1992 chevrolet silverado door locks?

I have a 1992 Chevrolet Silverado pickup that I want to hook the door locks up to it.  I already installed a Rattler remote start keyless entry combo. I just want to hook the door locks up. Are the locks positive or negative trigger, and what type of locks are they? (2 wire, 5 wire etc).  Any help is appreciated. Thank you.

1992 Chevy Silverado C1500 and C2500
Power Unlock     WHITE          (+)     POSITIVE TRIGGER     
Power Lock     LIGHT BLUE     (+)     ABOVE GAS PEDAL AT FACTORY RELAYS

1992 Chevy Silverado C3500
Power Unlock     BLACK          (REV)     OR BLK/RED REVERSE POLARITY     
Power Lock     LIGHT BLUE     (REV)     DRIVER'S KICK PANEL OR LEFT DASH SPEAKER

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The wire I'm test'n isn't doin' what it's supposed to be doin'... I am so glad I printed that tech sheet, with the wrong info.
Do it right the first time... or I might have to fix it for ya

If the truck came with factory keyless, then they will be positive. If it did not come with factory keyless they are 5 wire.

I've only done one of those trucks, but I remember reading that you can remove the left-front dash speaker, and get the wires more easily.

On the truck I did, it worked well for me, but it took a little trial and error to figure out which side of the wire was the "switch," and which was the "motor."

Chris Luongo wrote:

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On the truck I did, it worked well for me, but it took a little trial and error to figure out which side of the wire was the "switch," and which was the "motor."

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Cut the Lock (or unlock) wire you are testing, whichever side of the wire has voltage when you press the lock (or unlock) button, that is the switch side. Pretty straight forward.

The truck has factory power door locks. So that means that these are positive trigger door locks then?

They are probably going to be 5 wire. If the truck has factory keyless entry, you will find the relay pack just above the gas pedal. Positive trigger, blue and black.

Probably no keyless on that 92 though, so you can easily get at the door harness when you take out the drivers side dash speaker. In between the insulation and the firewall, you will feel the harness, grab and pull, lots of wire there. In that harness, you will have a large orange or ORANGE / black that is +12V, a large blue and a large black. The easiest way I have found to find the switch side and motor side (yeah, this sounds hack, but, it works!) is to bare a bit of the 12V, then cut and strip say the lock wire. Touch one of the cut sides to the 12V. Big spark, no lock or unlock, you just found the switch side. The other side is your motor. You can meter it, sure. But, one side of the cut will show voltage when you hit lock, the other side is going to show voltage when you hit unlock. So which is the switch side??????? The touch to 12V is the down and dirty easy way, and always gets me the motor side without terribly much hassle.

On that truck, from what I remember, the passengers side of the cut if you do the locks up top is the motor. Still would check it though.

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Wherever I go, that is where I end up......

If you cut the lock wire and put your meter on the switch side, it will show 12v+ when you push the lock button in the car. The Motor side will not show voltage when you push the switch. Same goes for the unlock wire. Just like every other wire you want to tap into, you MUST test these wires with a DMM before tapping into them.

NEVER just tap into to an unknown wire. You are asking for trouble.

You will get 12V on the other side...... Say you are on the lock wire. Cut it. 12V appears on one side when you press lock, yes, as that is the switch side. Now, press unlock. 12V magically appears on the other side of the cut as the switch completes the circut to ground.

Neat, huh? Ever get a GM that the lock and unlock are reversed?

Use a meter to find lock and unlock before you cut them. Yes. After, still easy to do a quick pulse to 12V through a fuse if you wish to verify switch and motor.

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Wherever I go, that is where I end up......