2008 hyundai santa fe se remote starter

There is no need whatsoever for that car to unlock before remote starting. I have done dozens of them.

It should be (and can be) corrected.

I'm not sure how technical you are, but I will try to explain it:

--Inside the driver's kick panel (by your left foot), are all the wires that come inside the car, from the driver's door.

--There's a wire that makes a ground when the key is turned in the outside of the door. This disarms the factory alarm.

--There's another wire, "unlock detection," that rests as a ground at all times when the doors are unlocked......and goes dead when the doors are locked.

--For the aftermarket system to disarm the factory alarm, and unlock the doors, the installer needs to provide TWO ground pulses on BOTH of these wires, at the SAME time.

(This duplicates turning the key twice in the driver's door.)

--The aftermarket remote starter (you didn't say what brand) has two outputs:

A. one we call "factory disarm," which makes an output before remote starting, AND when the unlock button is pressed on the remote

B. another we call "unlock," which, as you might imagine, makes an output ONLY when the unlock button is pressed on your remote.

--Your installer shouldn't be using the "factory disarm" for anything. It's not necessary.

(Hyundai vehicles automatically disarm their alarm during remote starting.)

--The installer should use two diodes, to split the unit's "unlock" output........so now he has two "unlock" outputs.

(Diodes are described in a link at the top-left of this page, if you're interested in learning about them.)

--The installer should then take the outputs from the two diodes........ connect one to the "disarm" wire in the car, and the other to the "unlock detection" in the car.

--Then, in the remote starter's programming menu, set the remote starter for "double pulse unlock."

(This, as you might guess, makes the remote starter send out two unlock pulses, every time you press the unlock button on the remote.)

When all is done, the doorlocks will make no response during remote start.

When you press "unlock" on the aftermarket remote, the car's "disarm" and "unlock detection" wires will receive the desired two pulses each, and the car will unlock.

--The installer may disconnect, or may leave in place, the feature he added to lock the car every time it remote starts.

If you always lock the car religiously, that feature isn't necessary. If you sometimes forget the car unlocked, it could be a nice feature to add a little security. Your call on that one.

Cool. Thanks a lot. I will contact the installer and have them correct this...

Chris, Is that the same as the document #1300 from DEI for the Azera door lock intergration? Where you need to run a relay to break the connection along with needing 4 diodes.

or is it
Disarm No Unlock with ign, acc, and key sense

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The wire I'm test'n isn't doin' what it's supposed to be doin'... I am so glad I printed that tech sheet, with the wrong info.
Do it right the first time... or I might have to fix it for ya

techman93,

I actually helped them with that Azera diagram. I think they didn't quite understand what I said, because they have unnecessary diodes in there.

(The way they have it set up will work fine, it's just maybe 30 seconds of extra unneeded work. The second wire in their diagram already gets a ground from the dome supervision wire, and adding the unlock wire through the diode is redundant.)

On the Santa Fe, no, it's different. You don't need relays, and don't need to go into the door.

It would at first seem that you would need to pulse the (key cylinder) disarm wire, and the (rocker switch) unlock wire, but it doesn't work.

What's needed is to pulse both the (key cylinder) disarm wire, and the (gray) unlock detection wire.

The gray unlock detection wire isn't listed in the tech sheet. It's in the same plug with the doorlock wires. When the doors are unlocked, it rests as a ground. When the doors are locked, the ground goes away.

Both wires need to see a double pulse. The (rocker switch) unlock wire isn't used.

If the unit you're installing has programming options for double-pulse disarm, and double-pulse unlock...........you could connect your disarm to the car's disarm, and your unlock to the car's unlock detection wire. This would save you from having to configure diodes.

If you don't have double pulse disarm, instead just split your unlock wire with two diodes, set for double pulse unlock, and connect the two diodes to the two wires in the car.

You don't need to worry about disarm before remote start.

Keysense isn't needed either.