remote for the door locks. I just basically want to try and use the 2 items I have, being the 100RS system and the PKU-CH bypass module. I just need to know what I absolutely have to do to get this setup to work. Im thinking this vehicle has the factory alarm as it has the blinking red light on top of the dash. I basically need to know if I need to tie into the factory arm and disarm wire and how I go about doing so. Do I need relays or anything or just tie in? What is the purpose of the re-arm wiring? Do I need that or just the dis-arm hookup?

As mentioned above by Chris Luongo, remote starting with the alarm armed will cause one loud annoying honk.

The only way to stop that is by using the WHITE/ Violet (-) disarm wire from the Scytek unit and connecting it to the factory disarm wire in the door, or by using a data interface that controls lock/unlock/arm/disarm as suggested above.

It may need to be connected with a relay - you can run the wire to the disarm wire in the door first, connect them and add a relay if the alarm isn't disarming then.

The rearm wire will not do anything to this vehicle unless you are using a data interface, so you can leave it be.

Since the Astra100RS doesn't have a wait-to-start wire you'll have to program the PKU-CH using either a metal non-transponder key, or a jumper to the ignition wire...I'd suggest the jumper since it saves a trip to the hardware store, and you can program the PKU-CH right before you hook the RS to the ignition harness - just jumper the 12v+ and ignition wires in that harness together once you've got it into programming mode with the 2 factory keys; there's no need to jump any other wires.

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

Okay, here is some new info and I dont know if it makes things better or not. I just went out and got in the vehicle and then proceeded to do all the things to exit the vehicle (left drivers window down) and locked it up. I waited for the red light to stop flashing fast and then proceeded to reach in thru the window and start the vehicle with the doors locked. I saw this procedure mentioned in another post to test for alarm. The vehicle started no problem with no annoying honk of the horn. Now in retrospect I cant tell you if the red light went out or not. But it started and stayed running and no annoying beeps. I then went and unlocked the doors with the remote like would be done when coming out to the vehicle and it stayed running. So does that help things or does the remote start make things happen differently? As far as the plain key...that isnt a problem as I can cut it myself at work and the local hardware store has the keys so no big deal. I may even see if my parts runner minds swinging by and picking me one up on one of his runs. LOL. One other thing...is the hood switch a big deal? I mean is it worth installing? I guess Im not fully understanding the purpose. Thanks again folks for your help. I just like to have everything worked out on paper and in my head before tackling a totally new task like this. And you guys have been a big help. Somebody gave me some 3m t-taps to tap into the wires that he uses exclusively and man is that gonna make things so much easier. Plus no big deal to undo what Im doing.

A co-worker of mine, who's done a lot more Chryslers than I have, tells me that some of those don't honk upon startup......so I guess you're lucky, and don't need to worry about it....very cool! So basically, your WHITE/ violet doesn't get connected to anything.

To answer your other questions:

--The purpose of the hoodpin is to disable remote starting with the hood raised, to avoid getting injured while working on the engine.

Many installers don't install them because they rust, don't work, and create customer comebacks.......others install them religiously and speak badly of those who don't.

I'm not here to decide for you, just to answer your question. Your unit might also come with a toggle switch to disable the unit when you're going to service the car.

I'm trying to think of some other things that might help you.......

--Disassembly: Tilt wheel all the way down, unsnap plastic piece below speedometer, remote two Philips screws.

Under the dash, remove two 10mm gold-colored screws. Pull the lower dash panel straight (toward the rear of the car), and it'll unclip.

Behind there is a black metal brace. Remove four more 10mm gold colored screws. Note that these screws are shorter than the other two, and don't mix them up.

--Parking lights: Instead of the resistor, you can tap a wire directly into the parking light relay. Directly above the fuses, you'll see several small relays.

Touch each of them with a screwdriver or other tool in your hand, one at a time, while switching the lights on and off...you'll feel which is the right one. Carefully pry it out.

Configure your Sckytek for a negative parking light output. Carefully wrap a small wire around pin 86 of the relay, then reinstall.

Brake wire: If you rotate the white plastic brake pedal switch slightly, it'll pop out of its mounting, and it'll drop down and give you enough slack to work with.

The brake switch is somewhat fragile, so be gentle with it.....but it's only $12 at AutoZone if anything should happen.

