remote window help
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=10336
Printed Date: May 07, 2025 at 7:12 AM
Topic: remote window help
Posted By: shonuff
Subject: remote window help
Date Posted: March 02, 2003 at 10:07 PM
I'd like to install window modules. I'd like to controll 2 windows up and down. I have 2 window controll modules. Would I use one window mod. for each window, meaning drivers window is controlled by one module or would I use one mod. for both windows up and the other for both windows down. My alarm has a 2nd ch. out put and a 3rd ch. output...both prog. with a .8, 10, or 30 second pulse. .8 will not work of course, but 10 seconds is too long. It takes about 5 to 6 seconds to roll up or down. Will this in turn dammage my window motors in they continue to turn for the extra 4 or 5 seconds? Any help would be great! Mark
Replies:
Posted By: jrilla
Date Posted: March 03, 2003 at 9:41 AM
You have to use one module for each direction. Read the instructions on the module. They should tell you how to hook it up. .8 seconds is what you need to trigger the module since the module takes over.
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J Rilla
Owner/Installer
Posted By: shonuff
Date Posted: March 04, 2003 at 7:47 PM
I have a 99 silverado truck. The drivers side window is + (dk blue/brown) and the pass. side is - (lt blue/tan). Will I need to use a relay to controll one of the windows since they are not the same polarity. I already have 2 window modules. The only instructions for the modules are as follows: Green= left motor white=left switch orange= 500ma. activation black= ground red=12 volts blue= right motor brown=right switch I want to hook my 2nd. channel output ( - ) to the orange activation wire for the windows up on one module and the 3rd ch. output for the windows down. For the windows up, since drivers window is + and the passenger is - will I need to wire a reverse poll. relay to make the output from the module match for each side? I'm getting more confused the more I sit and think out it. Thanks Mark
Posted By: floaterr
Date Posted: March 05, 2003 at 6:46 AM
It should be pretty much like my 99, there is no set polarity for the windows. It uses a 5 wire reversal type system where the wire rests at negative until the swtich is pushed and then one of the wires goes positive. Visa versa when you push the other direction.
Basically probe the wire(s) while you push "down" and look for the one that goes POS. You cut that wire then connect the module in between as per instructions. For windows "up" its the same thing you just look for the wire to go POS when you push the "up".
As for the timing. If you have the same module I had it will not take over and requires a NEG pulse the entire time. I'm pretty sure you can set it for the 10 seconds since once the windows bottom out a self reseting ckt breaker stops the current to the motors and won't reset till the NEG is released.
Posted By: shonuff
Date Posted: March 05, 2003 at 7:26 AM
Thanks for the help floater. I took off my drivers door panel and found the wires. The drivers switch wires were a little larger than the wires or the passenge side. What eIse is there to do at 12 am other than tear into your door panel? I cut them and ran 4 pairs of wire back down the door and through the door boot abd back into the cab. For now I just spliced each pair together so my windows will still work but I now have the wires ready for connection. If I remember right I took my test light and checked the drivers door switch. I did get a positive output for up and down for the drivers window. The passenger window was not a positive output. With the drivers door, when I had my test light on the up switch my test light would "light" as long as I held the switch. The light went out as soon as I released the switch and of course the window stopped as well. On the passanger switch, when I had my test light on the up or down wire and hit the switch the window would continue to travel as long as I had my test light on the wire. As soon as I took my test light off the window would stop. I had my test light grounded to the frame. If my modules send out a positive output, it seems like only the drivers window will work since it has a positive output. How would I get my drivers side window to work at all? Any help would be great Mark
Posted By: floaterr
Date Posted: March 05, 2003 at 7:39 AM
ouch. Ok, I lied! I thought maybe you were just hitting the wrong the wire(s). I was actually wondering why the pass windows on most other trucks where not set up with negtive wires then to relays in the other door.
Anyways... I imagine the best bet would be to run a set of wires to the passanger side door. The module will not work on those neagtive trip wires since they are not carrying the motors current.
