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dei 530t problem w/ window and up w/ arm

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=103321
Printed Date: May 06, 2024 at 5:20 AM


Topic: dei 530t problem w/ window and up w/ arm

Posted By: eric3337
Subject: dei 530t problem w/ window and up w/ arm
Date Posted: March 22, 2008 at 6:20 PM

I have a 1999 silverado 1500 w/ a avital 4400 installed.  i am hooking up a dei 530t.  Everything is run into the door and hooked up at the motor.  Drivers door work fine one touch up and down.  Pass door works with one touch down then it will only go up inch by inch.  The drivers window will not go up when armed be it will go up if the truck is running then remote started.  Pass window will only move inch by inch at this point also.  Can you give me some idea how to get the pass window to go up all the way and both windows to go up when armed.... The dipswitch settings are set to high for both and i have tried all the possible settings.   Thanks for your help



Replies:

Posted By: eric3337
Date Posted: March 22, 2008 at 6:21 PM
From prev thread...I have the wires running to the motor on both doors driver and pass

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Posted By: southsidemex23
Date Posted: March 23, 2008 at 7:29 PM
im also getting the same problem its just that only the passenger goes up half way then it will slowwly come to a stop about an inch from that my settings on the module are set to high what exactly should i do to fix the prob? i thought it could of been a ground problem. any help will be appreciated.




Posted By: StealthEs
Date Posted: March 24, 2008 at 10:23 AM
Did you use the ground when running(blue) rather then the ground when armed(orange) ? That will cause it to not go up and arm but up on Rstart.

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Cris




Posted By: Mark Mizenko
Date Posted: March 24, 2008 at 12:28 PM

If it runs up fine with the motor running, but not with the motor off, you probably ran too small of a gauge wiring.  Did you entend any of the 530T's wiring? (of course you did, you have to).   And the "High" setting is'nt necessarly the best, or "more powerful". 

All the 529 and 530'ts I ever put in, worked fine.  I started with the factory default setting (and usually never had to change it), but used 10 or 12 gauge wire for powering the module and motor wire extension.   You can double up on 14 or 16 gauge twin speaker wire, that works great too.  But you have to get ALOT of power to the module, and it'll work great.





Posted By: eric3337
Date Posted: March 24, 2008 at 2:18 PM
I used 14 gauge wire to run the wire to the pass door.  The window rolls down fine when truck is on but when it is off the pass window will only go abit pass vented whereas the driver window will go all the way down.  With the truck off both of the windows will not roll up all the way i have to keeping pressing the switch to get the windows up.  Should i run my power wire directly to the battery or can i wire a relay to get more power to each window motor.  I found out that the drivers window will start to roll up when armed but stops half way up.   it seems like i am not getting enought power to the window motors when truck is off and not enough to the pass moto when the truck is on.  Any help would be great.  The driver side goes all the way down fine with remote but pass only goes abit pass vented.  Thanks for your replies.




Posted By: southsidemex23
Date Posted: March 25, 2008 at 12:25 AM
thats what i was thinking. which was adding a relay so i can get power from the battery so it can have more power to the motor to be able to roll up the pass. side.




Posted By: davngr
Date Posted: March 25, 2008 at 4:43 AM
i like to run power from the batt(fused) for window mods.  also rember the ground is just as important as the power and should be ran inside the car.  check to make sure the pass window isint dirty or out of track, if it's only slightly binding up, the widow will work with the factory switch but you will have problems with mods that use static resistance to sense when the window is closed.

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life is a comedy to think, a tragedy to feel




Posted By: eric3337
Date Posted: March 25, 2008 at 6:59 PM
Can i use 2 530t's to power the windows:  1 mode for driver side 1 for pass side set up like so. For my truck it would be as follows drivers side blue motor wire to blue and blue/black  wire and the brown and BROWN / black to switch side of blue motor wire,  and brown motor wire to green and GREEN/ black and white and WHITE/ black to switch side of that wire and repeat for the pass side with another mod?  

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Posted By: Mark Mizenko
Date Posted: March 25, 2008 at 9:11 PM

You dont need 2 530t's, 1 will do both windows.  The someone else said, have the black Ground wire as short as possible and grounded well INSIDE  the car.  

Where do you have the module, NOT inside the door I hope, thats a bad place for it, it WILL get wet in the door and fail.

And it still sounds like you're not getting enough power to the module.  Run a 12gauge wire (fused) from the battery, or a good constant source...to the module.    And use 12gauge speaker wire, doubled up from the module to the passenger door and I bet everything will work fine





Posted By: eric3337
Date Posted: March 26, 2008 at 4:31 PM
I will give that a shot with the 12 ga. speaker cable.   The module is mounted at the driver's kick panel inside the truck.  I have the ground wire grounded the same place the alarm is should i move it.  the purple  and PURPLE / black wires where should i ground them close to the motor they are for or same place i ground the black wire.  Thanks for the info guys.

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Posted By: Mark Mizenko
Date Posted: March 27, 2008 at 1:25 PM

The Black and Purple ground wires.... all as short as possible, all in the same place is fine.  Just be sure it's a good tight ground.

Use bigger wires and get more power to the motors and you'll be fine. 

On the 530T, you have to "overdo" it with the wire size.  Trust me, I've put ALOT of them in.  I would use 2 pair of 12Gauge speaker wires for the runs into the Pass. door motor.   And like 8Gauge for the power to the 530.

And start with the dipswitches set to Factory/Default/Normal, and go up one, maybe.





Posted By: eric3337
Date Posted: March 27, 2008 at 5:42 PM
I will try to do all of this on saturday if it doesn't rain here in PA.  Thanks for your help Mark




Posted By: chrias
Date Posted: June 19, 2008 at 9:34 AM
Have you had any luck with upgrading the wiring? My Suburban has the same issues. For some reason the rear windows will roll up and down fine but I have issues with the front windows. They seem to have a mind of their own. Once in a blue moon it will roll all the way up on one touch. Very rarely will it stop on the way down but it has happened a few times.




Posted By: gtec
Date Posted: June 20, 2008 at 5:53 PM

iirc, there is an issue with the 530t and this vehicle...i'll look back in my notes but it involved changing out the internal resistors in the 530t for the silverado/tahoe/suburban.





Posted By: chrias
Date Posted: June 20, 2008 at 11:53 PM
I've done the 530t modification and it only helped a slight bit but not enough. It still tends to stop every so often. I have no issues whatsoever with the rear windows.





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