Printer Friendly Forum Posts - 1999 volvo s80 remote start

Going to be installing a clifford rsx 3.5 in my friends 1999 volvo S80 within the next week and when looking at the wiring diagram, i noticed a couple things that i havent seen before.

POWER LOCK       PURPLE / WHITE (TYPE B) @ DRIVERS DOOR MODULE in DOOR

POWER UNLOCK       BLUE/WHITE (TYPE B)    @ DRIVERS DOOR MODULE in DOOR

TACH       See NOTE *3       @ ANY IGNITION COIL
NOTE *3 you can uses any of the following wire colors at the coils for tach: BLUE, BROWN, YELLOW, PINK, PURPLE, or GRAY.

So for power lock and unlock am i going to have to pull off the door panel to find those wires? And for the Tach where exactly is the Ignition Coil going to be and where do i tap the wire?

and Lastly

ANTI-THEFT       TRANSPONDER ANTI-THEFT SYSTEM, REQUIRES 791 BYPASS MODULE AND EXTRA IGNITION KEY       TRANSPONDER @ IGNITION SWITCH TUMBLER

Would the 556uw work instead of the 791?

Thanks for your help guys, does anyone have a different wiring diagram then this? if you could post it that would be great!

The door locks, yes you will need to go into the doors for the lock/unlock wires. enjoy !

For tach signal, i got Light Green @ injector. its more reliable on this car

the 556uw and 791 are both universal bypass kits. the thing is, you must waste a key and place that inside the box.

ok sweet, where exactly is the injector in this car? Im used to the diagram telling me where the wire is instead of telling me a coil or an injector.. Thanks for the help bro!

engineman wrote:

ok sweet, where exactly is the injector in this car? Im used to the diagram telling me where the wire is instead of telling me a coil or an injector.. Thanks for the help bro!

follow the fuel lines, they lead to the fuel injectors. as for a coil, follow the spark plug wires, they usually go to the coil or a pack. the pack would then have wire (looks just like a spark plug wire) going to the coil.

You will have a number of injectors in line, e.g. 6 for a six cyl engine 4 for a four etc. These will be at the top of the engine block. There will be 2 leads into each injector. One colour will be common to all the injectors with 4 or 6 other colours. You want any one of the non-common colours. If you bare one of these and attach a DMM with the black lead to ground and the red to this cable, you should get 6v or more on an AC setting with engine run. I know it's not true AC, it's just the top of the full wave sine curve but it will do.

alright finally going to do this install tomorrow at 8am and i was going through the diagram and noticed for the 12 volt constant they want me to run a wire directly to the battery. is this the only way? and will i need to fuse it withing 12" of the battery just like an amp? there has to be another way...... can anyone post up a wiring diagram this car?

12v permanent feed(s) to ign .

you can always tap into the power lead(s) as howie mentioned at the ignition. If you decide to run a wire to the batt, fuse it properly! but i have used thepower wires at ignition and no problems.

Constant 12 (+) RED @ Relay Cluster Under Dash Area.

alright so i got everything on the alarm installed and its working great, except for the remote start. the 556uw wouldnt work correctly. it acted like there was no key in the ignition, the manual on the 556uw tells me for european cars the antenna ring wont work (and it didnt) and that i needed to cut two wires and bypass the wire for the factory antenna....only problem was that there is no factory antenna, just a plastic piece that wrapped around it and about 6 wires coming off of it. I am thinking i need to use a different bypass module? the diagram i got says i need the 791 bypass module. Also any suggestions on why the car wont stay on even when i hooked up the light green tach wire? i couldnt get the brain to learn the tach..... thanks for your help guys

that plastic piece is the transponder ring. The 791 bypass from JBS tech, is simply a key in the box.

in the manual it told me that the antenna loop would not work for European cars, and that i had to cut into the stock transponder, my question was how do i know which wire is the factory transponder? there are about 6 wires all soldered onto a chip..

tedmond wrote:

that plastic piece is the transponder ring. The 791 bypass from JBS tech, is simply a key in the box.

ok so, according to directechs the 556uw should work with this model car. only issue im having is that i cant figure out which two wires go to the factory transponder. Ive looked everywhere and even looked for tech tips and couldn't find anything.

There is a black tube coming out of the back of the ignition that i suspected might have had wires in it but i was not confident enough to splice into it.

I've done mostly newer Volvos, but the constant power at the ignition switch has always worked fine for me.

I've used the Audiovox AS-TCBM (something like a 555U), with no problems.

You need to use a small zip tie or a piece of electrical tape or something, to make the ring from the bypass module smaller.

It has to be tight around the car's (small) key cylinder for it to work.

I would just hold it there tightly with your fingers, try the remote start, and then after you get it to work, do something more permanent.

only on some cars will you be able to tap into the wires. This car i suggest you keep the ring intact as chris mentioned - keep it tight, so it doesnt slide.

well i tried that but i cant get it to work. If i put the key in the ignition and then remote start it, it will turn on for about 7 seconds and then turn off. I successfully learned the tach wire. So at this point i am stumped. The immobilizer ring is behind the factory transponder, thats the only way it will fit on there like you guys said. Thanks for the help guys!

Well i took it to a local shop that really knows there stuff and had them take a look at it for me and they told me i had to cut into the factory transponder...... but they told me they didnt know which two wires on the harness were the wires for the factory transponder because they couldnt figure it out. does anyone know what wires i would need to cut into? i dont want to blindly start cutting into wires on the factory transponder... if i mess something up here the car wont start.

You really shouldn't need to cut into the car's transponder wiring.

Do you have the ring from the 556U tightly around the car's keyhole? The car's keyswitch is tiny, and the 556U's ring is big......you have to tighten it down.

And are you sure the 556U is wired correctly? Red to positive, blue to ground-when-running from the remote starter, and black to ground, right?

Also, you said that even with the key in the ignition, the remote starter works, but shuts down after 7 seconds. The remote starter should offer some sort of "shutdown diagnostics" or similar feature in the programming menu. That will tell you why it shut down.

What's coming directly from the antenna ring around the key barrel? That's where you should have the two wires, if you use a 556 I would wire it Euro fashion and not use the antenna ring provided. NB 7 secs makes me think you haven't successfully programmed tach OR by-pass is incorrect. Being slightly anal here the ring round the ignition barrel is the antenna and the transponder is remotely located, about the size of a cigarette pack. All the antenna rings I ever met had two wires, you may be confusing this with the key sense wiring. There is a down and dirty way of trying this, carefully remove antenna ring from key barrel, place key in ring, wait a couple of minutes for transponder to settle down and turn off then try your remote start. If it works properly then you know you have found the problem and its the by-pass or its wiring, NB I've never had a 556U fail.

Alright so if i take the factory transponder ring off, the car wont start and if i take the transponder ring off and put the spare key around the factory transponder it does work, so howie, it should be the factory transponder. The transponder around the key barrel does not work, and i did use electrical tape to ensure that the ring was tightly around the barrel. Anybody know how to test which two wires it will be on the factory transponder ring? Im assuming they are data wires and will not display any type of voltage... can i just T-tap them, or do i have to actually cut one of them in half like the instructions say?