OR you might wanna listen under the dash for a clicking relay when you work the passanger window from the drivers side. You might get lucky and the relay pack might be on the drivers side. The 5 wire reversal would have been done at those relays. In other words the windows are 5 wire, electrically they HAVE to be. The question is where did the factory install the relays to convert it to negative pulse... Then connect the module there.
Again DO NOT hook up the module to the NEG wires connect to the pass switch on the drivers door.
Posted By: shonuff
Date Posted: March 05, 2003 at 8:42 AM
Thanks for the clairfication...that was really starting to require me to think too much. Anyway, looks like it's gonna be another night in the driveway under the stars.........I think I should be able to knock this out tonight and be done! I hope....... I'll let you know the results. Mark
Posted By: 2vmodular
Date Posted: March 05, 2003 at 6:53 PM
the factory auto-down module for the front drivers window is located inside the drivers door switch assembly.
Posted By: shonuff
Date Posted: March 05, 2003 at 7:22 PM
Well I've hooked up the down module. The passenger window goes down like a champ, but the drivers moves about half an inch and stops. I know it has an auto down for it but how or what do i tap into to make it work? Another issue I have seen is when the windows are going up they seem to be going very slow, almost gettng stuck at one point. My wires are not in the way, could this be because the wire is too thin running from my connections to the modules? I used what looked like 18g or 16g wire, do these need to be larger to handel the current? Any help would be great...it's cold outside, about 25F but I gotta finish this tonight if at all possible. I'm gonna put another layer of clothes on. Mark
Posted By: 2vmodular
Date Posted: March 05, 2003 at 8:48 PM
You need to bypass the factory autodown module. Either open up the factory switch and solder some wires directly to the switch outputs, or disable the factory switch and install a pair of momentary switches in it's place.
Posted By: shonuff
Date Posted: March 05, 2003 at 9:03 PM
How would I fix this problem? Can the problem be solved by some sort of jumper wire or is the problem in the switch? Can I purchase a switch to fit that doesn't have auto down? If it's in the switch, how do I get it to work correctly? I have doubled the wire guage in an effort to see if it was just not letting enought current get to the motors. Haven't tested it yet. To be continued......... Mark
Posted By: shonuff
Date Posted: March 06, 2003 at 10:57 AM
If I need to add a reley to the motor to help the windows up is this the correct way: 86 input from module 85 ground 30 to window motor 87 12v 87a 12v They roll down fine so I don't think I'll need any relays for down. Thanks Mark
Posted By: cpgoose
Date Posted: March 06, 2003 at 11:44 AM
um, is your first question gone? I don'tsee the original problem you posted. If they're having problems going up, you might just need to adjust the dipswitches on the window module (if it has them).
Posted By: shonuff
Date Posted: March 06, 2003 at 11:56 AM
there are no dipswitches on the window module. on my last post I was asking if that was the correct way to wire a relay to boost the current from the window module with a relay to help the windows going up. I would like to be able to still control my windows with the switches and when I use my remote I would like to hook up a relay to give the motor more current to help it go up. Currently they will travel up but sometimes stall or travel really slow. Thanks Mark
Posted By: cpgoose
Date Posted: March 06, 2003 at 11:57 AM
D'oh....my mistake. My pc was screwed up. I tried to delete my post, but that didn't work either  Ahhh, computers. ------------- Q: What's the best nation in the world?
A: Donation! Donate to the12volt.com
Posted By: shonuff
Date Posted: March 08, 2003 at 2:00 PM
I hooked up a relay for the windows up. That really made a difference, but has created another problem. My output from the window module is going to 86 of the relay. 85 is ground. 87 is 12v and 30 is going the the motor. With the relay hooked up the window will not roll up with the switch. I think it's because the output from the module (86)isn't connected the wire going to the motor (30). Can I splice of from the input from the module and go to 87a? If I was thinking right, that would colplete the circuit so the window would operate from the switch on the door. I still haven't figured out how to bypass the auto down function for the drivers door. Any input would be great. Thanks mark
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