separate hood and trunk triggers

I have a viper 690vx installed in a 1964 Ford Falcon.  I have a trigger for the trunk and a trigger for the hood.  There are no lights, etc. in either the trunk or the hood.  I know I can tie the hood/trunk sensor wires together with the blue wire on the brain and this will trip the alarm.  How do I separate the two zones so that the remote will tell me which zone, trunk or hood, was triggered?

If I read this right, you have a hood trigger in the car and a trunk trigger in the car and only 1 input wire from your alarm right? If thats the case you would need 2 diodes to isolate the signals away from each other.

I thought on the DEI alarms they had a blue trunk trigger input and a gray hood trigger input, but I am not familiar with this alarm. I would double check the install manual to make sure.

I think it only has 1 input.  There is no Gray wire.  You are correct as to what I want to do.  If I diode isolate the two sensors, they still merge into the same wire at the brain, so how do I make it so they are separate sensors?

Only the units with a remote starter built in have a gray hoodpin wire.

Unless your unit has any other type of sensor inputs, there's not really much you can do.

If it suits your preference, you could, for example, tie the trunk pin in with the door trigger wire, and connect only the hood to the alarm's trunk input. This way, the interior and trunk would be one zone, the the hood alone would be on the other zone. Or you could do it the other way around, however you want.

But what else do you have for inputs on your alarm? Door trigger, trunk trigger, the shock sensor port.....anything else? Are you using the shock sensor?

Also, if the two (hood and trunk) pinswitches you've installed are aftermarket, and there's nothing else connected to them (you haven't added any lights or anything), and you're connecting them both to the alarm's blue trunk input...........you don't need to diode-isolate them if you don't want to. However, if in the future one of the switches should fail and require adjustment or replacement, having the diodes in there might make it easier to test which switch is the faulty one.