Breaking down Armed-disarmed

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=1035
Printed Date: July 15, 2025 at 5:58 PM

Topic: Breaking down Armed-disarmed

Posted By: kleenaccord45
Subject: Breaking down Armed-disarmed
Date Posted: May 30, 2002 at 8:25 AM

I am hoping to get a better understanding of HOW-TO
have a "channel" do two different functions based on the unit being armed or disarmed. Laymans terms = when armed, channel 2 does... when disarmed channel 2 does... I am thinking the (-) when armed output is going to have to be incorporated but i am not sure how to go about this.

Replies:

Posted By: Big Dog
Date Posted: May 30, 2002 at 9:02 AM

Hey KLEENACCORD,

Basically what you want is extra channels from your system. Go to the relay section of this site and look for "Special Applications" then "One Channel to Multiple Outputs".

Also I use a system which works for me requiring a couple of relays and caps which allows me to do drivers door priority unlock with standard lock/unlock wires. But first of all, take a look at the above link and see what you're getting into before we go farther. posted_image

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Prepare your future. It wasn't the lack of stones that killed the stone age.

Posted By: kleenaccord45
Date Posted: May 30, 2002 at 9:19 AM

I am looking for the (-)when armed to "act" as a toggle.
how does this sound?

Take channel two(-) validity output, convert it to +12v
for relay use.
Use (-) when armed to serve as the Switch for the coil and my outputs would be 87, and 87a.

It looks good in my head.

Posted By: kleenaccord45
Date Posted: May 30, 2002 at 9:34 AM

In my head it looks like this
30- 12v (validity from channel 2)
85- 12v (validity from channel 2)
86 - gnd when armed from alarm
87 - output to 12v device (armed)
87a -output to 12v device (dis-armed)

Since the relay will only see 12v vaildity on 30, I am thinking that it will give 12v to 87a since the coil has yet to be energized, once energized by the addition of gnd to 86 the output would toggle to 87.... correct?

Posted By: Big Dog
Date Posted: May 30, 2002 at 10:31 AM

Hey kleenaccord45,

In theory your idea should work but in practice is a different matter. For example if the relay changes states too quickly then 87a might not had enough time to send the signal to the device. It's all a matter of how much of a delay there is on the ground-when-armed and how fast the electrons travel in the coil of the relay to be technical. Try it and see. posted_image

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Prepare your future. It wasn't the lack of stones that killed the stone age.

Posted By: AlvinWang
Date Posted: May 30, 2002 at 3:03 PM

Hey Big Dog

Just for kicks, can you post your relay / cap setup for doing the driver priority unlock with standard lock / unlock wires? I saw your reply to me in the other forum regarding what I need to do for my 2001 Yukon. I spent a little time looking at the factory service manual which has detailed schematics for the Yukon and it looks like I might be able to do the driver priority unlock without having to resort to cutting wires or going into the door. I'd like to give your setup a try when I go to put in my alarm next weekend.

Thanks much!

Posted By: Big Dog
Date Posted: May 31, 2002 at 2:37 PM

Hey AlvinWang,

I'd be surprised if you could do drivers door priority without cutting wires. This doesn't include of course guys who add relays to the OEM remote and activate it with the aftermarket keyless systems.

My idea is too complicated to explain in text form and unfortunately I can't attach the diagram to this post ( maybe I should suggest it in the new ideas section ). Instead I sent you an email according to your profile with the document attached in PDF format. posted_image

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Prepare your future. It wasn't the lack of stones that killed the stone age.