Brain location: Most of the driver's kick panel is empty inside. I like to put the brain sort of above the kick panel, then drop it down so it sort of "falls" inside.....it'll fit in there pretty well, and then a zip tie or two up top, tie it to the car's exisitng wire harnesses.......it'll be out of the way, where it won't have a change of getting caught up in your feet even if the zip tie should break, and it's easy to get to in the future for any possible repairs.

Firewall pass-through. Just above the kick panel, there's a rubber boot with a bunch of factory wires passing through. You should be able to straighten out a piece of coat hanger, sharpen it up a bit, and poke it through there with your wire tightly taped to it.

Or, if you choose to skip the tachometer connection, I find that those vehicles work well on voltage sense, with 1.0 seconds crank time.

Man, just when I think its all figured out and gonna be easy I go and find more questions. The instructions show 5 wires on the starter relay part. It shows pin 5 being hooked to a 25a constant 12v source. Sounded easy.But when I look at the harness there are in fact 2 red wires. They both each have a 30a fuse setup in each. Where do I connect these? Do I have to go to the battery for that? Do I need both? The instructions show like there is only one red wire. Go figure. Cant anyone make clear instructions anymore? Can the antenna be pretty much anywhere in the vehicle or does it have to be seen? This one has the red LEDs and the valet button on the antenna base. I was just thinking of mounting it under the dash near the drivers knee area. Suggestions on these issues?

xcalibr1 wrote:

Man, just when I think its all figured out and gonna be easy I go and find more questions. The instructions show 5 wires on the starter relay part. It shows pin 5 being hooked to a 25a constant 12v source. Sounded easy.But when I look at the harness there are in fact 2 red wires. They both each have a 30a fuse setup in each. Where do I connect these? Do I have to go to the battery for that? Do I need both? The instructions show like there is only one red wire. Go figure. Cant anyone make clear instructions anymore? Can the antenna be pretty much anywhere in the vehicle or does it have to be seen? This one has the red LEDs and the valet button on the antenna base. I was just thinking of mounting it under the dash near the drivers knee area. Suggestions on these issues?

If your manual looks likethis one from Scytek's website, you want to look at the diagram for the relay pack and not for the brain for the connections. Ignore the wire descriptions a few pages earlier - they are completely wrong.

The wires indicated from the brain are the 5-wire ribbon cable which just plugs into the brain and the relay pack and doesn't go directly to the car.

You need both red wires to the relay pack connected - each wire powers 2 of the 4 relays inside, which output your ignition, starter, accessory wires.

Antenna should be mounted on the windshield for the best possible range...usually right behind the rearview mirror works and is inconspicuous.

Also, I would suggest you solder connections instead of t-taps - they may be faster but you won't care when your r/s has issues due to intermittent non-working connection.

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

Yeah, thats what my manual looks like. Would you put that antenna up behind the mirror even since it has the 2 LEDs and the valet button? Where do you hook the 2 red wires for 12v constant for the relay pack? The manuals states 25A source but then each of them has a 30A fuse. If they have that kind of load on each wire do I need to source them from the battery? If so, what gauge of stranded wire would I use as I will need to buy some. I may just use the t-taps to start to get everything working and then go back and solder once its all done. I dont have the confidence that you guys have that do this all the time. posted_image

Chris another thing I noticed is the jumper setting for the park lite relay as far as + or -. The diagram is different on that as well. It looks like I need the (-) setting. Do I move the jumper to the side marked (-) for the negative setting or do I move it to the other side to have the (-) side pin clear for the (-) setting? Because my board has the + and - designations backwards from the diagram in the manual. The manual states....Left Pin + Center Pin = positive Right Pin + Center Pin = negative. But my (-) printed on the board is to the left, so if I put the jumper like they say then the (-) side pin is clear of a jumper. Man, how do you guys install this stuff if the instructions are unclear and sometimes contradictory?

I haven't installed a Scytek unit, or read one of their manuals........but to answer your question, no, no one knows how to write a manual anymore!

They're almost invariably full of spelling and grammatical errors, and explain things incredibly poorly. It's not just because you're inexperienced, most professionals also don't understand the manuals.

I've been trying to offer my services to some of the manufacturers, rewriting their manuals for them, to reduce their return/tech support rates, but I can't seem to get their attention. I think I could save them a lot of money.

