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2001 blazer won’t start

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=103065
Printed Date: July 06, 2025 at 10:41 AM


Topic: 2001 blazer won’t start

Posted By: boogie1077
Subject: 2001 blazer won’t start
Date Posted: March 14, 2008 at 2:45 PM

Hi everyone,
I have a 2001 Blazer that won't start(fire) and I'm pretty sure it has to do with the remote start/passlock. I've tried resetting the Passlock by attempting to start it and then leaving the ignition 'on' for ten minutes but it has yet to work. I've read that the security light will come back on (solid), but I've yet to see it...
I'm also not sure if I do that once or three times but nothing has worked so far.

Here's some more info:

The fuel pump relay is working.
It will run on ether so I know it's not lack of spark.
The 'security' light is on. It's solid when the car is locked, flashes when it's unlocked and goes off after a couple of seconds after the ignition is switched to on.
There's a short/bad switch somewhere in the door pin system. It always thinks that there is a door open. (dome light stays on - always) At least there's a 'dome over ride' button..
The factory alarm will activate with the original remote but it never 'trips'.
I don't know what brand the remote start is. I can see it under the dash but I haven't ripped it out yet.
The are two small switches under the dash. One turns the remote start on/off. The other one I assume is a Passlock bypass. I've tried various combinations without success.
I found the Passlock wire(yellow) from the ignition. It was spliced with one end going into a relay then out to the remote start box. I removed the splice and reconnected the original wire. Nothing changed.
There are two relays tucked under the column, I'm going to replace them this afternoon and put the yellow Passlock wire back.

I really don't have the $$ to send it to a dealer, so any help is greatly appreciated.



Replies:

Posted By: KarTuneMan
Date Posted: March 14, 2008 at 2:51 PM
Get under there and find out what type of unit is installed. Won't start with the key... correct? Does it crank and not start, or does not even crank?

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Posted By: boogie1077
Date Posted: March 14, 2008 at 3:02 PM
Right, It cranks but doesn't start.
I'm at work now, I'll check when I get home.




Posted By: boogie1077
Date Posted: March 14, 2008 at 4:54 PM
ok- it's an audiovox pro9175ft. there are two sets of wires that aren't connected - a blue and a green that share a connector and a navy, a black, a maroon/black and a yellow/black that share a connector. the former has 2 possible receptacles, one blue and one white. the later has only one. should these be connected?




Posted By: boogie1077
Date Posted: March 14, 2008 at 4:57 PM
ok- it's an audiovox pro9175ft. there are two sets of wires that aren't connected - a blue and a green that share a connector and a navy, a black, a maroon/black and a yellow/black that share a connector. the former has 2 possible receptacles, one blue and one white. the later has only one. should these be connected?




Posted By: boogie1077
Date Posted: March 14, 2008 at 5:01 PM
sorry about the double post. I'm posting from my phone....




Posted By: brcidd
Date Posted: March 14, 2008 at 10:18 PM
It runs on ether-----so you have a fuel delivery problem--  The security light goes off after a few seconds is perfectly normal operation-- so there is no security problem-  the remote start has nothing to do with your no start condition-- look for 60 psi at your fuel rail pressure port.  I get called on a lot because that &*^^&(^&^ remote starter I installed won't let the truck start- yet it is really a fuel pump problem

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Brcidd - Engineer That Does Remote Starter Installs on the side.





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