As to your other questions:

No need to go to the battery. In the ignition harness you'll find two heavy constant-power wires, a red and a pink/black........connect one of each of the remote starter's wires to each of those.

Like chriswallace said, the remote starter will get poorer range with the antenna buried under the dash. Some users find this acceptable, some don't. Also, if you have to replace a remote, or reprogram a feature, you'll have to take the car apart again to get to that button.

It shouldn't take more than 1 minute to put the antenna on the glass.

Pull off the weatherstripping that runs down the A-pillar. Pull it straight, slowly, and just let it hang there like that.......there's a bunch of sticky stuff on it, but if you pull it out straight, and put it back in straight, without touching it, you won't make a mess.

Tuck the antenna's cable into the gap behind where the weatherstripping was, use a small (non-sharp) tool to tuck it into the small space between the A-pillar and the headliner. Pull down the front edge of the headliner by hand, and tuck the wire up there, letting it hang down behind the mirror.

Unless your instructions say otherwise, the antenna is probably best in the center of the windshield (behind the mirror), with the antenna mast positioned below (or to the side of, if you prefer), the black dot-matrix tint. It has been said (but not proven) that the dot-matrix is metallic, and hurts range.

Chris Luongo once again you've pretty much said it all.

xcalibr1 - the jumper should cover the middle pin and the one marked (-) since you're using it to output a (-) signal.

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

Okay guys I think I have enough info to make a go at this thing. I may try on Saturday if timing suits. I got myself some non-chip keys to try the bypass programming. I think that will be easier for me. I can cut the key myself at work. Im gonna try the tachless mode first with a 1.0 second crank time that was mentioned. I think we determined that an alarm system was not gonna be a problem so that simplifies things. Im gonna use the t-taps at least just to start and get it working even if I have to go back later and solder. I think I only have to locate maybe 7 or 8 wires. The rest is tied to the bypass module and the ground wire and then the hood switch. I may not do the hood switch at least to start out and get it working. I want to keep things at a minimum but I think I will add it since its a safety issue. Thank you all.

I want to thank everyone who gave input into this project. I want to thank everyone as well for their professionalism that is unmatched in any other forum I have ever been in. Nobody belittled me in the least for "not being in the business" as alot of you are. I am not a technician or a mechanic but I do my own work for the most part because I grew up around cars and just have always been that way. I work in a garage but not as a tech and I will do this install at the garage so I have access to tools,etc that I may need that I dont have. I dont look for this install to go smooth but I will putter my way thru and now that I have alot of new info from you guys I have alot better chance of getting it right the first time. Again, thank you all. I will post when I have it done and working or post again if I have a problem with it and need your help again. But either way you will see a post when its done.

Update. I installed the remote start today. It started the first time no problems. I was very pleased with everything until I got home. This is where my inexperience shows. I never checked to see if the heater worked and of course, it doesnt. I never checked that until I got home. The radio works. I hooked into accessory #1 RED / black from the wiring diagram. Can anyone tell me should I have hooked into accessory #2 BLACK/ orange? I have to go back and correct that. I didnt hook the hood switch up and I tied into the hazard light wire so the park lites flash in r/s mode. But everything seems to work great. It shuts down when hitting the brake pedal and it stays on if I hit the brake and have the key in the iginition turned to RUN. It starts right up. Other than the heater issue it works great. I have to run the antenna up to the windshield top as well so right now I dont have alot of range. Its just laying at the front of the floor console. My hands were pretty dirty and I didnt want to mess around at the headliner and A-pillar just yet. Plus I ran out of time. But anyway, if anyone can tell me what wire I need to connect into to have the heat work in R/S mode I would appreciate it. This is a Grand Cherokee Limited with the dual zone auto temp control system.

Hey, not too bad for your first install!

Yes, the BLACK/ orange is what you need to have the climate control system come on during remote start. (That's a pretty common color on other Chrysler products, too.)

Also, the RED / black would at first appear to just power up the radio and other non-essential items, but on the Limited, the air conditioning compressor also won't come on without that wire being powered up.

So, in short:

--The BLACK/ orange needs to see accessory for the climate controls to work at all.

--If you intend to use the remote starter during the summer as well as the winter, the RED / black needs to see accessory as well.

--Again, I'm not familiar with Scytek, but the unit's "Ignition 2" output should offer some kind of adjustment, either in the programming menu or with a jumper. Their install manual might use different terminology, but you want to set it for "as accessory" or "off during crank."

Thanks for the info Chris. Yes I looked and ignition #2 can be set as accessory #2 so that is what I will do. Then she can use it in the summer if she wants. Before your info I was just gonna cut that wire back out and move it the other. But I like the idea of both accessory wires hooked up. You enlightened me on that one as I didnt realize it had 2 accessory outputs.

I didnt use the t-taps on anything. I actually used crimp connectors we use at work. They are good heavy crimp sleeves with heat shrink that has glue inside. I also use a good crimp tool and not a cheapy Wal-Mart type. Now I have to untape everything but I still like the fact that Im tying into another wire instead of cutting and then re-fitting into one I already did. I still cant believe that I didnt test for the accessory circuit or see that it wasnt working before I buttoned everything up. But how do you learn if you dont make mistakes? As long as the mistakes are like that and dont short circuit anything then I can live with it. At first when I tried everything for the first time and I locked the doors I wasnt seeing the theft light flash and I was worried. Found out after bit that the left rear door wasnt latched fully. Latched it and then it was fine. But with all the info you guys gave me it went well. I just never thought to ask about the heater circuit. I just assumed #1 and since my system didnt show an output #2 I didnt think about it. But now I know that thru a setting I do have accessory #2. I will leave an update on that task but it may be next week. I need a crimp sleeve and more wire ties that I dont have here at home. Thanks again.

Whenever you do get around to those connections - you want to use the orange and brown wires from the relay module.

The orange one is accessory only - brown needs programmed to do accessory 2 (it is listed as programming option 14).

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

Okay I went and hooked up the other accessory and got that working now. Now I just need to find time when I have clean hands to run the antenna up and across the headliner. Now I ordered the same system for my 95 Limited but I wont have to worry about the bypass module on that one. Will be a little easier. At least now I understand the system. The wiring shouldnt be too much different. I'll find out. Thanks again everyone.

Not to thread jack, but I just installed an Autopage 662 RS in an '04 Grand Cherokee (using the XK531 programmed as JDL) and it doesn't seem to work properly. When the doors are locked, the horn honks once, and when the ignition is first turned on, the horn honks once and the hazards flash once. I know the bypass is supposed to disarm the factory alarm, but it doesn't seem to. When I arm the RS, the factory LED still flashes. I figured there could be something wrong with the bypass, so I connected a wire with a 460-ohm resistor to the green w/orange wire and tried to trick it, but even that doesn't seem to do anything. What am I missing?

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"Drive it like you stole it"

GMC4x4Guy, what wire do you have connected from the Autopage to the GWR input on the XK531?

I'm going to guess that if you've connected to a disarm wire and not the status output/GWR output or whatever AutoPage calls it, the XK531's not seeing it long enough to disarm the car, and the GREEN/ orange wire isn't getting a strong enough ground to disarm.

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

I connected it to the GWR wire, not the factory disarm wire.

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"Drive it like you stole it"

Ok...easy solution #1 ruled out...I would try manually grounding the GWR near the XK531 and see if the horn still honks. Also, is the GWR programmable to come on right at ignition or a few seconds before? You would probably want it on as early as possible.

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

It's not grounding early enough; that's the problem. Any ideas on a solution? There aren't any other outputs like this one.

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"Drive it like you stole it"

A couple more questions:

1. Do the lock and unlock work perfectly right now? The lock button on your remote should honk as described, flash the hazards once, lock the doors, and fade off the domelight. The unlock button should unlock driver's or all doors depending on how you have it programmed, flash the hazards twice, turn on the domelight and disarm the alarm.

2. Does the transponder portion of the XK531 work properly? The car should start and run immediately after the long annoying horn honk, with none of the factory keys anywhere near the ignition switch.

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

All of that works as you describe, but I don't have the loud annoying horn honk while remote starting.

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"Drive it like you stole it"

Honestly I wouldn't worry about it any further if it's working like that.

The biggest reason for hooking up disarm with remote start on a '99-'04 Grand Cherokee Limited is for the loud annoying horn honk. The alarm disarms when the ignition is powered up, but it goes off for a second with a long horn blast(not a chirp like when arming, it's extremely obnoxious). If you're not having that problem you're in good shape.

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two